Overland Journal Day 93-109: Kyrgyzstan

Just a year ago, while camping on a tundra at 4,300 meters altitude in Kyrgyzstan, the spark for this expedition was ignited. Now, we’re back in this breathtaking country—only this time, we’re driving our own car from The Netherlands. How surreal and exciting is that?! Our memories of Kyrgyzstan are so cherished that we were slightly worried reality wouldn’t live up to them. Thankfully, it more than does. We start our way in the south, near the towering Lenin Peak, before making our way up to Bishkek, the capital in the north. This country still holds a special place in our hearts.

Back in Kyrgyzstan

Finally, back in our beloved Kyrgyzstan, the very place where the idea for our expedition first took shape. One year ago, we rented a 4×4 with a rooftop tent to explore this wild, untamed land. It was somewhere on a Kyrgyz tundra at 4,300 meters altitude that the dream of traveling the world in our own vehicle was born. Once we returned to the Netherlands, we didn’t waste any time—we bought our Toyota 4Runner and turned this wild idea into reality. Now, exactly one year to the day after leaving Kyrgyzstan, we drive back into the country in our own car. It feels surreal and, above all, incredible. A year ago, we couldn’t have imagined that this would be our life today.

We have such fond memories of Kyrgyzstan that part of us wonders if reality might fall short. But as soon as we cross the border, the landscape reassures us. Unlike the Tajiks, the Kyrgyz are a nomadic people, and it shows. Snow-capped peaks loom in every direction, while vast green steppes stretch as far as the eye can see, dotted with yurts and herds of wild horses, yaks, and goats. We didn’t realize how much we missed this until now.

The Mighty Lenin Peak

Kyrgyzstan greets us with one of its most breathtaking natural wonders: Lenin Peak, standing tall at 7,134 meters. This colossal mountain, straddling the border with Tajikistan, is one of the highest in the Pamir range. We set out on an off-road route into the mountains, but the heavy rains have turned the path into a mud pit. With half a meter of slippery mud beneath us and lightning flashing in the distance, we wisely decide to turn back and take a safer route to a yurt camp at the base of the mountain. It’s a good call—rain pours all night long. Thankfully, by morning, the skies clear, and we hike up to a panoramic viewpoint overlooking Lenin Peak. The view is stunning, and we finally get the chance to fly our drone again after the Tajik customs confiscated it.

Returning to Civilization

Just a few hours’ drive from this majestic spot lies Osh, Kyrgyzstan’s second-largest city. As we leave the mountains behind, the car starts sputtering. We assume it’s low-quality fuel we just filled up with, so we add some octane booster and hope for the best. Once in Osh, we don’t do much but take advantage of city comforts—WiFi, restaurants, cafes, and stores. It’s nice to recharge after our time in the mountains.

After five days of relaxing, we hit the road again, heading north towards the capital Bishkek. Unfortunately, the engine of the car still stutters occasionally. We decide to drain the “bad fuel” from the tank and fill up with 95 instead. No luck. Feeling a bit frustrated, we find a garage on the outskirts of town. After a thorough check, the mechanic discovers the culprit: a faulty spark plug. We replace all four on one side of the engine, and just like that, the sputtering stops. Finally, we can continue our way north.

Wild Camping Among Drunken Kyrgyz

Our next stop is Arslanbob, marketed as a charming mountain village with spectacular waterfalls and lush, ancient walnut forests. However, our experience turns out a bit differently. We set up our tent along the river just outside the village, and it doesn’t take long before we’re joined by a group of local drunks. We attempt to watch the Formula 1 race, but between the dancing, singing, and drunken antics of the Kyrgyz around us, it proves difficult. And this isn’t the friendly type of intoxicated crowd—a massive brawl breaks out. Thankfully, they make up quickly and, in an unexpected twist, start shaving each other in the river. At least this allows us to enjoy watching the Austrian Grand Prix in peace.

At 8 a.m. the next morning, we’re rudely awakened by the same chaos from the night before. The local drunks are back, armed with another bottle of vodka and blasting Kyrgyz tunes from their car radio. To make matters worse, it starts raining, so we hurriedly pack up the tent and make a quick escape. Overlanding isn’t always picturesque and serene.

Fortunately, our next wild camping spot is a complete contrast. We find ourselves at the stunning Toktogul reservoir, with its deep blue waters perfect for swimming and a beach that feels like a little slice of Southern Europe. The weather is blissful, it’s 25 degrees outside and there is a gentle breeze. We stay for two days, soaking up the simple pleasures of life: cooking meals on the beach and showering in the lake. This is the overland life we dream of.

Our First Fine in Bishkek?

With our China visa deadline approaching—we have to enter China on the 17^th of July—we hit the road again, heading straight for Bishkek. Naturally, our first stop in the city is our favorite coffee shop. As we pull up, we ask a nearby policeman if we can park in a particular spot. He eyes our car, sensing an opportunity, and says, “Your windows are too dark. That’s not allowed in Kyrgyzstan.”

We try to rephrase the parking question, but the officer sticks to his point. Turns out, he’s right. Tinted front windows are indeed illegal here, and with just a few days left in the country, the last thing we want is to remove the window film. The officer, however, suggests we do just that and hands us a hefty fine of over $250,- USD.

In a pinch, we call our local friend Nick, who steps in to negotiate. Through the phone, he tells the officer we’re “famous bloggers” and fining us could hurt tourism. The officer remains skeptical, so we continue negotiating for another two hours, explaining we’re heading to Kazakhstan and the tint keeps our car cool. Finally, he relents. Success—we get off with a warning and drive away, relieved. For the next few days we avoid driving through Bishkek’s center, hoping to steer clear of that same officer. So far, we’ve made it through the expedition without any fines.

We stay at Nick’s place for a week—he’s the same guy we rented a car from last year. His house has a big garden with a car lift, making it the perfect spot to do some much-needed car work after the rough Pamir Highway. We take down the rooftop tent, roof box, and rack, and repair the awning. Nick’s mechanic also does some maintenance on the car, making sure everything’s in perfect condition for our next adventure: China. With just a week until we’re due at the border, we set our sights on Kazakhstan, ready for the last leg of Central Asia.

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