Overland Journal Day 41-52: Iran

As we approach the 10,000-kilometer milestone after 52 days of travel, our journey leads us to the enchanting country of Iran. Despite initial nerves about exploring this unfamiliar territory, our apprehensions quickly dissolved upon arrival. Iran greeted us with unmatched warmth and hospitality, leaving us in awe of its rich culture, breathtaking architecture, and the genuine kindness of its people.

Border crossing to Iran

We felt a bit anxious about crossing the border into Iran. The country has different rules than we’re used to, and it carries an air of mystery. We didn’t really know what to expect. As we left the Turkish border, a customs officer warned us, “Take care, Iran is a dangerous place,” which didn’t help our nerves. But as soon as we arrived at the first Iranian gate, our worries melted away. The soldiers and customs officers greeted us with big smiles, instantly putting us at ease.

I was also concerned about my website and social media presence since many sites are restricted in Iran. The Dutch Foreign Ministry even warns that bloggers might be arrested, as they could be seen as “journalists without permits.” The Instagram tag on our car didn’t help. A customs officer pointed to it and asked, “Do you have Instagram?” We nodded, and soon the officers were scrolling through our photos, becoming our biggest fans. “Are you driving to Singapore? Can we follow you? That’s amazing!” I was stunned; wasn’t Instagram banned here? We quickly realized that while Iran has strict rules, they’re often not enforced. We even saw many women, especially in the cities, not wearing headscarves. The morality police – which make headlines in the Dutch news – were nowhere to be seen. That’s not to say they don’t exist; we just didn’t see them. Everyday life in Iran turned out to be very different from how it’s portrayed in Western media.

First Introduction: Tabriz, Ardabil, and Lahijan

With just a 14-day visa and Iran being such a vast country, we only visited the northern part of the country. Near the border, a friendly student (thank you Erfan!) helped us navigate our entry into the country. Western tourists can’t withdraw money from ATMs or transfer money to Iranian businesses due to international sanctions, so we had to bring cash and exchange it there. Erfan made sure we had internet access with a VPN and exchanged money for us. Interestingly, we discovered that everyone, including politicians, uses VPNs to bypass online censorship. It made us wonder why such rules exist if no one follows them.

If you have any questions about traveling to Iran, please reach out to Erfan on his Instagram!

Our first three days we explored Tabriz, Ardabil, and Lahijan. This was our introduction to the rich culture of Iran: stunning mosques adorned with blue mosaics, bustling local bazaars, diverse landscapes and unmatched hospitality. Everywhere we went people invited us for tea, a kind stranger handed us ‘halva’ (black rice pudding) on the street, and we were often not allowed to pay at stores or restaurants. Even when we insisted, due to the custom of ‘Tarof’.

Tarof involves turning down offers at least two or three times before accepting them. This even applies to things like paying for a taxi. The taxi driver will insist you don’t have to pay at least twice, before finally accepting the money. So, in general we would turn offers down twice but accept if something was offered for a third time. It was incredibly challenging for us to discern what was Tarof and what wasn’t. We might have unknowingly accepted too much Tarof, but we found the people incredibly hospitable, nonetheless.

Beauty amidst the chaos in Tehran

Tehran turned out to be a fantastic place to meet fellow travelers and was surprisingly beautiful if you could see past the traffic. We stayed in a central hostel and connected with many people our age traveling through the Middle East. Their stories about Afghanistan, Iraq, and Saudi Arabia captured our imagination, sparking thoughts of visiting those countries during our trip. The hospitality, authentic atmosphere, stunning architecture, and nature of the Middle East were drawing us in. Who knows … maybe on the way back?

The traffic in the capital was the worst we had ever seen. Absolute chaos, zero rules, and constant traffic jams. It took us about two hours to cover five kilometers. However, some areas in the city are car-free, revealing the beauty of Tehran. We visited the impressive Golestan Palace, the atmospheric Grand Bazaar, and the intriguing former United States Embassy.

The latter, now dubbed the “Former US Den of Espionage”, offers a glimpse into a significant piece of history and Iranian-American relations, and it’s an experience you won’t find anywhere else. The embassy was famously taken over by Iranian students in 1979, leading to a 444-day hostage crisis that deeply affected both nations. Today, the building stands as a symbol of that period, repurposed into a museum filled with anti-US propaganda and historical exhibits.

