Overland Journal Day 26-40: Türkiye

We’ve been on the road for 40 days and covered 7200 kilometers, but we’ve barely scratched the surface of our epic adventure! Our journey has taken us through Türkiye’s diverse landscapes. From the touristy west with beautiful bays to the earthquake-stricken east with the most hospitable and welcoming people, Türkiye has stolen our hearts.

Pamukkale

We waved the hustle and bustle of Istanbul goodbye and headed to the southwestern part of Türkiye. This part of the country is known as the “turquoise coast,” and no doubt about it, the sea here lives up to that name. But our first stop was something completely different: Pamukkale. The name literally translates to “castle of cotton,” and once you see it, you’ll get why. Over the centuries, mineral-rich water has cascaded down from the mountain, creating stunning layers of limestone. It’s like a frozen white waterfall with pools of clear blue water. From afar, it might resemble a ski slope, but once you step on it, you’ll realize it’s something else entirely. The limestone formations are sharp, and you have to go barefoot. This added an extra layer of “fun”, especially for Charelle. Marcel couldn’t help but chuckle as she tiptoed around.

We started off optimistically, navigating our way up the limestone terraces alongside a few other adventurous souls. Every now and then, we waded through the pools of chilly, blue water. When we reached the top of the terraces, we were greeted by a crowd of tourists coming out of white vans, all eager for that perfect selfie. It was a bit of a tourist magnet, to be honest. And while the pools at the upper level looked dreamy in the photos we’d seen beforehand, they were bone dry when we got there. I’m not sure why; some people said there was water in the pools just a couple of years back. But even without the water, Pamukkale was still a sight to behold.

Turquoise Coast

Continuing our journey southward, we decided to set up camp right on the beach – where else? The waves lulled us to sleep as we gazed up at the star-studded sky. Along the Turkish coast, you’ll find an abundance of hidden coves, charming villages, and, of course, breathtaking beaches. Our route took us through places like Fethiye, Olüdeniz, Patara, Kaş, and Antalya. But the crown jewel for us was Olüdeniz Beach, with its long stretch of sandy shores caressed by the Aegean Sea. Paragliding over that stunning bay is a must-do. For us, however, it was a stop on our coastal road trip. Another highlight of the area was the eerie ghost town of Kayaköy.

Venturing a bit inland, we found ourselves at Saklıkent Canyon. Picture yourself wandering through this twisting canyon, with icy-cold water trickling beneath your feet and towering cliffs on either side. It wasn’t the easiest hike, especially when the water level started creeping up. But after about 4 kilometers, we were rewarded with a stunning waterfall. And when it got a bit too chilly for comfort, we decided to call it a day and head back.

Kapadokya

As much as we loved soaking up the sun on those beautiful beaches, our hearts were set on Cappadocia. Every morning – if the weather allows it – more than 150 hot air balloons light up the sky. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans, and the famous hot air balloons were grounded due to strong winds for a couple of days. But hey, who needs balloons when you can explore more than 100.000 caves that make up entire underground cities? It was like stepping into an Indiana Jones movie, minus the boulders chasing us. We found a fantastic spot for wild camping right on the edge of the valleys, where it would be possible to see the balloons right from our tent. We even managed to capture some epic drone footage—until a sudden storm decided to crash the party. Our poor awning didn’t stand a chance and broke, it was beyond repair.

With the wind howling and rain pouring down, we knew it was time to seek shelter. We hastily booked a hotel for the night, but our determination to see those balloons wasn’t dampened. At the crack of dawn, we returned to the same spot, and this time, luck was on our side. Yay! As the first light of day illuminated the horizon, we watched in awe as the balloons filled the sky with vibrant colors. It was a sight to behold, and despite the setbacks, our spirits soared alongside those balloons.

After the festivities, we reluctantly returned to our hotel, bidding a definitive farewell to our damaged awning. But with the help of a friend fluent in Turkish, we managed to order a new awning from a store in Istanbul. The idea was to deliver the awning to a hotel in Van, 2000 kilometers away at the border, just in time for our onward journey to Iran. No one in the store or the hotel spoke English, so we just prayed it would work out.

