Namibia 3-Week Itinerary: Epic Self Drive With 4×4 & Rooftop Tent

We hand the wheel to guest bloggers Jasper and Irene of Buiten de Bubbel. Namibia is the perfect destination for adventurous travelers who enjoy camping and self-drive trips in a 4×4. In 3 weeks, we travel through Namibia in our own 4×4 converted into a camper van. We do this together with 3 friends from the Netherlands in a 4×4 rental car with 2 rooftop tents. Namibia has some epic off-road tracks and an abundance of (wild) camping spots. Moreover, Namibia is very safe and it’s not expensive whatsoever. Renting a car with a rooftop tent is also incredibly easy in Namibia. In this blog, we take you on our 3-week itinerary for a road trip through Namibia. We share the absolute highlights, our favourite (wild) camping spots and the most beautiful 4×4 routes off the beaten track. We also share the places in Namibia that we think you can skip.

Driving yourself in Namibia in a 4×4 rental car with rooftop tent

First of all, Namibia is very safe to drive yourself. However, do not underestimate the distances in Namibia. The country has beautiful highlights, but most of them are more than an 8-hour drive apart. Due to the vastness of the country, you’ll drive many kilometres through no man’s land where you have no mobile phone reception and see few other people. In addition, only the main roads in Namibia are paved. Most of the roads are gravel, sand or salt. 

In Namibia, it’s very important to be well prepared for your trip. The big advantage? Car rental companies are familiar with the challenges of driving in Namibia and will ensure that you are always well equipped for the road: a large water tank, 2 spare wheels, a short course on how to change a tyre and excellent service in case of breakdowns. Halfway through our trip our friends were given a new rental car, delivered free of charge to our campsite, after 2 flat tyres and a broken air conditioning system. Want to be sure you are well prepared? At the end of this blog, you’ll find a list of tips to help you prepare for your 4×4 road trip to Namibia.

Itinerary for a 2, 3 or 4-week tour of Namibia

Namibia is HUGE, and unfortunately, three weeks is too short to see everything the country has to offer. That’s why it’s important to make some deliberate choices. In this blog, we’ll help you make those choices based on our experiences. Would you like to stay an extra week? Or do you only have 2 weeks? Then check out our tips below on what you can skip or add! 

Our ideal 3-week 4×4 road trip through Namibia

Day 1: Arrive in Windhoek and leave as soon as possible 

Well, we love Africa and African cities, but let’s be honest: Windhoek is boring. Cities are often the centre of culture, but this is not the case for Windhoek. In Namibia, you will find more culture in other parts of the country. Don’t waste too much time here and use Windhoek to do your shopping and pick up your rental car. Arriving late and need to stay the night? We recommend eating at Joe’s Beerhouse!

Days 2-4: On safari in Etosha National Park

If you are flying to Africa for a holiday, a safari should be on top of your to-do list. Etosha is a wonderful nature park surrounding a salt pan. You can drive around in your own rental car looking for wild animals, or you can book a game drive at one of the campsites in the park. The advantage of a game drive is that it increases your chances of spotting special animals such as rhinos and lions, and you get a lot more information. Is this your first safari? Then we strongly recommend a guided game drive.    

Days 5-7: In search of desert elephants in north-western Namibia

You won’t often find this in tourist guides about Namibia, but the north-west of the country is definitely our favorite region. This part of the country has the best 4×4 tracks and wild camping spots. It’s a little more off the beaten track, and therefore a little wilder, rougher and a lot less touristy. Exactly what we love. A rental car with camping gear is essential for this part of Namibia because it will involve camping in the wild and 4×4 routes. You’ll also find the last desert elephants in Africa here, and we’re heading out to search for them together with our friends.

Palmwag Lodge & the Palmwag Concession

We begin our search in Palmwag, which is also the last place to fill up your tank. We will be staying at the Palmwag Lodge, which offers beautiful campsites with private shower and toilet facilities. Elephants are sometimes spotted in the area, so with a bit of luck, you may already have seen your first grey giant! 

The next morning, we set off. You can choose to drive north through the Palmwag Concession on a challenging 4×4 track. We find this option, where you won’t encounter anyone else for a whole day, much more enjoyable than taking the main road. Highly recommended for the real adventurer!

