Overland Journal Day 186-203: Island Hopping in Southern Thailand (Koh Phangan, Koh Tao & Koh Lanta)

We drive into the heart of Southeast Asia’s tourist mecca: the Thai islands. Oat milk lattes flow freely, smoothie bowls are everywhere, and we have to try VERY hard to escape the beaten path. But after some searching, we manage to find a few gems that still feel remote and free. We fall into the rhythm of island life: waking up with the sun, no plans, just seeing what the day brings. In Laos, slowing down felt like a challenge. But by now it’s second nature. Southeast Asia has officially worked its magic on us. Although we still have an important decision to make: What the hell are we going to do after Singapore? What happens when you reach the end of the road, but you’re not ready for it to be over?

Sourdough and oat milk in the South

After Ayutthaya, we steer the 4Runner south. Time for palm trees, sandy beaches and maybe, just maybe, a bit of that dreamy overland feeling? We picture it already: wild camping on a tropical beach, turquoise sea in front of us, fresh coconuts in hand. But that’s easier said than done.

It’s probably not a shocker, but Thailand’s south is very touristy. Getting off the beaten track? Not as easy as it sounds. We find out fast during our first night in Hua Hin. Instead of a quiet seaside stop, we find ourselves in a bustling town with shopping malls, massage joints, resorts, tourist menus and bars lined with Thai “hostesses”.

On the upside: sourdough toast with avocado and an iced oat milk latte for breakfast. So yeah, we might be deep in tourist land, but at least the hipster café game is strong. As we sip our coffees, we almost forget we’re on a rugged, raw and wild overland expedition. Almost.

The night we almost camped

We’re craving that real overland feeling again. Sleeping under the stars, hearing the waves, waking up with the sun in our tent. After weeks of rain in Laos and northern Thailand, today is finally clear. Blue skies, warm breeze, no excuses. We’re going camping.

Wild camping is technically not allowed in Thailand, but there are a few official campsites here and there. Good enough. We pick one, pack the car, and head out, excited for a night back in nature.

But when we arrive, we’re greeted by a swarm of mosquitos so thick you can hear them coming. On top of that, the campsite turns out to be more expensive than the hotel down the street. That’s a first. Back to hotel life it is.

Later that evening, we eat at a nearly empty beach bar just around the corner. It’s quiet, the lights are dim, and the beach is completely deserted. The sky is clear, filled with stars, and for a moment we just sit there, soaking it all in.

In the distance, we spot a little 4×4 track winding its way down to the sand. And we both think the same thing: this was the spot. This is where we should’ve camped. Tent under the palm trees, fire crackling, waves in the background. If only we’d found it a few hours earlier. Oh well. There’s always tomorrow.

What happens when we reach Singapore?

Somewhere between mouthfuls of massaman curry and sticky grains of rice, the question hits us. Not “what are we eating next” for once, but: what happens when we get to Singapore?

It’s only 1500 kilometers away now. That number feels unreal. For so long, the road was endless. The adventure always stretched out in front of us, full of unknowns and border crossings and breakdowns and deserts. And deep down, we weren’t even sure we’d make it this far. People warned us again and again: “You’ll never manage to drive to Singapore.” But here we are. Sand between our toes. Finish line on the horizon.

And to be honest… we never really planned for this part. Singapore was always a distant dream. A “maybe someday.” A dot on the map, way off in the future. But now it’s starting to feel real. And that’s kind of scary.

Going back to The Netherlands feels strange. Landing right into November, straight into winter? No thanks. Australia then? Sounds epic. Until we looked up what it costs to ship and temporarily import the car. Fifteen. Thousand. Euros. Yeah… not quite that epic.

What about staying in Southeast Asia for a while? Just… slow down. Hibernate somewhere with beaches and smoothies. Sounds great on paper, but Marcel is not built for this climate. The humidity turns every task into a sweaty mission, and hopping from airco to airco isn’t exactly the adventure we’re chasing.

Because that’s what we’re missing. The raw, wild, edge-of-your-seat feeling we had in Iran. Or in Turkmenistan, where the desert swallowed the road. Or high up in Tajikistan, where the mountains felt like they belonged to another planet.

What we really want? The Middle East. Oman. Saudi Arabia. The stuff overlander dreams are made of. Empty desert tracks, wild camping under star-filled skies, and that perfect winter weather. It sounds like exactly what we’re craving.

