Overland Journal Day 117: Border Crossing Into China

Overlanding China with our own car marks the biggest hurdle of our expedition, requiring extensive preparation well before our arrival. In addition to a visa, self-driving with a foreign vehicle means we also need a Chinese driver’s license, Chinese license plates, and a local guide accompanying us every hour of every day. The process began months ago back in the Netherlands, and now – on July 17, 2024 – our convoy of fellow travelers gather at the border to cross into China. What awaits us is the most extensive and bizarre border procedure we’ve ever encountered.

Overlanding China with Your Own Car

China is one of the major obstacles for overland travelers, and it’s easy to see why. Many overlanders from Europe decide to turn back rather than face the complications and expenses at the Chinese border. The requirements to drive through China are steep: in addition to mandatory visas, travelers need a 24/7 guide, who sits in the back seat and monitors every move. Foreign vehicles must be outfitted with Chinese license plates, and drivers must acquire Chinese driver’s licenses, which requires assistance from a specialized company.

Our first quote for arranging all this was staggering—€25.000,- just for the required documents and guide, not including daily costs like food, fuel, and tolls. This price came from a Dutch company that serves as a middleman for local Chinese agencies, and it was clear we had to look for alternatives. Determined to make this journey work, we entered the world of overlanding through China, hoping to find a more affordable way to turn this expedition into a reality.

Preparations for Our China Overland Adventure

We soon discovered we weren’t the only ones with the bold plan to drive through China in our own car—a community of adventurous travelers had formed around the same idea. To share the guide’s cost, convoys were created to cross together under one guide’s supervision. We were in! Back in the Netherlands, we began searching WhatsApp and Facebook groups for others planning to pass through China around our dates. Luck was on our side, and we were able to find other overlanders to form a group and share the costs.

Our convoy partnered with Drive China, a local agency that handled all the logistics and paperwork. The price? Just €1100, – per person—a far cry from the first quote we received. Together with our convoy and guide, we gathered at the border on July 17, 2024, all set for our overlanding China adventure.

Here’s what Drive China arranged for us:

• Letter of invitation for our Chinese visa
• Chinese driver’s licenses
• Chinese license plate for the car
• Temporary import of our vehicle
• Car insurance
• Vehicle inspection
• Security deposit guarantee
• Full-time guide

The Overlanding China Convoy Sets Out

On July 17, we’re lined up at the Chinese border with our convoy, braced for whatever the journey ahead might bring. We’re joined by an incredible lineup of fellow travelers: Adam, a French-Argentinian biker circumnavigating the globe solo; Miss Chin, a determined Malaysian who’s driven her campervan from her homeland all the way to Iceland and is now on her return journey; and the French duo Oscar and Hugues, driving a classic Renault 4L from France to Cambodia, where they plan to donate it to charity. It’s a diverse bunch, united by one goal: to drive 7000 kilometers across China from Kazakhstan to Laos in 27 days, taking in as many sights as we can along the way.

Crossing the Border with Foreign Vehicles

But first, we have to get through the border procedures. Knowing this can be a grueling process—some people report taking up to 3 days to cross—we ready up for delays. After an intense inspection on the Kazakh side, where customs confiscate Miss Chin’s rock collection, we roll into the no man’s land between the borders.

Trouble strikes early. As we proceed, Adam’s motorcycle suddenly stalls, refusing to start. Chinese customs officers force us to continue without him, and we watch, helpless, as Adam vanishes from our rearview mirror.

Fortunately, our guide Joe is on standby, and we connect over WhatsApp. With no English spoken here and signs only in Chinese characters, Joe’s help is invaluable. After some initial confusion and stern glances from uniformed officials, Joe arrives, guiding us through the procedures. Charelle and Hugues, passengers, are sent to the customs hall, while Marcel and the other drivers guide the vehicles through a separate inspection. Meanwhile, customs officers push Adam’s motorcycle forward, hopefully moving us closer to clearing the border.

Crossing the Border as a Passenger

In the passenger hall, Charelle and Hugues join the line for passport control when an older Chinese lady with a child suddenly tries to cut in front. After waiting so long, Charelle’s patience is thin; she steps forward, reclaiming her spot. Hugues, proving to be the gentleman, lets the lady pass. But the moment he does, others follow her example, creating a wave of people pushing past him. Hugues ends up clearing customs nearly an hour and a half after Charelle. We’re officially in China! Now… where are our cars and drivers? Despite waiting for hours, there’s no sign of them or the convoy.

Crossing the Border as a Driver

This crossing is a lesson in patience. The car undergoes visual inspection after visual inspection—five times in total. The customs officers are stern and unyielding, insisting that we remain silent and seated during each check. Finally, they confiscate a few “unwelcome” items, including an onion and some boiled eggs. Thankfully, our hidden drone and world map showing Taiwan as a separate country go unnoticed, saving us from further hassle.

With the initial inspections complete, we move on to phase two: vehicle disinfection. Marcel volunteers, slipping into a white HAZMAT suit and strapping on a backpack filled with disinfectant. He meticulously sprays every inch of each convoy vehicle, as even the slightest missed spot would mean starting over. After 30 minutes of diligent spraying, he finally earns two thumbs up from the team of disinfection officers.

On to stage three. We wait for another hour as customs officers struggle to take our fingerprints—they don’t seem to help many foreigners here. Once that’s sorted, we proceed to the X-ray scanner. We line up the convoy vehicles for the scan and search for staff to get things started. In the control room we find an attendant fast asleep, who, startled awake, hurries to activate the scanner. Once the scan completes, he tells our guide that only one vehicle is allowed through at a time. This creates a logistical nightmare with a traffic jam forming behind us. However, with patience and maneuvering, we eventually manage. Somewhere in the process, we even figure out how to get Adam’s engine running again MacGyver-style.

Finally, by late afternoon, each vehicle finally clears the X-ray scanner, officially entering China. Charelle and Hugues, having waited hours on the curb next to the X-Ray, reunite with the convoy. We are back together, ready to tackle the next steps: obtaining a Chinese driver’s license, getting a license plate, and passing the vehicle technical inspection. We’re far from done.

Technical Inspection and Car on Fire

Our car clears the technical inspection with ease; the inspectors are genuinely impressed with the car’s braking capabilities. The Renault 4L of the French team and Miss Chin’s van, however, run into a few minor issues, requiring repeated inspections. Adam’s motorcycle isn’t inspectable at the border at all, so it’s scheduled to be hauled to an inspection station 100 kilometers away the next day.

After hours of tests and waiting, all cars are approved, Adam’s bike is set for inspection, and we’re handed our Chinese driver’s licenses and license plates. We help Adam restart his bike, ready to head to our hotel, practically tasting the cold beers awaiting us. But just as we turn around, we spot thick clouds of black smoke coming from the Renault 4L. Fire!

The French team jumps into action, showcasing some impressive teamwork. In seconds, they have the fire extinguisher out, tools ready, and battery disconnected. As it turns out, they’d practiced a plan for exactly this scenario—a move that may have saved their car. The fire, traced to faulty wiring under the dashboard for the USB ports and radio, is put out before it spreads. With a good scare behind us, we finally drive as a convoy to the hotel for our very first night in China.

Entering this immense country feels like entering a completely different, modern world. We settle into a bustling barbecue restaurant, toasting with rounds of cold beers late into the night. If today is a sneak preview of our China adventure, it’s bound to be an unforgettable journey. What… a… day.

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