Exploring Georgia By Camper: The Perfect 2-Week Itinerary (Including Wild Camping Spots)

We hand the wheel to guest bloggers Chantal and Donny. Georgia is one of those countries we couldn’t really picture until we actually rolled in with our self-built 2WD camper. We had a rough idea of mountains, wine and questionable drivers, but Georgia turned out wilder than expected. In this blog we take you along our favourite 2-week itinerary through Georgia, including the wild camping spots we loved most. We’ll also share practical tips for planning your own camper trip to Georgia. The country is getting more popular every year, but there are still so many places far away from the usual tourist trails. Whether you arrive with your own camper, rent one here or explore the country in a different way, we hope our itinerary helps you discover the raw side of Georgia that most travellers miss.

Driving yourself in Georgia: walkie talkies and potholes so big they can swallow a bike

For a bit, we traveled with other camper friends and used walkie talkies to talk to each other on the road. At first, we pointed out mountain views and begged for coffee breaks. After a while the conversation shrank to a single word: pothole. Sometimes even every few seconds. Our English friend nailed it with two lines we still repeat today. “Potholes so big they can swallow a bike.” And: “In the UK we drive on the left, in Georgia they drive on what is left.”

Unfortunately, he wasn’t joking. In some stretches you zigzag as if you are playing an old Nintendo game. The condition of the tarmac is nothing to brag about, many drivers seem to have found their drivers license at the back of a cereal box and half of the cars in Georgia are missing a bumper. Some fell off, others were removed on purpose so there is nothing left to damage.

The funny thing is, once you get used to it, driving in Georgia is completely fine. So don’t worry too much about it. Roads have improved a lot and if you keep your pace relaxed, you get almost everywhere. For this 2-week itinerary you really don’t need a 4×4 at all. You can reach everything with a 2WD camper just fine. Are you looking for a 4WD itinerary instead? Check out this blog.

Renting a car or camper in Georgia

A quick word of caution about rental cars and campers in Georgia: some companies forbid off-road driving or exclude whole regions, and they rarely mention that clearly on their website. Always ask before you book. Through this website you know for sure you get a trustworthy, local, English speaking company with – most importantly – reliable and strong cars. If you want to explore Georgia in true overland style, take a look at the UAZ Buhanka 4×4 campers from Joris. We’re definitely in love.

One other thing to keep in mind: if you enter Georgia with your own foreign vehicle, you can stay a full year as a tourist, but your vehicle is only allowed to remain in the country for ninety days. Vehicles over 3.5 tons officially get just sixty days, unless your truck camper is registered as a light vehicle. The customs officer decides this right at the border, so always check when you roll in. An international driving license is recommended, although not required. It might help with language issues when dealing with police or rental companies.

And if you want to explore the parts of Georgia most travellers never reach, get this off-road travel guide by Ountravela. It includes the best off-road, 4×4 routes in the country and gives clear, detailed instructions on how to navigate them. This means you can focus on the adventure instead of guessing your way through the mountains. We honestly can’t recommend their guide enough. Olivia and Victor, the authors, spent years driving every track, testing every itinerary and documenting every corner of Georgia. Their book is a no-brainer if you want to make the most of your trip.

Our 2-week Georgia itinerary with a camper

While we rolled into Georgia, our red cat sat proudly on the dashboard, confusing the border guards so much that they forgot to ask half the usual questions. We were about to explore Georgia with our own camper for the upcoming weeks. We didn’t know it back then, but traveling through Georgia isn’t smooth or predictable. It’s a bit rough around the edges, full of surprises and gives you the kind of freedom that makes vanlife fun.

Our 2-week itinerary took us from Tbilisi’s hip streets to national parks that looked like savannah. We tasted qvevri wine, soaked in outdoor hot springs and even got stuck on an abandoned Soviet airfield with our van. Read on to discover our favorite places and the best wild camping spots this country has to offer.

