Char Is Far

Exploring Georgia By Camper: The Perfect 2-Week Itinerary (Including Wild Camping Spots)

Charelle — Mon, 08 Dec 2025 21:48:25 +0000

We hand the wheel to guest bloggers Chantal and Donny. Georgia is one of those countries we couldn’t really picture until we actually rolled in with our self-built 2WD camper. We had a rough idea of mountains, wine and questionable drivers, but Georgia turned out wilder than expected. In this blog we take you along our favourite 2-week itinerary through Georgia, including the wild camping spots we loved most. We’ll also share practical tips for planning your own camper trip to Georgia. The country is getting more popular every year, but there are still so many places far away from the usual tourist trails. Whether you arrive with your own camper, rent one here or explore the country in a different way, we hope our itinerary helps you discover the raw side of Georgia that most travellers miss. Driving yourself in Georgia: walkie talkies and potholes so big they can swallow a bike For a bit, we traveled with other camper friends and used walkie talkies to talk to each other on the road. At first, we pointed out mountain views and begged for coffee breaks. After a while the conversation shrank to a single word: pothole. Sometimes even every few seconds. Our English friend nailed it with two lines we still repeat today. “Potholes so big they can swallow a bike.” And: “In the UK we drive on the left, in Georgia they drive on what is left.” Unfortunately, he wasn’t joking. In some stretches you zigzag as if you are playing an old Nintendo game. The condition of the tarmac is nothing to brag about, many drivers seem to have found their drivers license at the back of a cereal box and half of the cars in Georgia are missing a bumper. Some fell off, others were removed on purpose so there is nothing left to damage. The funny thing is, once you get used to it, driving in Georgia is completely fine. So don’t worry too much about it. Roads have improved a lot and if you keep your pace relaxed, you get almost everywhere. For this 2-week itinerary you really don’t need a 4×4 at all. You can reach everything with a 2WD camper just fine. Are you looking for a 4WD itinerary instead? Check out this blog. Renting a car or camper in Georgia A quick word of caution about rental cars and campers in Georgia: some companies forbid off-road driving or exclude whole regions, and they rarely mention that clearly on their website. Always ask before you book. Through this website you know for sure you get a trustworthy, local, English speaking company with – most importantly – reliable and strong cars. If you want to explore Georgia in true overland style, take a look at the UAZ Buhanka 4×4 campers from Joris. We’re definitely in love. One other thing to keep in mind: if you enter Georgia with your own foreign vehicle, you can stay a full year as a tourist, but your vehicle is only allowed to remain in the country for ninety days. Vehicles over 3.5 tons officially get just sixty days, unless your truck camper is registered as a light vehicle. The customs officer decides this right at the border, so always check when you roll in. An international driving license is recommended, although not required. It might help with language issues when dealing with police or rental companies. And if you want to explore the parts of Georgia most travellers never reach, get this off-road travel guide by Ountravela. It includes the best off-road, 4×4 routes in the country and gives clear, detailed instructions on how to navigate them. This means you can focus on the adventure instead of guessing your way through the mountains. We honestly can’t recommend their guide enough. Olivia and Victor, the authors, spent years driving every track, testing every itinerary and documenting every corner of Georgia. Their book is a no-brainer if you want to make the most of your trip. Our 2-week Georgia itinerary with a camper While we rolled into Georgia, our red cat sat proudly on the dashboard, confusing the border guards so much that they forgot to ask half the usual questions. We were about to explore Georgia with our own camper for the upcoming weeks. We didn’t know it back then, but traveling through Georgia isn’t smooth or predictable. It’s a bit rough around the edges, full of surprises and gives you the kind of freedom that makes vanlife fun. Our 2-week itinerary took us from Tbilisi’s hip streets to national parks that looked like savannah. We tasted qvevri wine, soaked in outdoor hot springs and even got stuck on an abandoned Soviet airfield with our van. Read on to discover our favorite places and the best wild camping spots this country has to offer. Tbilisi: hipster city with a rough edge (day 1-2: Georgia itinerary) We kicked off our time in Georgia with a bit of a bang in Tbilisi. The city surprises you in the best way. Old wooden balconies hang out over crumbling facades, and just a few streets away someone brews a flat white that would fit right into Melbourne. Graffiti, messy markets, tiny craft breweries, hipster skate parks, loud nightlife and quiet courtyards all exist happily side by side. We parked our camper at the Holy Trinity Cathedral (Park4Night: 127272). High up, surprisingly calm and close enough to walk into town. At Restaurant Home Kitchen nearby, we ate food that that came straight from a Georgian grandma’s stove Later we wandered through Dedaena Skatepark, where skateboarders, street musicians and families move around each other like a play that is performed every night. You can grab a cold local beer here and some easy street food. The next morning, we took the cable car up to Mtatsminda Park. At the top you find an old