This option takes us a full day + overnight stay in the Palmwag concession to finally reach the Hoanib River. You pay the entrance fee for the concession at the Palmwag Lodge. (Take a photo of the map here!). You must use the designated camping spots on the map (without any facilities) in the concession. We chose C6, where you have a beautiful 360-degree view of the stone desert. C8 and C9 are closer to the Hoanib and give you a better chance of spotting elephants and lions.

Hoanib River

The often dry riverbed of the Hoanib River offers the best chance of encountering desert elephants. However, please be cautious… a month before we camped here, a man was eaten by a lion in this same area!  We drive from our campsite to the Hoanib River and follow the bank westwards to the border with the Skeleton Coast.

At this point, we descend into the dry river and continue our search eastwards. You’ll need a 4×4 vehicle for this part of the journey. We see some zebras, jackals and springboks, but unfortunately still no elephants, and the day is almost over… Until we see a tree moving in the distance. That can only mean one thing! 

We have to use all our strength to remain calm, because there they really are; the desert elephants. A small family of African elephants that have adapted to life in the dry desert. 

Finding the desert elephants is a highlight of our road trip through Namibia. After a successful dag we leave the deserted world behind and drive towards Sesfontein for the night. There is a filling station here, but it does not always have sufficient petrol or diesel. So, keep this in mind.   

Day 8-9: 4×4 adventure from Sesfontein to Syncro Camp (Kaokoland & Epupa Falls)

From Sesfontein, you can drive to the Angolan border through the Namib Desert in a single day. The landscape here changes every 15 minutes, and we consider this to be the most beautiful region of Namibia. Make sure you have enough fuel, water and food with you, as this is also the most deserted part of this already sparsely populated country. 

From Sesfontein, navigate with your favourite 4×4 navigation system (we use OSMand) towards this viewpoint over Skeleton Coast: -18.78640, 12.66307. You will drive through Purros, where we had to search for a while to find a way to cross the river. The routes change every time there is water in the river.

From the viewpoint overlooking Skeleton Coast, continue to the “White Drum” (-18.177339, 12.590158).  In Namibia, drums are used to mark routes. These are extremely important landmarks for travellers and local residents with 4x4s in the desert. From the White Drum, you cross the Jouberts Pass, also known as the Red Drum Pass, to the Marienfluss.

The path is narrow, challenging and steep in places, but no problem for a standard 4×4. For this track, you can navigate to the Red Drum or directly to Syncro Camp. A great remote campsite with hot showers (wood-fired) after a challenging day in your 4×4. Prefer camping in the wild? There is plenty of choice in this remote area!  Optional: the infamous Van Zyl’s Pass is in this area. You can add this pass to your route if you are still in the mood for more 4×4 adventure after the Jouberts Pass.

Epupa Falls

The next day, the journey continues to the Epupa Falls. This waterfall reminds us of the Indiana Jones roller coaster at Disney or the Piraña at Efteling. Try to be there at sunset for the best photos and, if possible, bring your drone! We sleep at a campsite a short distance from the village called Epupa Camp. 

Tip: You can also reverse the above route. From Etosha you’ll go directly to Epupa Falls and do the route from north to south. You choose! 

Day 10-11: On the way to Spitzkoppe 

Did we mention that Namibia is big? It is now time to complete the loop in the north-west and head to the centre of the country. It is almost 750 kilometres from Epupa Falls to Spitzkoppe – a journey that is best divided into two parts when you are mainly driving on gravel roads. You have several options for breaking up this day:

• A stop in Kamanjab at Oppi Koppi. This is a campsite run by a Flemish couple where anyone with a foreign number plate can camp for free.
• The Brandberg White Lady Lodge. This is still a long drive, but you will arrive in paradise. A lovely swimming pool with a meerkat as a regular guest, huge camping spots where elephants come to visit and a beautiful sunset. 
• Bonus: in the morning, you can take a walk to see the thousands of years old cave paintings.