Tbilisi: hipster city with a rough edge (day 1-2: Georgia itinerary)

We kicked off our time in Georgia with a bit of a bang in Tbilisi. The city surprises you in the best way. Old wooden balconies hang out over crumbling facades, and just a few streets away someone brews a flat white that would fit right into Melbourne. Graffiti, messy markets, tiny craft breweries, hipster skate parks, loud nightlife and quiet courtyards all exist happily side by side.

We parked our camper at the Holy Trinity Cathedral (Park4Night: 127272). High up, surprisingly calm and close enough to walk into town. At Restaurant Home Kitchen nearby, we ate food that that came straight from a Georgian grandma’s stove Later we wandered through Dedaena Skatepark, where skateboarders, street musicians and families move around each other like a play that is performed every night. You can grab a cold local beer here and some easy street food.

The next morning, we took the cable car up to Mtatsminda Park. At the top you find an old amusement park where you don’t pay an entrance fee, only the rides you feel like trying. Our recommendation: the giant ferris wheel with a view that stretches over the whole city.

If you like creative spots, head to Fabrika in the evening. It’s a former factory that now houses quirky bars, street food stalls and art galleries. And if you are into techno, a night at Bassiani is something you will not forget easily.

A short drive outside the city took us to Mtskheta, a town so photogenic that bridal couples line up in front of the church. We had a great meal in the garden at Check In Garden, right by the water. And yes, we tried wine ice cream. It tastes exactly as you imagine: wine, but cold. We spent the night at the guarded parking next to town (Park4Night: 318239). The location is perfect, although it can get a little noisy.

Kakheti: the oldest wine region in the world (day 3-4: Georgia itinerary)

Kakheti is the heart of Georgian wine culture and often described as the oldest wine region in the world. At Vineria Kakheti we went down into the cool wine cellars while the winemaker, already quite tipsy but very entertaining, guided us through 6 wines and 2 spirits. All for just a few euros per person. Dinner afterwards was khachapuri, the famous bread with cheese and egg, plus more wine, for about 12 euros each. We were even allowed to stay the night in our camper in front of the winery.

The next morning you can make a quick stop at the abandoned castle in Didi Chailuri, where you get wide views of the vineyards. If you or someone in your group stayed sober at the vineria, you can also choose to set up camp here instead of at the winery.

For lunch we drove our camper to Sighnaghi, the “City of Love”, a hilltop town full of traditional wooden balconies, winding streets and sweeping views of the valley below. It’s touristy, but in a pleasant way. The recent restoration makes it look like a little film set.

In the afternoon, continue your Georgia trip towards Vashlovani National Park.

Vashlovani: permits, mud and snakes (day 5: Georgia itinerary)

Vashlovani National Park in the far south feels like a completely different Georgia. Not the postcard version with snowy peaks and wine terraces, but a raw and desolate semi desert. Dogs are not allowed into Vashlovani, due to the many herding dogs and snakes. Also, big trucks are banned to protect the fragile landscape. What’s left is a remote wilderness you can perfectly explore with your camper.

Dedoplistskaro is your last stop for food, fuel and cash. After that the world goes silent.

At the Vashlovani visitor centre in Dedoplistskaro you arrange the required permit to enter the national park. The fee is small, you show your passport and the staff speaks good English. They will explain your route and point you to the border police checkpoint a few minutes down the road. Once you get your final stamp there, the park opens up for you.

We arrived on a rainy day and it did not take long before we were completely stuck in the clay soil. The mud clung to our tyres and refused to let go. In the end our snow chains saved us and we managed to explore most of the park anyway.

That evening we camped at Shiraki Military Airfield, an old Soviet runway slowly disappearing into the steppe (Park4Night: 430251). It was silent and empty. We saw more snakes than people and in the morning a herd of wild horses trotted past. Before leaving we couldn’t resist one run over the runway for a few drone shots. A magical corner of Georgia. Just keep a close eye on the weather if you go.

If you want to experience this region in a completely different way, here’s our best tip: explore Vashlovani on horseback. This landscape feels completely different when you’re in the saddle. You get closer to wildlife, you reach places you cannot access by camper and you feel the silence of the desert in a way you will remember for years. It’s hands down the most memorable way to explore this region. Read more about this epic semi-desert horseback ride here.