amusement park where you don’t pay an entrance fee, only the rides you feel like trying. Our recommendation: the giant ferris wheel with a view that stretches over the whole city. If you like creative spots, head to Fabrika in the evening. It’s a former factory that now houses quirky bars, street food stalls and art galleries. And if you are into techno, a night at Bassiani is something you will not forget easily. A short drive outside the city took us to Mtskheta, a town so photogenic that bridal couples line up in front of the church. We had a great meal in the garden at Check In Garden, right by the water. And yes, we tried wine ice cream. It tastes exactly as you imagine: wine, but cold. We spent the night at the guarded parking next to town (Park4Night: 318239). The location is perfect, although it can get a little noisy. Kakheti: the oldest wine region in the world (day 3-4: Georgia itinerary) Kakheti is the heart of Georgian wine culture and often described as the oldest wine region in the world. At Vineria Kakheti we went down into the cool wine cellars while the winemaker, already quite tipsy but very entertaining, guided us through 6 wines and 2 spirits. All for just a few euros per person. Dinner afterwards was khachapuri, the famous bread with cheese and egg, plus more wine, for about 12 euros each. We were even allowed to stay the night in our camper in front of the winery. The next morning you can make a quick stop at the abandoned castle in Didi Chailuri, where you get wide views of the vineyards. If you or someone in your group stayed sober at the vineria, you can also choose to set up camp here instead of at the winery. For lunch we drove our camper to Sighnaghi, the “City of Love”, a hilltop town full of traditional wooden balconies, winding streets and sweeping views of the valley below. It’s touristy, but in a pleasant way. The recent restoration makes it look like a little film set. In the afternoon, continue your Georgia trip towards Vashlovani National Park. Vashlovani: permits, mud and snakes (day 5: Georgia itinerary) Vashlovani National Park in the far south feels like a completely different Georgia. Not the postcard version with snowy peaks and wine terraces, but a raw and desolate semi desert. Dogs are not allowed into Vashlovani, due to the many herding dogs and snakes. Also, big trucks are banned to protect the fragile landscape. What’s left is a remote wilderness you can perfectly explore with your camper. Dedoplistskaro is your last stop for food, fuel and cash. After that the world goes silent. At the Vashlovani visitor centre in Dedoplistskaro you arrange the required permit to enter the national park. The fee is small, you show your passport and the staff speaks good English. They will explain your route and point you to the border police checkpoint a few minutes down the road. Once you get your final stamp there, the park opens up for you. We arrived on a rainy day and it did not take long before we were completely stuck in the clay soil. The mud clung to our tyres and refused to let go. In the end our snow chains saved us and we managed to explore most of the park anyway. That evening we camped at Shiraki Military Airfield, an old Soviet runway slowly disappearing into the steppe (Park4Night: 430251). It was silent and empty. We saw more snakes than people and in the morning a herd of wild horses trotted past. Before leaving we couldn’t resist one run over the runway for a few drone shots. A magical corner of Georgia. Just keep a close eye on the weather if you go. If you want to experience this region in a completely different way, here’s our best tip: explore Vashlovani on horseback. This landscape feels completely different when you’re in the saddle. You get closer to wildlife, you reach places you cannot access by camper and you feel the silence of the desert in a way you will remember for years. It’s hands down the most memorable way to explore this region. Read more about this epic semi-desert horseback ride here. The Military Road and the Truso Valley (day 6-8: Georgia itinerary) Day six is a longer driving day towards the north. The Georgian Military Road connects Tbilisi with Russia and winds along gorges, fast rivers and steep Caucasus mountainsides. The route is stunning and tiring at the same time. The tarmac constantly shifts between smooth, bumpy and a full-on mosaic of potholes. Yet, the highlights along the way make it a day you won’t forget. There are plenty of interesting stops along the way. Think of this as your menu: One of the most beautiful side roads off the Military Road is Truso Valley. We parked our camper in the village of Kvemo Okrokana and walked further into the valley. With a 4×4 or a small camper in dry weather you can drive much deeper into it. After a few kilometers, the valley opens up and it feels like you have entered another, remote world. Collapsed towers, colourful mineral deposits and thin smoke rising from old stone houses. At the very end you reach Abano Mineral Lake, where carbonated mineral water bubbles straight out of the earth. Pro tip: you can drink it right from the source. The sulfur pools near Vani (day 9: Georgia itinerary) From the mountains you descend into softer hills and head towards the round sulfur pools near Vani, west of Kutaisi. Little white pools where warm mineral water rises straight from the earth. No ticket booth, no fence, just nature… okay, and the unmistakable smell of rotten eggs. You get used to it though. We parked just above the pools (Park4Night: 185350) and soaked in the warm, bubbling water while the evening air cooled around us. A free jacuzzi in your backyard. What more could you possibly want? Batumi: Pearl of the Black Sea (day...

