Kyrgyzstan 2-Week Itinerary: Epic Self Drive With Rooftop Tent

I fell utterly, hopelessly, and completely in love with Kyrgyzstan. This remarkable country captured my heart and imagination in ways I never expected. The call of an unknown adventure echoed in my soul, and in the summer of 2023, I finally answered. I booked my plane ticket to Kyrgyzstan. Joined by my boyfriend, we embarked on a two-week journey through jaw-dropping, rugged landscapes in a 4×4 car with a rooftop tent. Our adventure took us to towering glaciers at 4,500 meters above sea level and along the sandy shores of one of the world’s largest alpine lakes. The sheer beauty and diversity of Kyrgyzstan left us in awe at every turn. In this blog, I’ll share our detailed itinerary so you can embark on this incredible journey yourself.

Rent a car and travel guide Kyrgyzstan

Curious about what to expect from this mesmerizing country, where to rent a reliable car, or what essentials to pack? Dive into this blog for all the details. That said, while my itinerary offered a delightful mix of landscapes and activities, it’s far from exhaustive—Kyrgyzstan is brimming with so much beauty that two weeks barely scratch the surface. Places like Jyrgalan, Lake Köl-Suu, and Sary Mogol remain on our must-visit list, giving us all the more reason to return!

We rented a Toyota Sequoia Platinum, complete with a roof tent and camping gear, from Nick, and we can’t recommend him highly enough. To connect with him, just drop him a message on WhatsApp (+996 551 915 920). And please send him my regards! Nick’s communication is very fast and his car is absolutely top-notch, perfect for tackling Kyrgyzstan’s rugged terrain.

During our adventure in Kyrgyzstan, we explored numerous off-road routes from Ountravela’s guide book. This treasure trove of epic off-road routes is a must-have for anyone planning to drive themselves. Throughout this blog, I’ll reference several routes from the book to help guide your journey.

One last tip: never book accommodation online. Prices tend to be much higher, so it’s best to call ahead or simply show up and ask for the rate. Happy travels and enjoy your Kyrgyzstan adventure!

Travel itinerary Kyrgyzstan

Day 1 – 2: Bishkek

Bishkek may not exude romance, but it is undeniably intriguing. If you arrive early in the morning, one day can suffice, but we opted for two days to kick off our road trip well-rested and to indulge in some extensive shopping at the bustling Osh Bazaar.

On your first day, you can’t miss the imposing, concrete spectacle of Ala Too Square, home to the State History Museum. Victory Square, another grand example of Soviet architecture, is equally fascinating. Once you’ve had your fill of these concrete giants, take a leisurely stroll or relax in the lush greenery of Panfilov Park or Oak Park.

The Osh Bazaar is an absolute must-visit. It’s a bustling market where you can find literally everything you need, making it the perfect spot to stock up on supplies for your journey. If you have extra time, escape the urban hustle with a day of hiking in the stunning Ala Archa National Park, just a short drive away.

Need a breather? Sierra Coffee is your oasis. With several branches scattered throughout the city, we found ourselves there a bit too often over our two-day stay. But hey, nothing beats an iced americano on a scorching day!

Where to stay in Bishkek

We stayed at Silk Road Guesthouse. It’s a decent spot on the outskirts of the city center—nothing extraordinary, but perfectly fine for a night’s rest.

Day 3: Bishkek – Burana tower – Konorchek Canyon

Yes, it’s time to hit the road! Pick up your car from the rental agency and embark on an adventure into the unknown. We rented a reliable Toyota Sequoia Platinum, complete with a roof tent and camping gear, from Nick. If you want to know more, please feel free to send him a message on WhatsApp (+996 551 915 920 – and say hi for me!). Just outside Bishkek, you’ll find the Burana Tower, a popular stop for tourists steeped in history. It’s worth a visit if you’re in the vicinity, but don’t go out of your way to see it.