The Military Road and the Truso Valley (day 6-8: Georgia itinerary)

Day six is a longer driving day towards the north. The Georgian Military Road connects Tbilisi with Russia and winds along gorges, fast rivers and steep Caucasus mountainsides. The route is stunning and tiring at the same time. The tarmac constantly shifts between smooth, bumpy and a full-on mosaic of potholes. Yet, the highlights along the way make it a day you won’t forget.

There are plenty of interesting stops along the way. Think of this as your menu:

• Ananuri Fort: a beautiful fortress and 2 churches with the Caucasus mountains as a backdrop.
• Pasanauri: the village where khinkali comes from. We had lunch at Restaurant Korbuda 2 where you eat khinkali the way they are meant to be. Big, firm and juicy.
• Gudauri and the Russian Friendship Monument: a huge circular viewpoint covered in colourful Soviet mosaics, perched right on the edge of the mountains.
• Sno: a field full of giant stone heads by artist Merab Phiranishvili.
• Arsha waterfall: a short, easy stop where you can stretch your legs and walk to a pretty waterfall at the edge of the village.
• Kazbegi: The mountain town at the foot of Mount Kazbek, one of the most famous peaks in Georgia. You can camp at Pasheti Swimming Pool and Mineral Water (Park4Night: 80936). You sleep surrounded by snow capped mountains, clear night skies and, once again, plenty of wild horses. One of our favorite park ups on this Georgia trip.
• Gergeti Trinity Church: the church that smiles from the front of many guidebooks. It sits high on a ridge above Kazbegi, with a dramatic backdrop of Mount Kazbek.

One of the most beautiful side roads off the Military Road is Truso Valley. We parked our camper in the village of Kvemo Okrokana and walked further into the valley. With a 4×4 or a small camper in dry weather you can drive much deeper into it. After a few kilometers, the valley opens up and it feels like you have entered another, remote world. Collapsed towers, colourful mineral deposits and thin smoke rising from old stone houses. At the very end you reach Abano Mineral Lake, where carbonated mineral water bubbles straight out of the earth. Pro tip: you can drink it right from the source.

The sulfur pools near Vani (day 9: Georgia itinerary)

From the mountains you descend into softer hills and head towards the round sulfur pools near Vani, west of Kutaisi. Little white pools where warm mineral water rises straight from the earth. No ticket booth, no fence, just nature… okay, and the unmistakable smell of rotten eggs. You get used to it though. We parked just above the pools (Park4Night: 185350) and soaked in the warm, bubbling water while the evening air cooled around us. A free jacuzzi in your backyard. What more could you possibly want?

Batumi: Pearl of the Black Sea (day 10-11: Georgia itinerary)

Batumi is not a subtle city. It’s busy and filled with international allure. Each year around one and a half million Russians, one and a half million Turks and another million visitors from everywhere else pour into the city. Batumi is a mix of neon lights, endless casinos, salty sea air, street noise and a skyline that looks like Las Vegas. And at the same time you can spot dolphins from the beach, which gives the whole place a strangely tropical twist.

We parked at the official motorhome area on the northern boulevard (Park4Night: 248331). At Namaste India we treated ourselves to a good curry, even though it felt like cheating on Georgian food.

The old town is smaller and more relaxed, with cosy squares that make you feel like you have suddenly ended up in Italy. Batumi feels like a collection of different scenes rather than one coherent city, and somehow that is exactly what makes it fun.

Vardzia: cave dwellings and a Soviet bathhouse (day 12-13: Georgia itinerary)

Following the Turkish border, you drive south towards Vardzia, a huge cave complex carved straight into rock in the twelfth century. You wander through dark tunnels, climb narrow staircases and catch quick glimpses of the valley outside. Wear good shoes and be careful with small children, some parts are steep.

To the left of the caves lies a Soviet era bathhouse that proudly calls itself a “swimming pool” on Google (Park4Night: 85936). It’s basically a concrete box filled with hot water from thermal springs nearby. Inside it smells like sulfur, damp concrete and something you could best describe as Soviet nostalgia. For around 3 euros you can take a dip. If you enjoy odd places, this one should definitely be on your list. We spent the night on the hill opposite the complex (Park4Night: 85780).

