Driving The Scenic Military Highway In Georgia

The scenic and historic Military Highway is a mountain road crossing the Caucasus from Tbilisi in Georgia to Vladikavkaz in Russia. It was built in 1799 by Russian soldiers and for a long time the only way into the Caucasus mountains. The highway is 208 kilometers in length and takes you to historic towns and castles, lakes, winding mountain passes and the great Caucasus mountains. An epic and not-to-miss journey during your time in Georgia. In this post I share all the points of interest along the way.

General information

The Military Highway in Georgia is in good condition and it’s possible to drive this road with a regular car. Most of the route is not very hard, but once you reach the mountains there are many U-turns. Some driving experience is recommended. If you want to explore the Caucasus mountains in depth, I recommend that you hire a 4WD car. In Kazbegi, for example, a 4WD car allows you to drive to the Gergeti Trinity Church and the Truso Valley instead of hiking. I hired a Toyota 4Runner at GSS car rental and really recommend their service. Read more about driving around Georgia in my post about the most epic Georgia road trip itinerary.

Mtskheta

The traffic in Tbilisi is somewhat crazy, so quickly leave the city and drive in approximately 30 minutes to Mtskheta. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the oldest cities in Georgia and also the former capital.

Some of the most significant holy monuments in the entire country are found in Mtskheta. Explore the medieval streets of the town and learn about Georgian history and culture at the Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari, the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral and the Samtavro Monastery.

You come across the Holy Cross Monastery of Jvari before you reach Mtskheta, as this monastery lies on a hill overlooking the town. From here you also see the confluence of the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers. A remarkable sight, as the former is mud brown and the latter clear blue.

Zhinvali Reservoir and Ananuri Castle

From Mtskheta continue to the Zhinvali reservoir, a large turquoise water reservoir, part of the Aragvi river. Make a few stops to enjoy the views, for example at the Zhinvali dam. This is one of the largest hydroelectric power stations in Georgia.

Also wander around the notable 17^th-century Ananuri castle complex, a walled fortification of two castles at the river banks. There are also two churches in the complex. The location of this medieval complex is pure magic, with its tall towers overlooking the turquoise Zhinvali lake.   

Friendship Monument and Jvari Pass

After Ananuri, the road becomes steeper. Gentle hills transform into winding mountain passes and U-turns. The dramatic landscape of the Caucasus draws you in with the peaks growing ever higher. Snow begins to appear on the slopes.

When you are almost at the highest point of the Military Highway, you see an extraordinary round building with several columns and pillars. This is the Friendship Monument, build to celebrate the “friendship” between the Soviet Union and Georgia. The views from this place are unrivaled. It’s your first chance to properly appreciate the spectacular mountains that you find yourself in. The deep greens of the valley and the icy peaks blend together in dramatic cliffs.

The reason I say “friendship”, however, is because there are still some areas in Georgia that are occupied by Russia (from Georgian perspective). One of those places is South Ossetia, which lies behind the mountains that you see from the friendship monument. Quite a strange feeling, but it doesn’t take away the beauty of the raw and untouched nature of the Caucasus mountains.

Very soon after the Friendship Monument you reach the peak of the Jvari Pass, the highest point of the Military Highway. This is almost 2400 meters above sea level.

Gudauri and Stepantsminda

You drive through the (in the summer almost abandoned) ski resort Gudauri before reaching the final destination for most travelers: Stepantsminda.

Stepantsminda lies in the Kazbegi national park, high up in the Greater Caucasus and almost at the border with Russia. Here you find yourself at the foot of Mt. Kazbek, the third-highest mountain in Georgia with an incredible 5054 meters in height.

When you look up from the village, you see the silhouette of the peak and one of the most famous attractions in the entire country: the Gergeti Trinity Church. Although Stepantsminda itself is not particularly beautiful, there are plenty of guesthouses and the village serves as an ideal base to explore the area of Kazbegi.

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Would you like to drive the stunning Military Highway in Georgia? Let me know if you have any questions or advice about this trip! If you want to read more, make sure to check out my other Georgia posts.