But then reality kicks in. The region is tense. Israel bombed Hezbollah in Lebanon just days ago. There’s war in Palestine. Attacks from Yemen and Iraq. It’s a mess. And as much as we want to go, we don’t know if we should. Or even can.

So, we walk back to our hotel, heads spinning, hearts tugging in different directions. No answers yet. One thing’s for sure though: we’re nearly in Singapore, but this journey is far from over.

On to Koh Phangan: our first ferry crossing

The next morning marks a small first. After all these months on the road, we finally drive the 4Runner onto a ferry. Destination: Koh Phangan. A tropical island with a big name and an even bigger full moon party reputation.

As we cross the water, the sun starts to set and the whole sky turns deep orange. One of those sunsets that makes you stop talking for a bit. Two and a half hours later, we drive off the ferry and onto island soil.

It doesn’t take long to realise this isn’t some untouched paradise. Koh Phangan is buzzing. Tourists everywhere, beach bars stacked along the coast, scooters weaving through narrow roads. And yes, every café proudly serves oat milk. That says enough.

Still, we’re not giving up. When we wake up the next morning we have one mission: We’re going to find a camping spot. No matter what.

With a few insider tips from the Portuguese owner at the breakfast bar, we start exploring. We zigzag across the island looking for quiet corners, empty beaches, and any forgotten patch of land where we might tuck ourselves away.

We find a vacant lot beside a kitesurfing school, apparently owned by neighbours who are never around. Then another spot behind a beachside massage shack, tucked under swaying palms. Both are fine for one night, but they’re not quite what we had in mind.

The island is simply too full. Resorts line the coast, music pumps from every direction, and it’s hard to find even a moment of stillness. But we’ve been through worse, and we’re not calling it just yet. Somewhere on this island, a hidden corner is waiting. We just have to look a little harder.

Paradise found in Southern Thailand

As a last attempt, we bump down a rough off-road trail toward Bottle Beach. It’s the only beach on Koh Phangan that requires a 4×4 vehicle to reach it. That alone gives us hope. And yes, this is the one. We’ve found paradise.

There’s a small wooden resort right on the sand, with a grassy patch tucked behind it. We take a chance and ask the staff if we can pitch our tent. They’re instantly enthusiastic about our trip from The Netherlands and say yes without hesitation.

We park under a tree, right next to the toilet block and the restaurant, which turns out to be a very welcome luxury. Just twenty steps to the sea, snorkelling straight from our front door, and a level bit of sand to cook dinner. It feels almost too good to be real.

In the evening, a group of Brits shows up. The staff kicks off a fire show and the Brits dive straight in. One of the women nearly sets herself on fire, which is both ridiculous and weirdly entertaining. The contrast is clear. They’re in full holiday mode. We’re in overland mode, trying to dry towels on the roof rack and cook on the tailgate. And honestly, it’s fine. It’s all part of the mix.

That night, we crawl into our tent to the sound of waves. Then the sky opens up and it starts pouring. Proper tropical downpour. But we’re high and dry in our little tent. Who’s going to bother us here, eh? Let it rain.

The magic of doing absolutely nothing

We end up staying for days. We do a loop around the island once more, just to be sure, but it only confirms what we already felt. Koh Phangan is busy, built-up, and in some corners a little too much. So we return to Bottle Beach without hesitation. Back to our patch of paradise.

This time we’re not alone. We meet Tjalle and Imme, a Dutch couple also staying at the resort. We click instantly. Imme turns out to be an incredible singer, and our evenings quickly turn into mini beach concerts around the campfire. Just us, some stars, and her voice floating over the waves.

In between the singing and the sea, we discover Kratom — a local leaf you can chew for a little energy boost — and slowly work our way through the resort’s cocktail list. Days start to blur. There’s no plan, no urgency, no noise. Just the feeling of being exactly where we’re meant to be.

And then, one morning, the spell breaks (but just a little). The staff gently let us know the resort owner is returning tomorrow. And she’s not quite as fond of tents in her garden as they are. Fair enough.

For our final night, we move into one of the resort’s beach bungalows. Just as cozy, a bit more legal, and with the same view of the sea. Tomorrow, we catch the boat to Koh Tao. Another island, just around the corner.

Diving and Kratom infused cocktails on Koh Tao

We leave the 4Runner behind in the harbor at Koh Phangan, since only a passenger ferry goes to Koh Tao. Back to backpack life for a few days. As we step onto the dock in Koh Tao, we spot Tjalle and Imme right away. They caught the same ferry. Within minutes, we’ve all checked in at the same beach resort. Our squeaking wooden bungalows are lined up next to each other, and the good times are basically guaranteed.

