Kyrgyzstan 2-Week Itinerary: Epic Self Drive With Rooftop Tent

I fell utterly, hopelessly and completely in love with Kyrgyzstan. What a wonderful country. The unknown adventure called my name and in the summer of 2023 I finally booked a plane ticket to Kyrgyzstan. Together with my boyfriend, a 4×4 car and a rooftop tent, I drove for 2 weeks through jaw-dropping, rugged landscapes. We conquered glaciers at 4500 meters in altitude and drove over the sandy beaches of one of the largest alpine lakes in the world. In this blog I share our itinerary, so you can do the same.

Practical information Kyrgyzstan

Want to know more about what to expect from this impressive country, where to rent a decent car or what to pack? Then read this blog first. That said – my itinerary is definitely not the best, as Kyrgyzstan has so much to offer that two weeks are never enough. My itinerary did offer a nice variety of landscapes and activities though. We would have liked to have visited a lot more places, such as Jyrgalan, Lake Köl-Suu and Sary Mogol. All the more reason for us to go back! During our trip in Kyrgyzstan, we followed many off-road routes from Ountravela’s guide book. This book contains the most epic off-road routes of Kyrgyzstan and is a must if you are going to drive by yourself. In this blog I refer multiple times to several routes in the book. And one last tip: never book accommodation online. Prices are much higher online, so just call in advance or show up at their door and ask for the price.

Travel itinerary Kyrgyzstan

Day 1 – 2: Bishkek

Bishkek is not a romantic city, albeit a fascinating one. You could opt to spend only one day in Bishkek if you arrive early in the morning. We spent two days in the city to start our road trip well rested and to do some extensive shopping at the Osh bazaar.

On the first day you can’t miss the grotesque, concrete Ala Too Square with the State History Museum. The wide Victory Square is also a fine example of Soviet architecture, which is interesting to see for sure. When you’ve seen enough concrete for one day, you can take a walk or chill out in Panfilov Park or Oak Park. You also want to visit Osh bazaar. Here you’ll find literally everything you can think of and it is the perfect place to get all the supplies for your road trip. If you still have time to spare, spend a day hiking in the nearby Ala Archa National Park.

Need some time to recover? Then Sierra Coffee is the place to go. They have several branches in the city and we went there a bit too often in just two days time. Nothing beats an iced americano on a hot day though!

Sleeping: We slept in Silk Road Guesthouse. A decent guesthouse on the outskirts of the city center. Not very special, but okay for one night.

Day 3: Bishkek – Burana tower – Konorchek Canyon

Yes, time to hit the road! Pick up your car at your rental agency and drive off into the unknown. Near Bishkek you find the Burana Tower, a well-known stop for tourists with a lot of history. Pay a visit to this place if you are in the area, but don’t go out of your way to see it.

After the Burana tower it’s time for the first off-road route: route 4 from the guide book (see ‘practical information’) to the Konorchek Canyon. An off-road gravel road winds its way through imposing red and orange rock formations rising on either side of the road. As you progress, the road gets worse and worse and the views get better. Make sure to stop at designated viewpoints along the route to fully appreciate the grandeur of the Konorchek Canyon.

We slept in our rooftop tent with panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and snow-capped mountains. At sunrise we were greeted by cheerful wild horses with no one else around. It was absolutely magical, and that was only the first night of the road trip!

The better-known alternative to the Konorchek Canyon is Skazka Canyon, also known as Fairytale Canyon. We went to both canyons and Konorchek is clearly the winner. We encountered nothing or no one on the way to Konorchek and in the canyon itself, and the scenery was just as impressive. Skazka is near the main road and hence gets a lot more visitors.

Sleeping: Wild camping.

Day 4: Konorchek Canyon – Bokonbaevo

The next morning we continued our way to the end of route 4, the heart of Konorchek Canyon. The silence around us was broken only by the occasional rustling of the wind and the echoes of our footsteps as we explored the rocky terrain on foot. After lunch and a short hike, we drove back the same route. Via the main road we eventually made our way to the village of Bokonbaevo. The village is located on the southern shores of the Issyk-Kul Lake, the second largest alpine lake in the world after Lake Titicaca in South America. It’s 180 kilometers in length and 60 kilometers in width.