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Carnet de Passage Explained: The Ultimate Guide for Overland Travel

Charelle — Wed, 17 Sep 2025 13:46:41 +0000

If you’re planning your first big overland trip or dreaming of vanlife routes far off the beaten track, sooner or later you’ll bump into that mysterious document: the Carnet de Passage. It sounds fancy and bureaucratic, especially in French, but really it’s nothing more than a passport for your car or motorbike. When we first learned we needed one for our overland expedition, we had about a thousand questions at once. What is a Carnet de Passage? Why does it cost so much? How do you figure out the Carnet de Passage price or calculate the deposit? And most importantly: where on earth do you apply for it? Our followers keep sending us the same questions, especially about traveling to countries like Iran, so we figured it’s time to write everything down properly. What is a Carnet de Passage? A Carnet de Passage, often shortened to CdP, is basically a promise on paper that your vehicle won’t stay behind in the country you’re visiting. Customs see it as proof that you’re just passing through. In return, they let you bring in your car, van, or motorcycle without charging import taxes. Think of it as a passport, but for your wheels. The document is issued by automobile clubs, for example the ADAC in Germany, and is usually valid for one year. You’ll spot it right away by the bright yellow cover. Inside there’s a whole stack of forms, which get stamped every time you cross a border into or out of a country where a Carnet de Passage is required. For overlanders and anyone living the vanlife dream, it might not be the most exciting part of your trip, but without it you won’t get far in certain regions. From our own experience, that little yellow booklet quickly becomes one of the most important items in your glove compartment. How does a Carnet de Passage work? Not every country trusts your friendly promise to drive your car back home. That’s why a Carnet de Passage deposit is required. When you apply for one, you pay a hefty sum to the automobile club that issues the document. They keep that money safe until you return from your trip with the carnet fully stamped. Here’s how it works on the road: every time you enter a country where a carnet is required, a page in your yellow booklet gets stamped. When you leave, you get another stamp. Together these prove that your vehicle didn’t mysteriously stay behind. Only when you hand back a complete carnet do you see your deposit again. If, for whatever reason, your car doesn’t leave the country with you – even because of an accident, theft, or if you’re forced to abandon it – the automobile club uses your deposit to cover the import duties and taxes. It’s basically a guarantee for customs and the reason you can cross borders into certain Carnet de Passage countries without endless paperwork or arguments at the gate. In which countries is a Carnet de Passage required? The good news: you don’t need a carnet everywhere. In many countries a simple temporary import permit at the border will do. But in some regions, a Carnet de Passage is non-negotiable. Without it, your road trip ends right there at the gate. As of September 2025, the carnet is required in the following countries: Asia & Oceania Pakistan IndiaNepalBangladeshIndonesiaJapanAustraliaNew Zealand Middle East LebanonIraqIranKuwaitQatarUnited Arab EmiratesOman Africa South SudanKenyaMalawiNamibiaBotswanaEswatiniLesothoSouth Africa A carnet is also recommended in many other places. The list of Carnet de Passage countries changes regularly, so it’s smart to check before you leave. The ADAC keeps an up-to-date overview and even a handy Carnet de Passage map showing where the document is required or advised. Applying for a Carnet de Passage in Europe: ADAC vs other options Normally you apply for a Carnet de Passage in the country where your vehicle is registered. But if your car is European, you’re not limited to just your home country. You can choose from several automobile clubs across Europe, each with its own rules. In Spain, for example, the Carnet de Passage deposit is lower, but you’ll need a Spanish bank account in your own name. In Bulgaria you even have to be a resident. So the conditions depend entirely on which club you apply through. We decided to get our carnet through the ADAC in Germany, which is also the organization recommended by the Dutch automobile club ANWB. Our experience with them was excellent: a small, professional team, easy to reach by phone, and always willing to help. When Belgian customs messed up the stamps after our car was shipped back to Europe, the ADAC really went out of their way to fix it for us. The downside? The Carnet de Passage price at the ADAC is on the higher