Overland Journal Day 110-116: Kazakhstan

With just one week left before we need to be in China, we cross the border into Kazakhstan—one of the world’s largest countries. A week is far too short to do it justice, so we focus on the southeastern region around Almaty, nestled between Kyrgyzstan and China. Luckily, this area is packed with incredible sights. We camp on top of the fiery red cliffs of Charyn Canyon, venture to the surreal sunken forest at Kaindy Lake, visit the touristy Kolsay Lakes and meet up with our Chinese convoy at the border between Kazakhstan and China.

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Almaty: Kazakhstan’s Largest City

Our first evening in Almaty is spent meeting the travelers who will join us on our convoy through China. Driving your own car through China requires tons of paperwork, and you’re required to have a guide with you at all times. To share the costs, most travelers form convoys. It’s a fun evening, even though the Netherlands loses to England in the semifinals of the European Championship of football. Despite the loss, we’re excited to start this journey with our new companions.

Almaty, a clean and green city, surprises us with its charm. We wander past well-maintained Soviet-era buildings (they exist), lively parks, and a beautifully adorned Russian Orthodox cathedral. Unexpectedly, we stumble upon a special Orthodox Mass, and we think we may have even been blessed by the priest. Though not a sprawling metropolis, Almaty has everything we need, plus a lot to explore nearby. After two days of soaking in the city’s vibrant energy, we leave its buzz behind and head out into the stunning nature of Kazakhstan.

The Land of the Canyons

One of the must-see highlights of Kazakhstan is Charyn Canyon, located just a short drive from Almaty. We had read stories online about overlanders driving their cars into the canyon and camping under the stars. However, when we arrive, we’re greeted by a concrete visitor center—and the news that cars are no longer allowed into the canyon. Disappointed, we pitch our tent behind a small hill next to the visitor center. It’s not the romantic wild camping spot we had envisioned, but it lets us get an early start on hiking through the canyon the next morning.

At 9 a.m., we’re expecting to be among the first to hit the trail, but to our surprise, tourists are already crawling everywhere around us. The peaceful, adventurous Charyn Canyon we had read about feels more crowded and tamed than expected. Still, the fiery red rock formations make for stunning photos and drone shots, even with the crowds.

The entire area around Charyn Canyon is filled with canyons, creating a breathtaking, rolling landscape perfect for exploring. As the sun sets, we find ourselves driving through one of these canyons, following an unpaved path along a crystal-clear blue river. We find a shady spot by the water to pitch our tent, soaking in the serenity. Under the light of the moon, our thoughts turn to China. In just a few days, we’ll cross the border and the first leg of our expedition will be complete. It feels surreal—China always seemed so distant, but now it’s almost within reach.

Off-Roading to Kaindy Lake

With only three days left before we head to China, we’re eager to check off a few more stunning lakes in the region. Unlike Charyn Canyon, this adventure turns out to be far more challenging. The road to Kaindy Lake, our first stop, takes us along dirt tracks full of deep potholes and across churning rivers. Charelle is behind the wheel, watching locals speed through the water in their beat-up cars like it’s nothing. She psychs herself up: “Just go. Foot on the throttle. You can do this!” But her head hesitates. “Are you crazy? Why drive into a raging river?” Her head wins this round, and she can’t muster the courage to follow the locals across.

Marcel, on the other hand, has no such reservations. He takes over and skillfully navigates us through several rivers until we finally reach a bustling parking lot. From there, a horse ride down a bumpy, muddy path brings us to the lake. And wow, it’s absolutely worth the effort. Kaindy Lake is unlike anything we’ve seen before—a submerged forest with dozens of tree trunks rising eerily out of the clear blue water. It’s a surreal sight, and one we won’t soon forget.

Kolsay Lakes or Kazakh Disneyland?

Dressing up with an eagle at Kolsay Lakes

After driving back through the rivers and bumpy dirt roads, we head to the famous Kolsay Lakes, another highlight of Kazakhstan. It’s immediately clear that this is a popular spot. The parking lot is jam-packed with cars, tour buses and restaurants, while vendors swarm the area, eagerly offering horse rides before we’ve even stepped out of the car. Neat trails wind around the lakes, and you can even dress up and pose with an eagle perched on your arm for photos.

The whole scene feels more like “Kazakh Disneyland” than the peaceful nature escape we’d imagined. Not really our vibe. So, instead, we set up our tent in the hills nearby and enjoy a quieter evening. The next day, we pack up and drive to our final stop before crossing into China: the border village of Zharkent.

Zharkent, Last Stop Before the Border

Zharkent is exactly what you’d expect from the last village before crossing into China—plain and a bit rundown, with concrete buildings and crumbling streets. Amidst all the chaos, though, we’re surprised to find a large, well-equipped gym where we’re welcomed with open arms. One of the trainers, also a powerlifter, even wants to take some photos with us. We squeeze in one last proper workout, knowing it might be the last for a while since our time in China promises to be intense. We have 7,000 kilometers to cover in just 27 days, and A LOT of sights to see.

As evening falls, the village’s heaters fire up, releasing thick, pungent fumes that hang in the air. We meet up with our convoy for China for a final dinner before the adventure begins. The group is complete, and tomorrow, we’ll embark on the next leg of our journey—heading into an entirely different, unfamiliar world.

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