Koh Tao is tiny. You can ride a scooter from one side to the other in about fifteen minutes. It’s definitely not undiscovered, but it feels more relaxed than Koh Phangan. Less noise, more chilled-out energy. We quite like it here.

We spend our days diving and snorkelling. Koh Tao is known as the dive island of Thailand, and that reputation is well-earned. We head out with a boat full of forty other divers, and under the surface it’s just as crowded. Fins everywhere, bubbles in every direction. It feels more like underwater traffic than peaceful reef exploring.

Still, it’s pretty cool. We swim with baby sharks, spot turtles cruising by, and drift through coral gardens full of parrotfish and bursts of bright color. It’s busy, but beautiful.

In the evenings, we hang out with Tjalle and Imme over Kratom infused cocktails. That one was our idea, and somehow it works. Imme steals the show again, singing in little beach bars where the locals immediately become fans. Her voice, the ocean breeze, and the rhythm of island life go together perfectly.

We lose track of time for a few days. No plans, no pressure, just long swims and lazy sunsets. It’s everything island life should be. But eventually, we feel the road calling again. We take the ferry back, reunite with the 4Runner in Koh Phangan, and set course for the mainland.

From Khao Sok to Krabi

We make a quick stop at Khao Sok National Park for a boat ride. And wow, this is nature showing off. Turquoise water, sharp limestone cliffs towering above us, and a jungle so dense it feels like we’ve drifted onto the set of Lost. Of course, we squeeze in a photo stop at the famous rocky peaks, just like everyone else. Might as well if you’re here.

Afterwards, we’re both craving a bit of structure. A washing machine. A working Wi-Fi connection. Somewhere to open the laptop and figure out what’s next after Singapore. Maybe even hit a gym. So we book two nights in a hotel near Krabi to catch up on life stuff. Big mistake.

Krabi hits us like a neon slap in the face. It’s loud, crowded, and full of… stuff. Think Magaluf in rainy season. Flashing signs, pizza slices the size of your head, fried chicken in buckets, and cheap bars. We look at each other and wonder what on earth we’ve done.

But we’re already checked in. And to be fair, we get things done. Laundry, laptop work, blog updates, all that good stuff. We just try not to look out the window too much. If we ever decide to spend a winter in Southeast Asia, it definitely won’t be here.

When the daily rain starts, the beach clears out in minutes. Everyone runs for cover. We do the opposite. We run straight into the sea, laughing like idiots. No one else around, just warm rain pouring down and waves rolling in. Swimming in the rain is seriously underrated.

Koh Lanta: our favorite island in Southern Thailand

Suddenly, our time in Thailand is running out. In just a few days we have to leave the country because the temporary import for our car is expiring. So we pick one last stop: Koh Lanta. Supposedly quieter, more relaxed, and easy to reach with a short ferry ride from the mainland. Sounds great.

And it is. Koh Lanta gives us everything we’ve been looking for. Long, empty beaches. A gym to shake off the pad thai. A co-working spot with good coffee. Great food, slow mornings, a bit of peace. If we were ever going to live here for a few months, this place would be a serious contender.

We also discover the most beautiful islands we’ve seen in Thailand so far, just a short boat ride away: Koh Kradan, Koh Muk and Koh Ngai. Tiny slices of paradise that look like they were made for a postcard. Crystal-clear water, powdery beaches, and hardly anyone around. Not bad at all.

Southeast Asia has worked its magic

We find ourselves thinking about why this lifestyle suits us so well. Maybe it’s because time feels different here. We’re not living by the clock, but by the light. No appointments, no rushing, no pressure. Just days unfolding naturally.

In Laos, we really had to slow down the hard way. It took a while to adjust, especially after our fast-paced road trip through China. But here, without even noticing it, we’ve found our rhythm. Whatever Southeast Asia was meant to teach us, it seems to be working.

We don’t really want to leave Thailand yet. But the paperwork says otherwise. Our 30 days in Thailand are almost up, and in Kuala Lumpur a good friend is flying in to travel with us for a few weeks. A new chapter that we’re definitely looking forward to. So we pack up and get ready for the next leg of the trip: Malaysia. The second to last country on this wild ride from The Netherlands to Singapore. Feels unreal.

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