Back to Tbilisi (day 14: Georgia itinerary)

After 2 weeks of driving your camper around Georgia, it’s time to loop back to Tbilisi. Georgia has many more beautiful places to offer, like Mestia and the Svaneti region. We skipped that area this time. In autumn it gets pretty cold up there, and in high season it can be extremely busy. Besides, it feels good to leave a few things for a next visit, right? Spoiler alert: the Ountravela guide has 6 more off-road tracks in this region waiting for you. Just saying.

Traveling in Georgia with your dog or cat

Traveling in Georgia with your own dog or cat is definitely possible. It just takes a bit more awareness than in some other countries, mainly because of the many street dogs and herding dogs you come across. When we entered the country the chip and vaccinations of our cat were actually checked for the first time ever on our trip, which says enough.

In Tbilisi you quickly notice the ear tags on many street dogs. Green tag means friendly, orange tag means be cautious and red tag means keep your distance. In rural areas and especially in the mountains you have to watch out for herding dogs. They take their job very seriously and will protect their flock without hesitation. Always have a look around for farms and groups of animals before you decide to walk with your own dog or let your cat outside. Carrying a stick can help in an emergency to scare off dogs that get too close.

Safety and practical tips for your Georgia camper trip

• Google Maps is only partly reliable. It once sent us straight through an art park and up to a staircase where only hiking boots could take us further. Definitely not our camper. Always double check your route on Google satellite view, ask other travelers for recent updates or download Yandex as a backup.
• Georgians can seem a little bit blunt at first. Especially if, like us, you arrive from very warm and outgoing countries such as Türkiye. But smile, learn a few Georgian words and suddenly the hard shell cracks. When it does, people can be incredibly generous. We were invited to family barbecues a few times and once even received a free bottle of homemade wine from a stranger.
• At the land borders passengers and drivers are separated. You enter and exit through different lines. It’s simple, but good to know before you go.
• Internet access is well organised. Celfie is handy as an e-sim, Magti is a good option for physical sim cards and Starlink also works (update: 22-11-25).
• Groceries are fun and chaotic. There are big supermarkets everywhere, even Carrefour. Beer comes in two liter bottles and the Georgian language on the products often looks like someone dropped a plate of spaghetti on the page.
• Keep an eye on the security situation. Since the elections in 2024 things can be restless at times. The current general travel advice is yellow, with red zones you should avoid, such as Abkhazia and South Ossetia. Always check the latest advice before you go.
• Wild camping is allowed or tolerated in most places, as long as you leave no traces. In the mountains it’s smart to look for a spot before the evening fog rolls in. In villages we sometimes asked for permission and usually got a smile or a thumbs up.

Finally: what Georgia did to us

Our 2-week itinerary through Georgia by camper was anything but predictable. We got lost, stuck in the mud, rolled through extreme and impressive landscapes, ate and drank far better than expected and camped in places we would never have dared to plan. For us, Georgia is one of the hardest countries to describe to others. Unique is the word we keep coming back to. It doesn’t really compare to any other country we have visited and that’s exactly what makes it so special!

For more detailed information about the places above and precise routes for all kinds of vehicles, we recommend the Ountravela Georgia travel guide or check out the available rental cars and campers for your trip (and make sure to check out that UAZ Buhanka camper from Joris, that’s as epic as it gets).

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About guest bloggers Donny and Chantal: We are Chantal and Donny, travelling full-time in our self-built Volkswagen Crafter together with our red cat Ollie. We work remotely as digital nomads and have been following the old Silk Road towards China since January, via Türkiye, Armenia, Georgia and further into the “stan” countries. Ollie has been with me from the very beginning. He has his own spot in the van, a GPS tracker and more border stamps in his passport than many human travellers.

We hope you enjoyed this story. If you have any questions or want more tips, feel free to send us a message on Instagram: @chanti.and.ollie.

This article was last updated December, 2025. Some links in this post are affiliate links.