As you approach the building, you’ll notice murals and posters depicting a fallen Statue of Liberty with slogans like “Down with the USA.” Inside, the museum showcases various artifacts from the embassy’s operational days. You’ll find soundproof meeting rooms, spying equipment and secret documents. And even the shredded remnants of sensitive files that the hostages tried to destroy during the takeover in the embassy. The exhibits are both eerie and intriguing, providing a look into the espionage activities that took place during the Cold War era.

Road trippin’ in Golestan National Park

Leaving Tehran’s heavy traffic behind, we headed straight into the mountains. Rain deterred us from pitching our tent, so we opted for shelter at a cozy local ecolodge. Shortly after, a family from Tehran arrived, speaking fluent English and showing great interest in our journey. We spent the day taking pictures, hiking, and having deep conversations. One poignant moment was when a woman, around Charelle’s age, expressed her dream to travel freely like us but lamented that it was impossible with an Iranian passport. It made us realize how fortunate we are to have the freedom to travel.

The following day, we visited the Badab-e Surt Spring, home to the world’s second largest spring with stepped calcium travertine terrace pools. Just weeks before, we had seen the largest spring at Pamukkale in Türkiye. After visiting the pools, we found a small road on Google Maps heading east, which led us on an amazing off-road adventure through untouched nature. Eventually, the rugged path turned into smooth asphalt winding through the mountains, with not another car in sight—a road tripper’s dream.

In the evening, we arrived at the Haft Paykar Boutique Hotel in Gorgan, the most beautiful accommodation of our trip so far. The hotel, resembling a palace with its intricate carvings, interior gardens, and fountains, felt like an oasis of tranquility. While Charelle was working on a blog post, the CEO of the hotel approached us, inviting us on a tour with the province’s Director General of Cultural Heritage. We couldn’t refuse such a unique opportunity.

For hours, we explored every corner of Gorgan, getting photographed with local entrepreneurs and showered with gifts like pottery espresso cups, a handmade wallet, and cookies. The entire experience was filmed, and we were even interviewed for social media. That night, we went to bed exhausted and amazed, asking ourselves, “What just happened?”

Mashhad: Embracing the spirit of Imam Reza

Our final destination in Iran was Mashhad, one of the holiest cities in the country and the entire Islamic world. On our way to the city we made a detour through deserted ruins of the silk road: mud cities, caravanserais and ancient fortresses.

At the heart of the Mashhad lies the Imam Reza Holy Shrine, a massive complex that attracts millions of pilgrims and visitors each year. The shrine is a stunning example of Islamic architecture, featuring grand squares, intricate mosaics, multiple mosques, museums, libraries, and a large cemetery. As tourists, we had to dress modestly: women in chadors and men in long pants. Again, we were showered with gifts by the locals, such as sweets, chocolates, and even sacred soil. Our guide was surprised; she had never seen such generosity before. “Maybe you are very generous, and that’s why you get so many gifts now?” she mused. Let’s leave it at that, haha.

The positive energy in the air was palpable. According to our guide, you could ask Imam Reza for anything. We realized we didn’t want anything; we already have everything we need. Health for our family was the only thing we could think of, so that’s what we asked for.

On our way out, two Persian men with Australian accents invited us to dinner, making it clear, “No Tarof!”. We gladly accepted and spent the evening with this wealthy Iranian-Afghan family, discussing geopolitics and different ways of life while savoring delicious food and tea. The hospitality in this country is out of this world. I hope we can learn from their example.

Heading towards Turkmenistan

We planned to spend the night near the Turkmenistan border to cross early in the morning. However, finding a local lodge proved more challenging than expected. A group of local men saw us struggling and came to our aid. One man, in his sixties, guided us through the village on his moped. He stopped at the edge of a river and pointed across. We hesitated, looking at the churning water. Using Google Translate, we asked, “Isn’t it too deep for the car?” The man didn’t hesitate and waded into the river, checking the depth. It came to well above his knees, but he indicated it was safe enough. Sliding and skidding, we made it across.

The people at the lodge were amazed that we had managed to cross, mentioning that they had been stuck for days. We kept asking if it would be safe to go back in the morning and if the water level would be lower. They assured us it would be easier to cross the next day. Thankfully, they were right. The water level had dropped significantly by morning, and we crossed without any trouble, heading towards the Turkmenistan border.

● ● ●

Follow the expedition on Instagram for real-time updates, and a lot more photos and videos!