side because the deposit is linked to the value of your vehicle (more on that later). That’s why many overlanders choose a cheaper option, such as the ÚAMK in the Czech Republic. They’re known for lower costs, although the process is a bit less straightforward. If you’re curious, you can email them directly at sekretariat@uamk.cz to check the exact requirements and fees. Carnet de Passage costs The big question everyone asks: what does a Carnet de Passage cost? Unfortunately, the answer isn’t as straightforward as we’d like. There are always two parts: Take the ADAC in Germany as an example. They’re known for excellent service, but also for relatively high deposits. The ADAC works with three categories: Then comes the value of your vehicle. Let’s say your car is worth between €25,000 and €50,000. The Carnet de Passage deposit would be: Motorcycles and trailers are usually cheaper, and for campers or vans the ADAC may even ask for a valuation report to confirm the price. You declare the value yourself, but they want proof if you’re driving something bigger. As you can imagine, if your vehicle is worth a lot, paying such a huge deposit isn’t always realistic. That’s why many overlanders look at cheaper alternatives like the ÚAMK in the Czech Republic. For their latest rates and application steps, it’s best to contact them directly at sekretariat@uamk.cz. How does a Carnet de Passage work at a border? Crossing a border with a Carnet de Passage looks simple on paper, but in reality it can be a bit of a circus. When you enter a country where the carnet is mandatory, you hand the yellow booklet to customs. They flip to the next available page and start stamping. Each page has three parts: On entry, customs stamp the top and the import strip, then tear out the import strip for their records. On exit, they stamp the top and the export strip, then tear out the export strip. Together, the stamps in the top strip form proof that your vehicle entered and left the country. So the top strip is the most important for you. It remains in your carnet and later shows the automobile club that your car, van, or bike didn’t stay behind. Only with a fully stamped carnet do you get your Carnet de Passage deposit back. One tip from the road: never assume the customs officer knows how it works. Even in countries where a carnet is required, we’ve had to point at the right box and explain where the stamp should go. So always check carefully, especially when leaving. If that top strip doesn’t get stamped, it’s your deposit on the line. Carnet de Passage extension: What to do when the 12-month validity expires? A Carnet de Passage usually comes with a 12-month validity. That works for most trips, but what if your overland or vanlife journey stretches beyond a year? In that case you need to extend your carnet or apply for a follow-up carnet. It sounds like a hassle, but in practice it’s fairly straightforward. Good to know: An extended carnet is only valid in the country where it’s extended. That means you can use it to leave that country, but not to keep traveling on. If you want to continue your journey, you’ll need a follow-up carnet instead. With that, you get a brand-new booklet valid for another 12 months, so you can travel freely again. We applied for a follow-up carnet with the ADAC in Germany after a year and were surprised how quickly the new booklet arrived by mail. The good news: your Carnet de Passage deposit stays the same. You only pay the administrative fee and shipping costs again. Just make sure you apply at least four weeks before your old carnet expires. The new carnet will also be valid for another twelve months. If you’re still abroad when it’s time for renewal, ADAC can even ship your carnet by DHL for an extra fee. In the end you return both booklets, fully stamped, so your deposit can be refunded. If you applied through another automobile club, the process may be slightly different. Best to check directly with them for the exact procedure. Carnet de Passage: The passport for your vehicle A Carnet de Passage might not be the most fun part of preparing for your trip, but it truly is your vehicle’s passport. Without it, many borders in Asia, Africa, and the Middle East simply won’t open. Applying takes time, money, and sometimes a bit of patience, yet once you’re at the border you’ll be glad that little yellow booklet is in your hands. Still have questions about the Carnet de Passage cost, the deposit, or how it works in countries like Iran? Drop them in the comments below and we’ll try to help. And if you’re looking for more inspiration and practical advice, check out our other blogs on overland travel or read our travel journals from the road. Follow us on Instagram for real-time updates on our overland travels, and a lot more photos and videos from the road!