Depending on how far your drive will be this day, you can go hiking in Spitzkoppe NP end of the afternoon or the next morning. It is not advisable to go in the middle of the day due to the heat in Namibia. Spitzkoppe NP is a relatively small fenced-off area with some beautiful rock formations. You can choose to sleep in the park at the official campsites, which are quite spread out and offer beautiful views. Most are also sheltered from the wind.  We chose to camp just outside the park, east of Spitzkoppe, near a rock. These are the coordinates for this wild camping spot: -21.80471, 15.19188.

The next morning, we drive from the north of the park to the south free of charge (officially, this must be done within 25 minutes, but they are quite flexible). At the gate, you indicate that you want to cross over to the main road towards Swakopmund. You can also choose to pay to enter the park and, for example, climb the rock arch and Spitzkoppe yourself. 

Days 12-15: Sandwich Harbour, German vibes in Swakopmund & sea lions

After our morning in Spitzkoppe National Park, we drive on to Swakopmund. Prepare yourself, because the average daytime temperature here is 15 degrees, even in summer! This old town is located right on the cold Atlantic Ocean. Namibia was a German colony for a long time, and in coastal towns such as Swakopmund and Luderitz, you can see this everywhere in the architecture, food and street names.

We spend three nights camping here at Alte Brücke, where you have a canopy and each camping spot has a private bathroom. Nice and luxurious and well organised (in true German fashion). There are also plenty of places to eat in the city; Village Cafe and Biergarten Altstadt are our favourites. 

There are two things to do in the area that you shouldn’t miss: 

• The Cape Cross Cape fur seals. This is the largest colony of Cape fur seals in the world. Up to 210,000 fur seals gather here during the breeding season.
• Sandwich Harbour. This is the notorious 4×4 route along a narrow strip of beach between the high waves of the Atlantic Ocean and the dunes of the Namib Desert, some of which are up to 100 metres high. And the best part is that you can drive here yourself!

Days 16-17: Sossusvlei, the magical red dunes of Namibia

The next morning, we set off for Sossusvlei. We stock up on groceries because we know there won’t be much available further on. It’s a long journey over fairly rough washboard roads. However, you do get to see some beautiful landscapes!

In Sesriem, we stay at the NWR campsite in the National Park where Sossusvlei and Sesriem Canyon are located. We recommend spending one night in the park for the best experience. This gives you a one-hour head start in the morning and allows you to return one hour later in the evening, which is essential if you want to make the most of the sunrise and sunset.

From the campsite, it is almost an hour’s drive to the famous Dead valley and “Big Daddy”, a large red dune along the edge of this valley. If you sleep in the national park, you can be here at sunrise. 

Day 18: Fish River Canyon & Ais-Ais or abandoned mining town Kolmanskoppe 

We drive via the D707 towards the Orange River and spend the night just outside Rosh Pinah. The next day, we brave one of the most challenging 4×4 tracks of our lives. This took us about 4 hours, after which we drive via the Orange River and Ais Ais and finally arrive at Fish River Canyon. However, for us, Ais Ais and Fish River Canyon are two destinations in Namibia that you could also skip… 

The second option: Take the D707 to Kolmanskoppe, the abandoned mining town where the Germans discovered diamonds. Along the D707, you will also find a great little eatery or “padstal”: Caravan Cafe. After visiting Kolmanskoppe and perhaps enjoying an oyster in Lüderitz, you can camp among the wild horses in Aus. Highly recommended!

Would you rather visit Fish River Canyon, or does the 4×4 route from Rosh Pinah to the Orange River appeal to you more than an abandoned town and wild horses? Then you can navigate to Dawie’s “Namuskluft Camp” campsite, where he will also help you on your way to the start of the track. This is a great place to spend the night, with your own bathroom with donkey (wood-fired hot water). Coordinates: -27.99097, 16.83532.

You can decide whether you fancy the 4×4 route with your rental car and rooftop tent based on these photos… (no tracks to be found, just rocks).

Day 19: Our favourite wild camping spot in Namibia at the Brukkaros Crater

You will spend a lot of time in the car today because, unfortunately, you have to start your journey back to Windhoek. A slight consolation is that you will travel past our favourite wild camping spot in the whole of Namibia! 