Malatya

With our Iranian visa set to expire on May 5, we faced a crucial decision: should we commit to traveling through Iran or take the alternative route via Russia? We soon discovered that obtaining a Russian visa wasn’t as straightforward as we’d hoped—the consulate in Tbilisi was closed for two weeks due to Russian Orthodox Easter, and the visa process itself would take another two weeks. That meant potentially delaying our journey by a month. On the other hand, our Iranian visa, secured back in the Netherlands, was safely tucked away in our glove box. After much deliberation, we unanimously decided: Iran it is! But that also meant we had a considerable distance left to cover, with only a few days remaining.

We settled into a hotel in Malatya, located in eastern Türkiye. Along the way, the aftermath of an earthquake that struck a year ago became painfully evident. Entire neighborhoods lay in ruins, debris scattered everywhere, and makeshift tent camps dotted the landscape. It was a sobering sight, a stark reminder of the long road to recovery ahead. Upon reaching the hotel, we inquired about parking, to which the man behind the counter grimly replied, “Everywhere is parking lot now,” encapsulating the city’s current situation.

Despite the hardships, the warmth and hospitality of the people in Malatya were unwavering. Our presence as tourists, a rarity since the earthquake, drew many curious locals who eagerly engaged in conversation or extended invitations for tea and coffee. It was a humbling experience, witnessing resilience amidst adversity. While the rubble served as a constant reminder of the city’s struggles, the indomitable spirit of its inhabitants left a profound impact on us. Malatya, with all its challenges, touched our hearts in ways we hadn’t anticipated.

Mount Nemrut & Van

As we made our way towards the Iranian border, we made a pit stop at Nemrut Dagi. Perched atop a mountain at 2100 meters, we encountered remnants of ancient tombs and statues, set against a backdrop of breathtaking views. The tomb belonged to the lofty King Antiochus I, who placed his statue alongside Zeus. Everywhere you looked, there were remnants of gigantic statues of kings and gods. The hike to the summit offers breathtaking vistas of the rugged Anatolian landscape and expansive valleys below. Our plans to linger longer were abruptly cut short by an unexpected beetle invasion, sending Charelle fleeing down the mountain in panic after one daring insect ventured up her nose. As if that weren’t enough, we discovered a few stowaway beetles had also made themselves at home in our car, making for some nerve-wracking moments on the road. Thankfully, our vehicular visitors were evicted, and we set up camp by the serene Euphrates River. We finished our last bottle of champagne, as we couldn’t bring it with us into Iran.

Preparing to cross the border demanded some logistical groundwork, so we hunkered down for a few days in the border town of Van. Situated amidst snow-capped peaks, Lake Van—Türkiye’s largest lake—provided a picturesque backdrop for our preparations. Battling a champagne-induced haze, we secured the necessary cash for our journey through Iran and Turkmenistan. A process that inexplicably stretched into a seven-hour ordeal. In the end, however, we were able to get our hands on 1500 USD cash. Much needed for the upcoming two countries, as we can’t use our debit cards there or withdraw money from an ATM. Additionally, Charelle went shopping for a headscarf and wide-brimmed attire and we dispatched our drone to a safe haven in Tajikistan via DHL, mindful of the bans in Iran, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan.

Our days were consumed with mundane tasks like laundry, getting a haircut, washing the car, and grocery shopping. Returning from a shopping excursion on our final night in Türkiye, we were stunned to see a mail carrier leaving the hotel with a sizable package—our awning! Charelle jumped out of the car and yelled: “MARCEL?!” to the mail carrier. He turned around, nodded his head and handed over the package. If we would’ve arrived at the hotel just seconds later, the opportunity would have slipped through our fingers. Although we still don’t know why the hotel initially refused to accept the package, we are very happy that we got our hands on the package. In the darkness and rain, we hastily installed the awning to our car, marking the final touch before our journey into Iran.

The journey so far is even better than we’d imagined it to be. We enjoy (almost) every minute of it, and realize all too well how lucky we are. So many people we encounter dream of similar adventures but lack the means or the passport to pursue them. Traveling through various regions, the world’s inequities become strikingly clear. Each day, we feel grateful and already consider this expedition as one of the most memorable chapters of our lives.

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