Overland Journal Day 118-121: First Impressions of China (Xinjiang)

Our journey through China begins in the Xinjiang region, offering a fascinating mix of contrasts. While the state control often highlighted in Western media is undeniably present, we’re also introduced to a side of China rarely seen in headlines: mouthwatering cuisine, curious and welcoming locals, stunning landscapes, and an infrastructure that’s nothing short of impressive. These first few days are packed with adventure. Our car sustains damage while navigating a canyon during a fierce storm, we get our first taste of the eccentric world of Chinese tourism, and we dive into an off-roading escapade through the surreal landscapes of Devil City.

First Steps in China: Xinjiang 

Day 118 of the expedition marks our first morning in China, greeted by a slight hangover and the realization that we’ve already traveled 16.805 kilometers. Ahead of us lies another 7.000 kilometers to cover in just 27 days—nearly a third of our total journey when we arrive at the border with Laos. China, a country almost as expansive as Europe, promises a kaleidoscope of landscapes, cuisines, and cultures. 

Our adventure begins in Xinjiang, a region often spotlighted in Western media for its complex political landscape and the plight of the Uyghurs under Chinese government policies. Signs of state control are immediately apparent. Gas stations are enclosed with fences and topped with barbed wire. To refuel, our Chinese guide must scan his face and present his ID, a system designed to strictly regulate access to fuel.

The ever-present state control extends to frequent police checkpoints along the roads. As a convoy, we must stick close together in this area, relying on our mandatory guide to navigate every fuel stop and police inspection. Wild camping is not an option here; we are required to stay in government-approved hotels designated for foreign tourists.

But amidst these restrictions, Xinjiang reveals a different side—one full of surprises. The food is incredible, the locals are curious and eager to engage despite speaking no English, and the landscapes are stunning. We pass fleets of silent electric vehicles, sprawling solar farms, endless rows of wind turbines, and immaculate, futuristic highways. This first taste of China feels like a leap into the future, making Europe seem like it’s lagging far behind.

Car Damage During Canyon Chaos

On our second day in China, Adam, the motorcyclist in our convoy, continues to struggle with engine trouble. He and our guide Joe head to a mechanic for repairs, leaving us and the French duo to explore the nearby Kuitin Grand Canyon. Luckily for us, the only police checkpoint along the route is unattended, sparing us the hassle of navigating it without our guide. 

This marks our first encounter with a Chinese tourist hotspot, and we’re completely unprepared. Hundreds of cars flood the area, all heading to the same destination—the “scenic area,” as it’s officially labeled in China. The chaos feels overwhelming, but it’s only a small taste of what’s to come in the weeks ahead. Amid the bustling crowds, we park and make our way to a viewpoint overlooking the canyon. The scene is breathtaking: undulating mountains, a wild river carving through the landscape, and a dirt road winding its way into the heart of the canyon. We exchange a glance, and the decision is unanimous—there’s no way we’re leaving without exploring that road ourselves. 

With the rugged terrain unsuitable for the French guys’ Renault 4L, they pile into our car, improvising a back seat with sleeping bags and pillows. However, halfway down the descent into the canyon a sudden storm unleashes chaos. Rocks and debris start tumbling from the steep mountain slopes, forcing us to descend further to find a safe place to turn around.  The ascent becomes a nerve-wracking race against nature, navigating the winding road as fast as we dare. Oscar, Hugues, and I scan the slopes, shouting directions to Marcel at the wheel: “BRAKE!!!” or “GO!!!” to avoid incoming rocks. Despite our best efforts, a boulder slams into the car with a deafening thud. 

Once we escape to the top of the canyon, we inspect the damage. Thankfully, it’s just a dent and a scratch on the side door—nothing catastrophic. We choose to view it as a medal of honor from our canyon adventure.

Jiohe Ruins, Flaming Mountains and Mazha

In the days that follow, we settle into a steady rhythm: wake up, drive, refuel, navigate police checkpoints, and explore tourist attractions with our convoy. Each stop continues to leave us both amazed and perplexed. 

At the Jiohe Ruins—what remains of an ancient city worn down to dusty rock—we’re ushered onto an electric train. As it trundles along, a booming Chinese narration fills the air, taking us to the starting point of a walk through the ruins. The juxtaposition is striking: sleek, modern cameras watching our every move against the backdrop of the weathered, crumbling past. Perfectly laid walkways guide us through the site, a sharp contrast to its ancient surroundings. 

The Flaming Mountains are no less surprising. Upon arrival, we’re greeted by a roadside parking lot where visitors are required to buy a ticket just to view the mountains up close. Not entirely convinced of the necessity, we notice that the view is perfectly visible from the lot—or even from further down the road if you keep driving. Yet, none of this dampens the enthusiasm of the Chinese tourists. They swarm the “Flaming Mountain Scenic Area” with selfie sticks, phones, and gimbals in hand, eager to capture the fiery red mountains steeped in myth. Legend has it that a monk and a monkey king once used a giant fan to extinguish the mountain’s flames, making it a revered symbol in Chinese Buddhist culture. While the tourists clamor for their perfect shots, we opt for a more laid-back approach, posing for an epic team photo in the middle of the road with the dramatic red peaks as our backdrop. A fitting souvenir for us—though it might not earn the same praise from the enthusiastic crowds around us. 

Our next stop is Mazha, one of Xinjiang’s oldest villages, boasting over 2,600 years of history. Popular among Han Chinese tourists, the village is marketed as a “traditional Uyghur experience.” Yet, the whole scene feels uncomfortably voyeuristic, as though the culture on display is being observed like an exhibit. The unease deepens when we see the village’s ancient mosque and temple, both closed to locals and the public. Their doors are firmly shut, sending a clear message: no one is allowed inside. Driving through the area around Mazha, the disquiet lingers. The streets are eerily empty, almost devoid of people or cars. Yet, at every street corner, gleaming white surveillance cameras stand watch. It’s impossible to shake the feeling that every move is monitored. Big Brother is watching you.

Off-Roading Through Devil City 

Though the day is slipping away, we can’t resist heading to Devil City, an off-road route winding through the Gobi Desert. The heat is punishing, as we descend into one of the lowest places on Earth near Aiding Lake at -154.3 meters. The car’s thermometer hits a blistering 45°C. Adam struggles to endure the ride on his motorcycle, while the French guys brave the sweltering heat in their Renault 4L, lacking air conditioning. Stepping outside feels like being blasted by a scorching hair dryer. 

When we finally reach Devil City, it’s off-roading with a Chinese twist. Tickets are mandatory, and the entry includes safety videos warning of the hazards ahead. Our guide Joe looks noticeably anxious. Surprisingly, the lead-up to the off-road section features pristine asphalt, complete with fences and warning signs—a far cry from what we’d imagined. 

Once on the dunes, though, we can’t help but revel in the adventure. With the sun setting over the golden sands, we race through the rugged terrain, kicking up trails of dust. We arrive at the hotel far later than planned—again—but it’s worth it. By now, the unofficial motto of our journey has become clear: “We’ll sleep when we get to Laos.”

In just three action-packed days, we’ve covered 1.250 kilometers of the 7.000 ahead. Tomorrow, we leave Xinjiang and look forward to regaining a bit of freedom on the road.

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