After visiting the Burana Tower, it’s time for your first off-road adventure: Route 4 from the guide book (see ‘practical information’) to Konorchek Canyon. This off-road gravel path winds through dramatic red and orange rock formations that rise majestically on either side of the road. As you continue, the road conditions deteriorate while the views become increasingly breathtaking. Be sure to stop at designated viewpoints along the route to fully appreciate the grandeur of Konorchek Canyon.

We spent our first night of the road trip in our rooftop tent, with panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and snow-capped mountains. At sunrise, cheerful wild horses greeted us, with not another soul in sight. It was absolutely magical, and that was just the beginning of our adventure!

While the better-known alternative to Konorchek Canyon is Skazka Canyon, also known as Fairytale Canyon, we visited both and Konorchek emerged as the clear winner. We encountered no one on our way to Konorchek or within the canyon itself, allowing us to fully immerse ourselves in the breathtaking scenery. In contrast, Skazka, being close to the main road, attracts a lot more visitors.

Day 4: Konorchek Canyon – Bokonbaevo

The next morning, we set out to complete Route 4, making our way to the heart of Konorchek Canyon. The silence was profound, broken only by the occasional rustle of the wind and the echo of our footsteps as we explored the rugged terrain. After a leisurely lunch and a short hike, we retraced our path back to the main road and continued our journey to the village of Bokonbaevo. Nestled on the southern shores of Issyk-Kul Lake—the world’s second-largest alpine lake after South America’s Lake Titicaca—Bokonbaevo offered a serene escape with the lake stretching 180 kilometers long and 60 kilometers wide.

Where to stay at Issyk-Kul

For our overnight stay, we chose the Bel-Tam Yurt Camp. While it caters to tourists, this only means the yurts are far more comfortable than traditional ones, which was a welcome change. At Bel-Tam, we were able to do our laundry, take hot showers, enjoy a cold beer, and swap stories with fellow travelers. The food and coffee were exceptional, a rarity in Kyrgyzstan. It was a lovely, comfortable haven after a night of camping in the mountains.

Day 5: Bokonbaevo – Fairytale Canyon – Barskoon

Right next to Bokonbaevo, you’ll find Route 5 from the guide book: The Forgotten Rivers. This off-road adventure takes you across the sandbanks of Lake Issyk-Kul, winding through gentle hills that once cradled ancient rivers.

After this scenic detour, we ventured to Skazka Canyon, also known as Fairytale Canyon. This geological masterpiece boasts towering sandstone formations sculpted by wind and water over centuries. The rocks form fantastical shapes, creating an enchanting illusion of a fairytale world with imposing castles, mythical creatures, and abstract sculptures emerging from the earth. The vibrant hues of red, orange, and pink are due to various mineral deposits in the rocks, painting the landscape in a breathtaking palette. Time your visit to coincide with the golden hour, and you’ll witness a magical display as the setting sun bathes Skazka Canyon in a warm glow—a perfect moment to avoid the heat and the crowds.

Where to stay in Barskoon

For the night, we stayed in a giant yurt equipped with electricity and a hot shower at Barskoon Guest House. This charming guesthouse is conveniently located along the route towards the Barskoon Waterfall, which you’ll visit first thing in the morning. It was a perfect blend of comfort and adventure, setting the stage for another day of exploration.

Day 6: Barskoon Waterfall – Kum Tor Gold Mine – Kara Say

The road between Barskoon and Kara Say via the Kum Tor gold mine is one of the most impressive roads I have ever driven – in my life. As you leave Barskoon, the road winds its way through the Terskey Ala-Too Range, offering panoramic views of snow-capped peaks and lush valleys. A quick hike through the forest to the Barskoon waterfalls is a must before continuing your journey to the middle of nowhere.

Prepare for a mix of gravel and dirt roads that meander through the mountains. The journey is punctuated by river crossings and occasional encounters with local herders guiding their livestock. Continuing your expedition, the road leads you further into the heart of Kyrgyzstan’s wilderness. What makes this journey truly special is the sense of remoteness and the feeling of being on a road less traveled. It’s no man’s land with tundra’s and glaciers as far as the eye can see (route 7 from the guide book). This expedition through uncharted territory will leave you in awe of nature’s raw beauty and the spirit of adventure.

