The Most Epic Itinerary For An 18-Day Road Trip To Georgia

Georgia is the country that truly stole my heart, offering an unparalleled sense of freedom and adventure that a road trip through this impressive country provides. I loved the vibrant capital city of Tbilisi, the mouthwatering authentic cuisine, the locally produced wines, and the ancient cathedrals, churches, and cave cities. The stunning natural beauty of the Caucasus mountain range and the warm, welcoming Georgian people with their rich culture and traditions only add to the allure. Because of its small size, a road trip to Georgia is the best way to explore the country. In this post, I’m excited to share my ultimate 18-day road trip itinerary for Georgia, ensuring you won’t miss a thing!

Practical Info For A Road Trip To Georgia

Renting a 4WD car is essential, as it allows you to explore every corner and discover the best spots this beautiful country has to offer. Personally, I enjoyed renting a car from GSS Car Rental.

And to get the most out of your trip, make sure to buy this amazing travel guide by Ountravela. It features the best off-road routes in the country and provides detailed descriptions on how to navigate them, ensuring you experience the ultimate adventure on your road trip to Georgia.

Day 1-2: Tbilisi

Tbilisi, the lively and vibrant capital of Georgia, is home to over a million people—one-third of the country’s entire population. The city beautifully juxtaposes its old and new parts, creating a harmonious blend of history and modernity. The picturesque Old Town preserves Tbilisi’s rich history with its quaint, colorful houses, wooden pillared balconies, iconic sulfur baths, and the 17th-century Narikala Fortress.

However, Tbilisi is far from stagnant. The 87-meter tall Holy Trinity Cathedral, built in 2004, stands as a testament to the city’s modern growth. The Tbilisi Peace Bridge, another contemporary symbol, adds a touch of modernity, while the cable cars swiftly whisk you up the hill, offering breathtaking views of this dynamic city.

As evening falls, Tbilisi comes alive with its marvelous restaurants and vibrant nightlife. Savor the flavors of delicious Georgian cuisine (Khinkali and Kachapure are my favorites) in one of the many charming tavernas, and pair your meal with a glass of locally produced wine. After dinner, dive into Tbilisi’s raw nightlife, renowned for its thriving underground techno scene. The city’s energy and eclectic mix of experiences make for unforgettable nights.

Day 3: David Gareja to Sighnaghi

Pick up your 4WD car in Tbilisi and prepare to hit the road. The first day of your journey is bound to be one of the highlights, so make sure you start early and are well-rested.

Your destination is the ancient and remote David Gareja cave monastery complex near the border with Azerbaijan. This incredible site includes wine cellars, houses, churches, and beautifully preserved frescoes. Remarkably, some monks still reside there, maintaining the monastery’s spiritual essence.

Head south from Tbilisi to Rustavi, a former Soviet industrial town, and then venture inland. Use Google Maps and Maps.me for navigation, and make sure to download the maps beforehand for offline use.

The smooth asphalt of the main road soon gives way to dirt tracks and open fields. You’ll drive through a semi-desert landscape with endless views, a no man’s land marked only by the tracks of previous travelers. Just when you start to question your navigation skills, the holy monastery of David Gareja appears before you. It’s astonishing to think that people still live here in such remote conditions. The drive from Tbilisi to David Gareja takes about two to three hours. Savor every moment of this extraordinary journey, as it is truly remarkable.

Visit the Lavra Monastery and then hike up the hill to explore the Udabno Caves. This scenic circular route will captivate you with its history and views. Plan to spend at least two to three hours soaking in the tranquility and beauty of this remarkable site.

After exploring the complex, head to your next destination: Sighnaghi. Instead of following Google Maps’ route through Tbilisi, take the road to Udabno towards Sagarejo (the შ 172) and then join the main road (S5) from there. This scenic route will offer a more direct and picturesque drive to the charming town of Sighnaghi.

For more amazing off-road routes, check out Ountravela’s guide book for the best tracks in the country! This book allows you to get the absolute best out of your trip, so don’t regret not buying it.

Day 4-5: Kakheti (Sighnaghi)

A steep road with numerous U-turns leads you to Sighnaghi. While many villages in the area are dilapidated, Sighnaghi stands out, fully renovated and brimming with charm. Often compared to a Tuscan village, this enchanting town sits atop a hill overlooking the expansive Alazani Valley. On the horizon, you can glimpse the first snowy peaks of the Caucasus.