Sleeping: Bel-Tam Yurt Camp. A yurt camp for tourists, but that just means the yurts are a lot more comfortable than regular ones. So definitely not a bad thing. Here you can do your laundry, take a hot shower, have a cold beer and chat with other travelers. The food and coffee were also top notch (both quite unique in Kyrgyzstan). A lovely, comfortable place after a night of camping in the mountains.

Day 5: Bokonbaevo – Fairytale Canyon – Barskoon

Right next to Bokonbaevo you find route 5 from the guide book: The Forgotten Rivers. An off-road route across the sandbanks of Lake Issyk-Kul, winding through soft hills that used to be rivers once.

After this detour we visited Skazka Canyon, also known as Fairytale Canyon. A geological masterpiece, with towering sandstone formations that have been sculpted by wind and water over centuries. The rocks take on fantastical shapes, creating an illusion of a fairytale world. Imposing castles, mythical creatures, and abstract sculptures emerge from the earth, inviting visitors to let their imaginations run wild. The canyon’s vibrant colors are a result of different mineral deposits in the rocks, painting the landscape with shades of red, orange, and pink. Plan your visit to coincide with the golden hour, and you’ll be treated to a magical display as the setting sun bathes Skazka Canyon in a warm glow. And it’s also a good time to avoid the heat and the crowds.

Sleeping: In a giant yurt with electricity and a hot shower in the garden of Barskoon Guest House. This guesthouse is located conveniently along the route towards the Barskoon waterfall, which you’ll visit first thing in the morning.

Day 6: Barskoon Waterfall – Kum Tor Gold Mine – Kara Say

The road between Barskoon and Kara Say via the Kum Tor gold mine is one of the most impressive roads I have ever driven – in my life. As you leave Barskoon, the road winds its way through the Terskey Ala-Too Range, offering panoramic views of snow-capped peaks and lush valleys. Stop for a quick hike through the forest to the Barskoon waterfalls. Next stop: the middle of nowhere.

Prepare for a mix of gravel and dirt roads that meander through the mountains. The journey is punctuated by river crossings and occasional encounters with local herders guiding their livestock. Continuing your expedition, the road leads you further into the heart of Kyrgyzstan’s wilderness. What makes this journey truly special is the sense of remoteness and the feeling of being on a road less traveled. It’s no man’s land with tundra’s and glaciers as far as the eye can see (route 7 from the guide book).

Some practical tips: stock up on food and water, ensure that your vehicle is suitable for off-road conditions and be mindful of weather conditions.

We set up our rooftop tent on a vast tundra at 4500 meters altitude, a place recommended for wild camping. Our camp was close to a river with nothing but mountain peaks, glaciers and desolate tundra landscape around us. Indescribably beautiful. Perhaps because of the lack of things to see. It was -5 degrees during the night and my sleeping bag wasn’t made for that whatsoever, but well worth it.

Sleeping: Wild camping.

Stuck in a swamp at 4500 meters altitude

Until it went wrong. Very wrong. During the night melting water from the surrounding glaciers came down and we woke up in a swamp. The car was stuck. Immovable. After 2 days of plodding, crying and despair, we found our salvation after walking several kilometers. A man from the hamlet of Kara Say was going to sell his horse in Barskoon, the village we came from. There was reception there. We could find help there. The man took us with him in his rickety truck. It took us 7 hours to cover 70 kilometers, driving some of the worst roads I’d ever seen. But that didn’t matter, because we were saved. We were alive! After hours of driving we arrived in the village and found a group of 4 local heroes and a 6WD truck. We drove all the way back into the mountains and our car got towed out of the swamp. Moral of the story: take a satellite phone or SOS device with you. You need to be able to reach someone if things go wrong. Don’t be like us.

Day 7 – 8: Kara Say – Karakol

After such an adventure, we really needed some time to recover. We drove to Karakol. We did our laundry, drank cocktails and ate pizza. We celebrated life and took it easy. Unfortunately we didn’t see a lot of Karakol, although we did pay a visit to the interesting wooden Holy Trinity Cathedral.

Sleeping: We slept in Duet Hostel & Hotel with a lovely garden and parking in front of the door. Wouldn’t necessarily recommend it, but it’s a decent place for a night or two.