Into the wild

Before you hit the road, make sure to stock up on food and water, ensure your vehicle is well-equipped for off-road conditions, and always stay mindful of the weather.

We set up our rooftop tent on a vast tundra at 4,500 meters altitude, a recommended spot for wild camping. Our camp was nestled close to a river, surrounded by nothing but towering mountain peaks, vast glaciers, and an expansive, desolate tundra. The beauty of this place is indescribable, perhaps because of its stark simplicity and the absence of civilization.

The night brought temperatures plummeting to -5 degrees, a true test for my sleeping bag, which wasn’t designed for such cold. Despite the chill, the experience was beyond worth it. The serene isolation and the raw, untouched beauty of our surroundings made for an unforgettable night under the stars.

Stuck in a swamp at 4500 meters altitude

Until it went wrong. Very wrong. During the night, melting water from the surrounding glaciers transformed our campsite into a swamp. We woke up to find our car hopelessly stuck, immovable in the mud. After two days of plodding through the muck, crying in despair, and feeling utterly hopeless, we found our salvation by walking several kilometers towards the hamlet of Kara Say.

There, a man was preparing to sell his horse in Barskoon, the village we had come from. We had reception there, and we could finally get help. He kindly offered us a ride in his rickety truck. The journey took seven grueling hours to cover just 70 kilometers on some of the worst roads I’ve ever seen. But none of that mattered, because we were saved. We were alive!

After hours of bone-rattling driving, we arrived in the village and found a group of four local heroes and a 6WD truck. They agreed to help us and drove all the way back into the mountains to tow our car out of the swamp.

So always take a satellite phone or SOS device with you on remote adventures. We now use the Garmin Inreach Messenger, which I really recommend. It’s small, easy to use and has all the features you need. You need to be able to reach someone if things go wrong. Don’t be like us.

Day 7 – 8: Kara Say – Karakol

After such a harrowing adventure, we desperately needed time to recuperate. Our destination? The town of Karakol. Here, we indulged in the simple pleasures of life—chilling in the sun, sipping on cocktails, and devouring delicious pizza. It was a much-needed celebration of life and a chance to take things slow.

While we didn’t explore much of Karakol, we did visit the intriguing wooden Holy Trinity Cathedral, a striking piece of architecture that added a touch of culture to our relaxation time.

Where to stay in Karakol

We stayed at Duet Hostel & Hotel, which featured a lovely garden and convenient parking right in front. While it might not be a top recommendation, it’s a decent spot for a night or two, offering a comfortable place to rest and recharge.

Day 9: Karakol – Engilchek

After our restful stay in Karakol, it was time to venture back into the mountains. A few hours of driving through breathtaking mountain passes led us to Engilchek, an abandoned former Soviet ghost town on the border with China, nestled at the foot of Pobedy Peak, one of the highest mountain peaks in the world at 7,439 meters.

Once a vibrant town during Soviet times, Engilchek now stands frozen in time. The eerie silence is palpable as you wander through abandoned houses and buildings, remnants of the town’s former glory. A handful of families still reside here, adding a touch of life to this raw, apocalyptic landscape.

One quirky feature of Engilchek is its old airport runway, which you can actually drive on! It’s a surreal experience that adds an unexpected twist to your visit, making this ghost town an unforgettable stop on your journey.

Where to stay in Engilchek

When it comes to accommodation in Engilchek, you have two options: wild camping or staying at the only homestay in town. Finding the homestay might seem tricky, but don’t worry—just knock on doors or ask the locals for directions. The inhabited area is easy to find, as only one street is still lived in (on the right as you drive into the ‘town’). Whether you choose to camp under the stars or experience the unique hospitality of the homestay, Engilchek offers a truly unforgettable stay amidst its hauntingly beautiful surroundings.

