Overland Journal Day 57-71: Uzbekistan

After 57 days on the road covering over 12.000 kilometers, we arrive in the 13th country of the expedition: Uzbekistan. Leaving the totalitarian state of Turkmenistan brought immense relief, yet lingering paranoia and exhaustion still haunted us. To recuperate, we spent five days in Khiva, an enchanting, meticulously restored, ancient city. Join us as we continue our journey through Central Asia, exploring the historic Silk Road cities of Bukhara and Samarkand, the tranquil Nuratau Mountains, and the vibrant metropolis of Tashkent.

Paranoia and suspicion after Turkmenistan

Leaving the totalitarian state of Turkmenistan brings a profound sense of relief, though our next destination doesn’t promise much better in terms of human rights. The first “president” of Uzbekistan, Islom Karimov, was a notorious dictator who ruled with an iron fist until his death in 2016. The current president, Mirzijojev, has introduced some positive changes and relaxations, but the intense surveillance persists. For instance, tourists must register every night or face hefty fines upon departure. Despite this, after the stifling atmosphere of Turkmenistan, it feels like we can finally breathe again.

Mentally, however, we’re still recovering. Exhaustion and suspicion cling to us. Sometimes I irrationally think, ‘Is that person a Turkmen secret agent? Be careful what you say.’ Of course, it makes no sense, and I know that rationally. But apparently, four days in a dictatorship were enough to make me paranoid. To recuperate, we spend five days in the enchanting city of Khiva, just across the border.

Transported to the past in Khiva

Stepping into Khiva feels like stepping back in time. This ancient, mud-brick city has been meticulously restored. It’s almost too perfect and it feels like you’re walking through a living museum of perfectly preserved history. The city’s skyline is dotted with minarets and domes, each one more beautiful than the last. The intricate tile work on the madrassas, palaces, and mosques is a testament to the artisans of a bygone era. Rich blue tiles glisten in the daylight, creating a stunning contrast against the earth-toned structures.

Walking through the city, you might even encounter actors dressed as ‘Khans’, adding a touch of theatrical magic to the experience. These performers bring to life the history of Khiva, where powerful leaders once ruled and grand caravans traversed the Silk Road. Despite its serene beauty, Khiva has a complex past. Known for its once-thriving slave trade, the city’s dark history is a stark contrast to its present tranquility. Today Khiva is a peaceful haven where the echoes of the past are preserved in every brick and tile.

Every evening, we dine at the “Terrassa” restaurant, savoring delicious local dishes and an extensive wine list, while enjoying live music and panoramic views of the illuminated inner city. Khiva transforms into a romantic, almost mystical place. As the sun sets, bathing the city in deep orange, we’re swept away by the melodies and start feeling normal again (as normal as we get). It’s wonderful to take this break, and we realize how special this time is and how grateful we are for the opportunity to travel. We also resolve to make more time for ourselves once we return to The Netherlands. Saying ‘no’ more often might make our busy lives more enjoyable. Having mental space apparently helps you appreciate these things.

Silk road cities of Bukhara and Samarkand

While most Central Asian countries boast impressive natural landscapes, Uzbekistan dazzles with its historic cities. Bukhara and Samarkand, jewels of the ancient Silk Road, captivate every traveler’s imagination. These cities, though different from Khiva’s mud-brick walls with their majestic stone buildings, share an aura of opulence and grandeur.

In Bukhara and Samarkand, the central squares are the most striking. Magnificent madrassas and mausoleums face each other, crowned with large, azure domes, while slender minarets soar above. It’s a spectacle to behold. Standing in Registan Square in Samarkand, you feel humbled, walking in the footsteps of legendary figures like Timur Lenk and Genghis Khan.

The grandeur and historical significance of the squares are overwhelming. We found ourselves spontaneously video calling friends and family at the Registan Square in Samarkand, eager to share the marvelous sight. Yet, the camera fails to capture the true essence and magnificence of these cities. Words and images simply fall short.

Bukhara and Samarkand are not just places to see; they are places to experience, to feel the weight of history and the splendor of an ancient civilization. We can only urge you to visit and be enchanted by their timeless beauty yourself. To quote Alexander the Great when he first laid eyes on Samarkand: “Everything I heard about Samarkand is true, except for one thing: it turned out to be more beautiful than I could imagine.”

Change of scenery in the Nuratau Mountains

The roads in Uzbekistan can feel monotonous, stretching endlessly across sandy plains dotted with scrubby bushes. The desert. Craving a change of scenery, we detour to one of the country’s few mountainous regions, Nuratau—a refreshing escape from the oppressive city heat. During a hike in the mountains, we realize that our fitness level has taken a hit from days of overlanding. Completely out of breath, we ascend the rugged terrain, but the effort is worth it.

And the adventure doesn’t stop there. We indulge in exhilarating off-roading along sandy trails that wind around a large, crystal-clear mountain lake. Surrounded by unspoiled nature, the beauty of Nuratau revitalizes us after the urban landscape of countless madrassas.

Tashkent: Stark Soviet architecture

From Samarkand, we switch gears, booking a return train ride via Bookaway to the bustling capital of Uzbekistan: Tashkent. Entering Tashkent feels like stepping into another world. As the largest city in Central Asia, home to over 2 million people, Tashkent is a vibrant metropolis with a unique character. Unlike the historic charm of Khiva, Bukhara, and Samarkand, Tashkent was almost entirely rebuilt after a devastating earthquake in the 1960s by Soviet architects. Here, you find stark Soviet architecture: flaked apartment blocks, concrete squares, and imposing statues. Yet, amidst this austere backdrop, Tashkent reveals its lively spirit with bustling parks, charming coffee shops, excellent restaurants, a Dutch-speaking falafel vendor, and a cozy street atmosphere.

Although Tashkent did not capture our hearts in the same way as the ancient Silk Road cities, it offers a welcome contrast and a refreshing change of pace. One of the highlights of our visit was the mesmerizing ballet performance “Lazgi” about the Silk Road, performed by the Uzbek national ballet. The performance was so moving, it might even have brought us to tears…

Our past lives and future plans feel like distant echoes as we immerse ourselves in the present moment in Uzbekistan. Here, each day is a new adventure, filled with the thrill of planning our next destination and covering kilometers toward our daily goals. It’s a blissfully relaxed existence, a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle. However, eventually the mind craves new challenges as well. It’s not a lifestyle that would suit us for years on end.

Car trouble in Uzbekistan

Returning to our car after a few days, we’re greeted by a disheartening sight: a puddle of oil pooling beneath it. We rush to the nearest garage, relieved to find they accept us without an appointment (as they always do in this region). The mechanic conducts a thorough inspection and uncovers a leaking oil seal in the transfer case and a gasket in the steering box that needs replacing. Thankfully, these aren’t catastrophic issues, but there’s a catch—he doesn’t have the necessary parts. In Uzbekistan, where 95% of cars are Chevrolet or Daewoo, finding Toyota parts is like searching for a needle in a haystack.

Undeterred, the mechanic advises us to head to Panjakent, just across the border in Tajikistan, where Toyotas are more common. He tops up the transfer case oil, we stock up on power steering fluid, and with a sense of determined adventure, we hasten towards the border with Tajikistan.

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