Overland Journal Day 159-172: Cambodia Road Trip to Phnom Penh, Koh Rong & Angkor Wat

We leave behind what’s said to be the most corrupt border crossing in Asia and roll into Cambodia. At this point, we’ve been on the road for five months and have covered 27,000 kilometers. We dive headfirst into the comforts of city life in Phnom Penh, soak up the easygoing island vibe on Koh Rong, and – maybe the biggest milestone yet – we drive our own car straight through the gates of Angkor. But our time here comes to an unexpected end when Charelle needs medical attention. We pack up earlier than planned and head for the Bangkok Hospital as soon as possible.

City comforts in Phnom Penh

For less than €30 a night, we check into a four-star hotel. There’s a pool, gym, comfy bed, and a rooftop bar with a jacuzzi overlooking the Mekong. As if that’s not good enough, happy hour brings two Long Island Iced Teas for just €5. Naturally, we’re bubbling away until sunset.

The contrast with Laos couldn’t be bigger. Just days ago, we were slipping through mud in the rain. Now we’re sipping cocktails in steaming water overlooking the skyline of Cambodia’s capital. Still, something feels off. Where’s the thrill? The unknown? This feels more like a holiday than an expedition.

But hey, we give in. We cruise through the city in tuk-tuks, visit the Royal Palace, eat the best pizza of the entire trip, and drink cold beers in the lively Bassac Lane. Just a heads-up: in some parts of the city, bars are a front for the widespread sex industry. So choose your spot wisely.

Cambodia’s darkest chapter

Phnom Penh surprises us with its laid-back energy and gritty edge. It’s a mix we’ve grown to love. But beneath the buzz of the city lies a painful past.

We visit two of the most confronting places in Cambodia: the former prison S-21 and the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek. Here, we get a glimpse of the horrors that unfolded during the Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970s, when Pol Pot’s leadership led to unimaginable suffering and mass genocide.

The stories, the images, and the atmosphere hit hard. It’s difficult to fully comprehend the scale of the pain and loss. These places are tough to visit, but they matter. They remind us how much strength and resilience people are capable of. Even after living through the unthinkable.

Tropical timeout on Koh Rong

Our partner Bookaway sorted out minivan and ferry tickets to the tropical island of Koh Rong for us. And of course, we weren’t about to say no. So, for the first time in months, we leave our trusty 4Runner behind and squeeze into a minivan like true backpackers.

A few hours later, a speedboat cuts across turquoise waters and there it is: white beaches, clear sea, waving palm trees, and a dreamy resort less than twenty steps from the water.

Overlanding? Never heard of that.

We stay for five days. Jogging on the beach, scooter rides through the jungle, cocktails under the stars, blog updates from a shady terrace, and long lazy swims. Not bad at all.

But the expedition won’t continue on its own. So after some lazy days, we head back to Phnom Penh, reunite with our 4Runner, and shift gears northward. Angkor, here we come.

Driving through the gates of Angkor

The alarm goes off at 4 a.m. Yep, that’s what it takes if you want to catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. We found our guide through TikTok: Lao, a laid-back local with hundreds of thousands of followers and a serious love for Angkor. Just our kind of guy.

Turns out, it’s also his first time guiding someone through the complex in a their own car. It doesn’t fully hit us at first, but we just drove to Angkor Wat. Absolutely wild.

Nothing Lao tells us, and nothing we’ve read, prepares us for what we see. Just before sunrise, we park and walk through the quiet alleys of closed-up shops and cafés. Then, there it is: Angkor Wat. Bathed in soft pink morning light, its stone towers rise up like something from another world. We wander through the complex for hours. Every corner, every carving, every stone has a story to tell.

But Angkor isn’t just Angkor Wat. The entire complex covers more than 400 square kilometers and is packed with temples. Luckily, you can drive from one temple to the next. Our second stop: Ta Prohm. You might know it as the Tomb Raider temple. Here, the jungle has taken over. Enormous Ficus trees wrap themselves around the ruins, their roots holding up the walls as if the temple and the forest have grown into one. They’re completely dependent on each other now, one can’t survive without the other.

We finish the day at the Bayon Temple, built by King Jayavarman VII. His goal? To outdo Angkor Wat. Ambitious for sure. And it’s impressive too. Dozens of stone faces gaze down from the towers, and the carvings in the walls are unbelievably detailed. But does it surpass Angkor Wat? Not for us.

Only when we drive back we realize how special this day has been. For seven hours we wandered through ancient temples, listened to stories of powerful kings, and watched the jungle slowly take over what was once a mighty city. Angkor lived up to every expectation, and more. It’s one of the most famous places in the world for a reason. But you only really get it when you’re standing there, surrounded by it all. For us, without question, the highlight of Cambodia.

Unexpected ending to our Cambodia road trip

Charelle’s been having ear trouble since our last days in Laos. At first, it was just a dull ache, but it’s slowly getting worse. In Phnom Penh, a slightly scatterbrained British doctor takes a look. In Siem Reap, two more doctors try to help at a local clinic. Still, no improvement unfortunately. Just more pain. They poke and prod, but it leads nowhere. Her ear gets irritated, inflamed, and increasingly painful.

We’re done taking chances. After reading too many horror stories about Cambodia’s healthcare system, we decide to head for Thailand. Bangkok Hospital has a great reputation and is known as one of the best in Southeast Asia. We managed to book an appointment with an ENT specialist, and it’s set for two days later. Better start driving towards Bangkok as soon as possible.

Ready for the road again

Cambodia gave us room to slow down. To swap muddy roads for soft beds, and cold showers for rooftop jacuzzis. And sure, that’s pretty great. But it comes with a price, literally. Our daily budget here nearly doubled, even though Cambodia isn’t exactly expensive.

We’ve enjoyed the comfort. But we’re also kind of done with it. We’re not on this expedition to hang out in four-star hotels. We’re here for the adventure. And that’s something you won’t find in a cocktail glass.

In that sense, Cambodia gave us exactly what we needed. A breather, and a fresh dose of energy. We’re ready for the next leg. Thailand, here we come. Only 3 more countries to go.

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