Day 10 – 11: Engilchek – Cholpon Ata – Naryn

Two long days in the car awaited us as we journeyed from Engilchek to Naryn. Our first stop was Jyrgalan for a brief visit before we found a hotel along the northern coast of Issyk Kul Lake. The following day, we drove straight through to Naryn. In Naryn, we treated ourselves to some luxury at the four-star Grand Khan Tengri hotel. After nights of wild camping and sleeping in yurts, this comfortable bed was a welcome change. And the breakfast? Absolutely delightful. I highly recommend it!

Where to stay in Naryn

We spent our nights somewhere on the northern coast of Issyk Kul and at the Grand Khan Tengri in Naryn.

Day 12: Naryn – Tash Rabat – Baetov – Song Kul

Driving from Naryn to Tash Rabat takes about two hours, leading you to a remarkable historical gem of the ancient Silk Road. Tash Rabat, a well-preserved caravanserai, stands as a testament to centuries of trade and travel. The exterior, built from large, rough-hewn stones, gives it an imposing, fortress-like appearance. Inside, the central dome is supported by a network of arches, creating a unique and atmospheric space that has served various purposes over the centuries.

Tash Rabat also functioned as a monastery at different points in its history. This caravanserai played a crucial role in facilitating trade and cultural exchange between Central Asia, China, and the Middle East. Visiting Tash Rabat is like stepping back in time. It offers a glimpse into the rich tapestry of history and culture that once flowed through these ancient routes.

The scenery surrounding Tash Rabat is nothing short of spectacular. Towering peaks dusted with snow pierce the sky on either side of the road, with the grandeur of the Tien Shan range providing a majestic backdrop. This breathtaking landscape invites frequent stops for photos and to absorb the breathtaking views.

There are several incredible off-road routes to explore in this region. We opted for routes 17 and 20 from the guide book, which included the MELS mountain pass—named after Marx, Engels, Lenin, and Stalin. The natural beauty along these routes is magnificent and should not be missed.

After navigating the final hairpin bend, we found ourselves driving towards the serene Song Kul Lake. This pristine alpine lake, nestled high in the Tian Shan mountains, is surrounded by expansive meadows, rolling hills, and traditional yurts. Nomad herders bring their livestock to graze in the fertile meadows, keeping the nomadic way of life very much alive.

Where to stay in Song Kul

For accommodation, you can choose to wild camp under the stars or stay in one of the yurt camps at Song Kul. Both options offer a unique and immersive experience in this breathtaking high-altitude jewel.

Day 13: Song Kul – Chon-Kemin

You can’t leave Kyrgyzstan without experiencing a horseback ride. While you can saddle up almost anywhere in the country, such as Jyrgalan or Song Kul, we chose to ride in the Chon-Kemin valley. This lush, green region in the north features rolling hills and the winding Chon-Kemin River, providing the perfect backdrop for an unforgettable adventure.

Where to stay in Chon-Kemin

We stayed at Guest House Jekshen in the village of Shabdan. They arranged the horses and offered a tour of the area. The male host speaks fluent English, making it easy to learn more about the country. Exploring Chon-Kemin National Park on horseback added an extra layer of magic to our journey, creating memories we’ll cherish forever.

Day 14: Chon-Kemin – Bishkek

And just like that, our two-week adventure has come to an end! From Chon-Kemin, it’s a short drive back to Bishkek, where you can return your rental car. If you rented from Nick, you might even be able to stay at his house for the night. Drop him a message on WhatsApp (+996 551 915 920) for any inquiries; and please send him my regards. Also make sure to get the guide book to get the most out of your trip.

As I mentioned earlier, there are countless amazing places in Kyrgyzstan that we didn’t have time to visit. You simply can’t see it all in just two weeks. Luckily I had the opportunity to go back to Kyrgyzstan in 2024 on our road trip from the Netherlands to Singapore.

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Some links in this post are affiliate links. Check out everything you need to know before you travel to Kyrgyzstan in this blog post. Any questions? Let me know in the comments and I’ll get back to you as soon as possible!

This blog was last updated July, 2024.