Sighnaghi’s picturesque streets and delightful atmosphere make it one of the most attractive towns in Georgia. Although it only takes a few hours to explore, it serves as the perfect base for discovering the Kakheti region. Whether you’re wandering its quaint streets or planning day trips, Sighnaghi is a must-visit destination.

Kakheti is Georgia’s renowned wine region, and no visit is complete without stopping by one of its many wineries. Take the time to explore the picturesque sights in the Alazani Valley and immerse yourself in the local viticulture. Additionally, reserve a day for hiking in the breathtaking Lagodekhi National Park, where stunning landscapes and lush greenery await your discovery.

Day 6: Military Highway

The Military Highway is a winding mountain road that traverses the Caucasus from Tbilisi, Georgia, to Vladikavkaz, Russia. Stretching 208 kilometers, there is only one word to describe this journey: epic. Along the way, you’ll encounter historic towns and castles, serene lakes, steep mountain roads, and the rugged peaks of the Caucasus Mountains.

Start your day early in Sighnaghi, as you have a full day of driving ahead. The journey is packed with incredible sights, including the former capital of Georgia, Mtskheta, the turquoise waters of the Zhinvali Reservoir, and the historic Ananuri Castle. You’ll also pass the Gudauri ski resort and the Soviet-Georgia Friendship Monument. Don’t miss the breathtaking Jvari Pass, the highest point of the route at nearly 2,400 meters above sea level. Your destination for the day is Stepantsminda, which will serve as your base for exploring the region. For a detailed guide, check out my full post about the Military Highway here!

Day 7-8: Kazbegi (Stepantsminda)

Stepantsminda lies in the heart of Kazbegi National Park, high in the Greater Caucasus and near the border with Russia. Nestled at the foot of Mt. Kazbek, the third-highest mountain in Georgia at an awe-inspiring 5,054 meters, Stepantsminda offers stunning views. From the village, you can see the silhouette of the peak and one of the country’s most famous attractions: the Gergeti Trinity Church.

While Stepantsminda itself might not be particularly picturesque, it boasts numerous guesthouses and serves as the perfect base for exploring the breathtaking Kazbegi region. The combination of natural beauty and convenient accommodations makes it an ideal spot for adventurers.

Some must-sees in the area include the iconic Gergeti Trinity Church, the exhilarating hike to the Gergeti Glacier, and the stunning Truso Valley (which is also featured as an off-road track in Ountravela’s travel guide). Make sure to check it out for an adventurous route. Other great options near Stepantsminda include visiting Juta, exploring the dramatic Dariali Gorge, chasing waterfalls, and even paragliding.

Plan to spend at least two days in Kazbegi to capture the highlights. But if you have more time, extend your stay to fully immerse yourself in all the activities this incredible region has to offer. There’s plenty to keep you busy!

Day 9: Drive via Gori to Vardzia

Today, you’ll drive from Stepantsminda to the cave city of Vardzia, passing through the city of Gori—a journey of approximately 400 kilometers. Your route retraces nearly the entire length of the Military Highway. At Mtskheta, you’ll turn right and head toward Gori.

Gori, the birthplace of Joseph Stalin, features a fascinating and controversial museum dedicated to him, located next to his childhood home. The museum idolizes Stalin, largely ignoring the darker aspects of his history. This feels particularly dubious given that Gori was bombed by Russia in 2008. Despite its contentious nature, the museum is worth a stop if you’re interested in this complex piece of history.

From Gori, continue your journey through the lush forestry area of Borjomi, a fantastic spot for rafting. Drive onward to Akhaltsikhe, where you’ll leave the main road and venture into the dramatic wilderness of the valley leading to Vardzia. The road winds alongside the Mtkvari River, threading through narrow, dark red canyons and vibrant green hills. This stunning valley is also featured in Ountravela’s guide book, offering detailed descriptions and routes for your adventure.

Find a place to sleep in this mystical valley (I highly recommend Guesthouse Mtkvari), so you can visit Vardzia early in the morning, beating the daytrip crowds from Akhaltsikhe and Borjomi. This route and serene stay set the stage for an unforgettable visit to the cave city.

Day 10: Vardzia

The ancient cave city of Vardzia is an unmissable highlight in Georgia. This sacred city, constructed in the 12th century, once housed more than 2,000 monks in at least 400 rooms, 13 churches, and 25 wine cellars. These rooms are interconnected by a complex tunnel system, spread across 13 floors. All in all Vardzia is a fascinating labyrinth of history and spirituality.