Day 9: Karakol – Engilchek

After Karakol it’s time to head back into the mountains again. A couple of hours of driving through magnificent mountain passes takes you to Engilchek. An abandoned, former Soviet ghost town on the border with China at the foot of one of the highest mountain peaks in the world (Pobedy Peak at 7439 meters altitude).

A vibrant town in Soviet times, now stands frozen in time. It’s eerily quiet. Abandonded houses and buildings line the roads, giving a sense of the town’s former glory. A handful of families still live there. It’s raw. It’s apocalyptic. And it has a quirky feature: you can drive on the old runway of the airport!

Sleeping: Wild camping or in the only homestay in Engilchek. There’s not really a point of reference I can give for finding the homestay, but if you knock on the door or ask people, you’ll be fine. After all, only one street is inhabited (on the right as you drive into the ‘town’).

Day 10 – 11: Engilchek – Cholpon Ata – Naryn

Two long days in the car followed as we made our way from Engilchek to Naryn. First, we drove from Engilcheck to Jyrgalan for a short visit and eventually found a hotel along the northern coast of the Issyk Kul lake. The next day we drove to Naryn in one stretch. In Naryn you can unwind at the four-star Grand Khan Tengri hotel. After nights of wild camping or sleeping in yurts, this bed is a welcome change. And so is the breakfast, for that matter. I’d say go for it!

Sleeping: Somewhere on the northern coast of Issyk Kul and hotel Grand Khan Tengri in Naryn.

Day 12: Naryn – Tash Rabat – Baetov – Song Kul

You’ll drive from Naryn to Tash Rabat in approximately two hours. Tash Rabat is a well-preserved caravanserai and important historical site of the ancient Silk Road. The exterior is built from large, rough-hewn stones, giving it an imposing and fortress-like appearance. The interior features a central dome, supported by a network of arches, creating a unique and atmospheric space that has served various purposes over the centuries. Originally constructed as a resting place for travelers and merchants along the Silk Road, Tash Rabat also served as a monastery at different points in its history. The caravanserai played a crucial role in facilitating trade and cultural exchange between Central Asia, China, and the Middle East. Visiting Tash Rabat is like stepping back in time.

The scenery surrounding Tash Rabat is nothing short of spectacular. Towering peaks, dusted with snow, pierce the sky on either side of the road. The grandeur of the Tien Shan range provides a majestic backdrop, inviting intermittent stops to soak in the breathtaking views. There are several incredible off-road routes to drive in this region. We chose routes 17 and 20 from the guide book, which included the MELS mountain pass (named after Marx, Engels, Lenin and Stalin). Magnificent natural scenery that you really don’t want to miss. After the last hairpin bend, you’ll drive towards the tranquil Song Kul Lake. A pristine alpine lake nestled in the high Tian Shan mountains. This high-altitude jewel is surrounded by expansive meadows, rolling hills and traditional yurts. Nomad herders bring their livestock to graze in the fertile meadows. The nomadic way of life is very much alive here.

Sleeping: Wild camping or stay in one of the yurt camps at Song Kul.

Day 13: Song Kul – Chon-Kemin

You can’t leave Kyrgyzstan without riding a horse. Although you can do this almost everywhere in Kyrgyzstan (such as Jyrgalan of Song Kul), we chose to ride in the Chon-Kemin valley. A lush, green region in the north with rolling hills along the winding Chon-Kemin River.

Sleeping: We stayed at Guest House Jekshen in the village of Shabdan. They can arrange horses for you and give you a tour of the area. The male host is fluent in English. Very valuable to learn more about the country, and extra special to do so on a horseback ride through Chon-Kemin National Park.

Day 14: Chon-Kemin – Bishkek

And that’s it! Two weeks are done and dusted. From Chon-Kemin you drive to Bishkek in a few hours, where you can return the car. If – like us – you rent the car from Nick (say hi to him for me, more info in this blog), you can probably sleep in his house the night of your return.

As mentioned before, there are several great places not included in this itinerary. You simply can’t visit all the amazing places Kyrgyzstan has to offer in two weeks time. Personally, I’d love to visit Köl-Suu next. Hopefully I will manage to go there this year (2024) when we drive from the Netherlands to Singapore.

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Check out everything you need to know before you travel to Kyrgyzstan in this blog post. Any questions? Let me know in the comments and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible!