Overland Journal Day 125-142: Xi’an, Chengdu and Ancient Towns (China)

We reach a major expedition milestone: Xi’an, the end of the historic Silk Road and the easternmost point of our journey. From here, we head south, passing the world-famous Terracotta Warriors, restored “ancient towns”, and baby pandas in the metropolis of Chengdu. The arid deserts of the north give way to lush tropical forests, endless tea fields and pouring monsoons as we reach the border of Laos. Welcome to the jungle.

Xi’an: End of the Silk Road and Terracotta Warriors

We arrive in Xi’an, the sprawling metropolis marking the end of the historic Silk Road—or its starting point, depending on your perspective. It’s also the easternmost point of our entire expedition, a monumental milestone for us. From here, we shift gears and head south toward Singapore. But first, we visit one of China’s most iconic sites: the Terracotta Warriors.

Standing in the presence of this world-famous wonder with our Dutch car parked outside feels surreal. What seemed impossible months ago has become our new normal.

Inside the main hall housing the terracotta warriors, we’re overwhelmed by the sheer number of local tourists. The temperature soars past 40 degrees, adding to the intensity. The dense crowd makes it feel unsafe, and the oppressive heat leaves us lightheaded. We snap a few quick photos before retreating to smaller, quieter halls. Here, we can truly admire the warriors.

It’s astounding to think that over 2200 years ago, thousands of intricately detailed, life-sized warriors were sculpted and arranged in battle formations for an emperor’s afterlife. Of course, China has turned this marvel into a spectacle. Visitors can even get AI-generated photos of themselves as terracotta warriors. At this point, we’re not even surprised anymore.

The Ancient Towns of Langzhong, Dali, Lijiang, and Shaxi

After leaving Xi’an, we head south for the first time in ages. The journey takes us through China’s impressive infrastructure—kilometers of elevated highways and brilliantly lit tunnels cutting seamlessly through nature. But the drivers, especially the truckers, are less impressive. At one point, a fuel truck veers into our lane without warning. Despite honking, the truck keeps moving, leaving only centimeters between us and disaster. Charelle narrowly avoids a collision, and by the time we reach our hotel in Langzhong that evening, we’re still shaken.

The hotel is a surprise—a tranquil oasis with a serene courtyard, a library, and ornate, wooden cottages. It’s a far cry from our usual budget roadside stops. Langzhong, we learn, is one of many “ancient towns” in China that have been restored and transformed into tourist hubs.

We visit several of these towns, including Langzhong, Dali, Lijiang, and Shaxi. Each offers a glimpse of traditional Chinese village life with beautifully preserved architecture. But they are also packed with local tourists. With China’s growing economy, domestic tourism has boomed, and it shows. Souvenir shops line every street, and the crowds can make it hard to see the buildings at all. Many structures are so meticulously restored that their authenticity feels lost.

Despite this, we find ourselves embracing the chaos. The energy, the endless photo-taking, and the sheer enthusiasm of Chinese tourists are infectious. If you can’t beat them, join them. By diving into the madness, we begin to appreciate this uniquely Chinese experience. One thing is certain: the local tourism industry is thriving like never before.

“We’ll Sleep When We Get To Laos”

Our journey through China feels like a whirlwind, with highlights rushing past like scenes outside the window of a high-speed train. There’s barely time to process all we experience. The motto remains fitting: “We’ll sleep when we get to Laos.” Each day brings more chaos, larger crowds, fresh impressions, and a stronger bond with our travel companions. It’s shaping up to be the pinnacle of our expedition—an adventure we’ll recount for the rest of our lives.

Lingering longer in China isn’t an option, either. As we mentioned in an earlier post, overlanding with your own car here is an expensive endeavor. Extending our stay would cost around $200 per person per day. And so, we continue to race through this captivating country at full speed, soaking up as much as we can along the way

Pandas and Progress in Megacity Chengdu

Leaving behind the charm of China’s ancient towns, we arrive in the bustling metropolis of Chengdu, home to over 21 million people—a number unimaginable for us Dutch. Despite its scale, the city moves with surprising efficiency. Traffic flows smoothly, and towering concrete overpasses are draped in lush greenery, giving the city a “jungle-meets-urban” vibe. Chengdu feels like a world of its own.

One standout destination is the New Century Global Center, the largest building on Earth. Inside, it houses a water park, theaters, cinemas, an ice rink, and the world’s biggest shopping mall. It’s a spectacle in every sense, and Charelle even finds a last-minute dress for the Sichuan opera we plan to attend that evening.

Chengdu is also synonymous with pandas, thanks to its Panda Breeding Center, the birthplace of nearly all pandas in the world. We imagine an intimate encounter with baby pandas, but are quickly reminded we’re still in China. The reality is far more chaotic. We shuffle in lines past glass enclosures, glimpsing pandas munching bamboo while crowds jostle for photos. Security guards yell over the noise, trying to manage the flow of people. After two overstimulating hours, we leave feeling disenchanted.

That evening, we dine with the owner of the company that arranged our trip through China, offering us a rare glimpse into the country’s tumultuous history. Stories of the 1960s-80s—a time of political upheaval, famine, and struggle—paint a stark contrast to the thriving Chengdu of today. We also observe how these generational differences influence behavior. Older Chinese, hardened by years of survival, often display a tenacity that contrasts sharply with the younger generation, who tend to be humble, introverted, and eager to embrace change.

Welcome to the Jungle

Our route, aptly named “from the desert to the tropics,” makes perfect sense as the arid sands of the north transform into lush green jungles and endless tea fields. It’s our final day in China—a rollercoaster of driving 7,000 kilometers in less than four weeks. We’ve laughed, cried, and formed lifelong friendships. This journey has been unforgettable.

For our last night, Marcel and the French guys decide to push culinary boundaries. On the menu: scorpion, tarantula, mealworms, grasshopper, pig’s foot, and cow’s stomach. We toast late into the night as a dramatic monsoon crashes down around us. There’s no mistaking it now—we’ve reached the tropics.

Tomorrow, we’ll cross the border into Laos and step into Southeast Asia, a brand-new chapter of this epic expedition.

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