Travelling from the south towards Windhoek, you will come across the Brukkaros Crater. This was once a National Park with an entrance gate, of which you will find some remnants, but you will not encounter anyone here. As it is no longer a National Park, it is not promoted anywhere and you will not find it in Namibia’s tourist brochures. Fortunately, because this means you will have this hidden gem all to yourself! 

With any 4×4, you can drive up the mountain on the crumbling road. The higher you go, the better the view! At the end of the road is a rundown campsite (don’t expect any facilities, it’s just some ruins). From here, you have a beautiful view of the valley and the sunset, as well as a glimpse into the heart of the crater. We saw more stars that night than we had ever seen in our lives.

Day 20: Camping amidst wildlife on the way to Windhoek 

Make the return journey enjoyable and spend your last night in the roof tent at A- Jansen Kalahari Guest Farm. Not only will you get to experience a little taste of the Kalahari, but you can also camp surrounded by wildlife!

During our stay, we were visited by a kudu and enjoyed breakfast among the zebras and giraffes. In the evening, we also went on a guided scorpion walk. On a quest with UV lamps, you walk around to find the luminous scorpions. Be warned though… maybe you’ll wish you never knew how many scorpions surround you at all times. 

Day 21: Returning the 4×4 rental car with rooftop tent in Windhoek

Time to drive back to Windhoek, return your car, catch your flight to the Netherlands, and plan your next holiday!

The optional extension package

Optional: Are you only going for 2 weeks? Or would you prefer 4 weeks? Then we suggest you adjust your tour of Namibia as follows:

2 weeks touring Namibia:

• Do the above tour but skip the south (everything below Sossusvlei) and/or a small part of the north (Syncro Camp & Epupa Falls).
• You can also save a day by skipping the Cape Cross fur seals.
• Have you been on safari before? Then skip Etosha or shorten your visit here by 1 day.   

4 weeks self-drive through Namibia:

• Use the above 3 weeks itinerary in Namibia but add the Caprivi Strip to your visit. This will give you game viewing scenes similar to those in Botswana because it is a lot wetter and therefore greener here! 
• In four weeks, you can also enjoy the south for longer and combine Kolmanskoppe, Ais-Ais and the Fish River Canyon. 
• Or go for the slow travel option and add some rest days to the itinerary above!    

Tips for your safety in Namibia and important preparations

• Walkie-talkies – the mobile network in Namibia is terrible, so walkie-talkies are very useful when travelling with more than one car. 
• Download your maps offline or bring hard copy maps with you – again, due to poor coverage in Namibia.
• You can pay by card in many places, but it is useful to have cash on you for souvenirs, tips at restaurants or informal camping spots. 
• Plan where you can refuel, as the distances in Namibia are long – do not underestimate this!
• Never drive at night; this applies to the whole of Africa. The roads are not only used by cars but also by pedestrians and animals, and they are poorly lit. 
• Apply for an e-visa for Namibia, as this has recently become mandatory for EU passport holders. You can do this via this website.
• Are you travelling alone? You can often hire a satellite phone from your car rental company. This is not an unnecessary luxury, as the country is sparsely populated. It may take some time before someone finds you. You could also consider purchasing the Garmin Inreach Messenger. This is an affordable option that allows you to call for help anywhere in the world if necessary. 
• At the airport, you can easily purchase a SIM card from MTC, which is much cheaper than the available eSIMs.
• In Namibia, they eat a lot of meat. Be sure to try the biltong and don’t be surprised when everyone lights a fire every evening for the “braai” (our BBQ).   

About Buiten de Bubbel

We are Jasper & Irene of Buiten de Bubbel (Beyond the Bubble) and we are travelling across Africa in our Land Cruiser. Our purpose? To see more of the world beyond our bubbles, and to share this with others. Through our social media and blog, we aspire to show people different aspects to Africa, a remarkable and diverse continent of which we have now traversed 25 countries. On our journey, we also visit various inspiring development projects, innovative companies, Dutch embassies, and remarkable individuals with extraordinary missions in Africa.

We have now achieved our goal of driving from the Netherlands to Mozambique, and plan 2.0 is to drive back to the Netherlands from Mozambique via East Africa and the Middle East. Curious about our adventures? Follow us on www.buitendebubbel.nl or Instagram @BuitendeBubbel.

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