When you finish exploring this magnificent place, which will likely take a few hours, use the rest of the day to see more sights in the valley. Visit the soothing hot springs, the historic Tmogvi Castle, and the impressive Khertvisi Fortress. You can drive up to Khertvisi Fortress with a 4×4, though the road is in very bad shape. Exercise caution, as a flat tire is a real possibility. (Of course, this route is also included in the travel guide by Ountravela!).

Day 11: Drive via Rabati Castle to Batumi

Drive back through the picturesque valley to Rabati Castle, a medieval fortress originally built in the 9th century. Despite its ancient origins, the castle appears almost new due to a comprehensive renovation in 2011. While it may feel like a somewhat chaotic collection of different buildings and parts, it remains a fascinating sight to explore.

From Rabati Castle, you have two options to reach Batumi. The first route is via the შ 1 road through Khulo. It’s in poor condition and only advisable with a 4WD car and in good weather. The faster route is to take the S8 through Borjomi, then the E60 through Kutaisi, and finally the E70 to Batumi. This option offers a smoother and quicker journey.

Day 12-13: Batumi

Batumi is an intriguing blend of Las Vegas glitz and a touristy beach town, but on a much smaller scale. The beaches might not be the best, but the city’s unique atmosphere sets it apart from the rest of Georgia. It feels almost surreal, offering a stark contrast to the country’s other destinations. If you’re looking to enjoy some beach time, Batumi is the place to be.

Day 14-15: Svaneti (Mestia)

I saved the best for last: the Svaneti region, often referred to as “the roof of Europe.” This mystical and ancient land is the highest permanently inhabited region in the Caucasus and Europe. Home to the Svan people, who have their own distinct culture and language, Svaneti offers a truly unique and enriching experience.

Your first stop in the Svaneti region is Mestia, a somewhat touristy town where the paved road ends and adventure begins. Dedicate a day to hiking to the Holy Cross and Koruldi Lakes or to the Chalaadi Glacier. I opted for the hike to the Holy Cross and Koruldi Lakes. It was both the most beautiful and toughest hike I’ve ever undertaken. The continuous 360-degree views of the Caucasus mountain peaks are simply breathtaking, making every challenging step worthwhile. For the best off-road routes in the area, check out Ountravela’s guide book.

Day 16-17: Svaneti (Ushguli)

Outside the town of Mestia, the road deteriorates, and the number of travelers dwindles. Those who venture beyond Mestia, including yourself, often head to the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Ushguli. Ushguli is a community of four ancient villages nestled near the foot of Georgia’s highest mountain, Mt. Shkhara. The highest village in Ushguli, situated at 2,100 meters above sea level, holds the title of the highest permanently inhabited settlement in Europe. The drive from Mestia to Ushguli takes about two hours, and a 4×4 vehicle is essential for this rugged journey.

An amazing off-road drive from Ushguli to the Shkhara Glacier awaits. Here you’ll traverse rivers and pass by glaciers, making for an exhilarating journey. Horse riding is another fantastic way to explore the Svaneti region. Traditionally, it has been the primary method of transportation here. Hence, you can rent a horse with a guide in almost every village. This offers a truly immersive experience, allowing you to explore the stunning landscapes and ancient paths just as the locals have for centuries.

Day 18: Back to Tbilisi

There are two ways to drive from Ushguli to Tbilisi: the easy way and the hard way. The easy option is to drive back to Mestia, then travel via Zugdidi and Kutaisi to Tbilisi. This route can be completed in one full day, taking approximately 9.5 hours excluding stops.

The hard-but-beautiful way is to take the Zagar Pass from Svaneti. This unpaved mountain pass reaches an elevation of 2,620 meters above sea level, so a 4×4 is essential. If you’re an experienced driver looking for a challenge, I highly recommend taking the stunning Zagar Pass. This route will take you through Lentekhi and Kutaisi to Tbilisi.

And that’s it, we’re back where we started! For me, this road trip to Georgia was the adventure of a lifetime. I hope it will be the same for you.

Budget For a Road Trip to Georgia

As you can read in my Top 10 Budget Travel Destinations, Georgia is incredibly affordable. I spent around $200 per week, which included staying in private double rooms, enjoying excursions such as paragliding, and eating out at least twice a day. So that’s less than $30 per day! I also negotiated a great deal for renting a Toyota 4Runner at GSS Car Rental in Tbilisi. I highly recommend them for their excellent car quality and service.

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If you have any questions about this road trip itinerary in Georgia, feel free to ask. I’m happy to help! Or if you have some additions, let me know! I definitely want to go back one day. For more insights, make sure to check out my other Georgia posts.

This article was last updated July, 2024.