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Driving to Thailand with your own car: Foreign Vehicle Permit and border crossing guide

Charelle — Thu, 07 Aug 2025 14:38:46 +0000

We’ve crossed quite a few borders during our overland expedition, but driving to Thailand? That one made us sweat a little more than usual. Not because of the heat (though… that too), but because of the paperwork. If you’re planning to drive your own car, campervan, or motorbike into Thailand, there’s one thing you should know: you can’t just show up at the border and wing it. Not anymore, anyway. Thailand takes its border rules seriously these days. That means applying in advance, getting the right documents in place, and understanding how a Foreign Vehicle Permit (FVP) fits into the whole process. Don’t worry though, there’s now help available (hello FVP Thailand!), that didn’t exist back when we did it. Can I import my car to Thailand? First off, let’s get something out of the way: yes, you can drive your foreign-registered car into Thailand. But technically, no, you’re not importing it permanently. What you’re doing is bringing it in temporarily, under a special permission called a Temporary Import Permit (TIP) for a foreign vehicle. Thailand is known for being a bit strict when it comes to border crossings with your own vehicle. Unlike in Laos or Cambodia, where showing up at the border and filling in some local paperwork often does the trick, Thailand wants you to apply in advance for permission to drive your vehicle on Thai roads. And trust us: don’t try to wing it at the border. We met people who tried. And failed. Thailand tightened the rules in 2024, and for a while, most overlanders couldn’t get their vehicles in anymore. Luckily, two legends, Chris and Tim from FVP Thailand, stepped in and saved the day. They set up a super handy website that helps you arrange all the paperwork you need to enter Thailand with your foreign car or motorbike. It’s so much easier now, thanks to them. What is a Foreign Vehicle Permit (FVP)? The FVP is the key that unlocks your ability to legally drive a foreign vehicle on Thai roads. It’s a government-issued pre-approval document that allows you to obtain your Temporary Import Permit at the border. Without it, the border agents simply won’t let your vehicle in. We’ve heard stories of travelers having to park their bikes or vans at the border and figure out a solution from a nearby town, or even head back into one of the neighboring countries. Not fun, and definitely not the start to your Thailand adventure you were hoping for. Use the services of FVP Thailand to arrange all the required documentation in advance. What paperwork do you need for driving to Thailand? Here’s the basic overview of what’s required: On top of that, of course there are the usual border crossing suspects: passport, visa (depending on your nationality), driving license and registration documents of your car. When we rolled up to the Thai border from Cambodia, we asked around in travel groups to figure out which border crossing would be the easiest. Apparently, some customs offices are a bit more relaxed than others. It still took a mountain of copies and a bit of patience, but we made it through without too much drama. And without a Foreign Vehicle Permit. That said, things have gotten stricter since then. These days, Thai authorities expect everything to be arranged and approved ahead of time. No more winging it, unfortunately. Save yourself the stress: use FVP Thailand When we crossed the Thai border, FVP Thailand didn’t exist yet. We had to figure everything out ourselves (and with a lot of help from David Goodchild), which meant hours of research, double-checking rules that changed depending on the source, and printing an endless stack of documents “just in case.” It worked out in the end, but it definitely wasn’t stress-free. If we were doing it again now? We wouldn’t hesitate to get help. FVP Thailand takes care of the entire process: from applying for your foreign vehicle permit to communicating with Thai authorities and preparing the exact paperwork you need. They’ve built a super simple online application system that lets you apply for your FVP ahead of time, from anywhere in the world. We’ve seen too many people get stuck at the border or turned away altogether. If we were doing it again, we wouldn’t think twice. Got more questions about overlanding in Southeast Asia? Let us know in the comments, we’re happy to help. Follow the expedition on Instagram for real-time updates, and a lot more photos and videos!Note: Some links in this post are affiliate links.

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Overland Journal Day 232-233: We drove from the Netherlands to Singapore!

Charelle — Thu, 31 Jul 2025 15:23:47 +0000

We roll into Singapore in disbelief. This is it. The final stop. The dot at the end of the line we’ve been tracing across the map for months. And somehow… it still doesn’t feel real. We’re euphoric, of course. We’ve actually done it. Driven all the way from the Netherlands to Singapore in our Toyota 4Runner, overland, across 22 countries. That’s wild. And yet, there’s this strange echo in the background: is it really over? Because we don’t want it to be. The road may have ended, but inside, everything’s still moving. The people we met, the borders we crossed, the things we saw. They’ve shifted something in us. And the idea of simply going back to a so-called “normal” life? Haha. Yeah, no thanks. So, now what? Getting into Singapore with a foreign car From Tioman, we make a beeline for Singapore. We’re so close now that we can practically smell the city skyline. No more scenic detours or lazy beach mornings. We’re on a mission. What once felt like a far-fetched dream, an “imagine if,” is suddenly within reach. But crossing into Singapore with your own vehicle? That’s a whole different game. We’ve been emailing, calling, and filling out forms for months, trying to sort out the paperwork. You need at the very least: And that Autopass? You can’t even apply for it without a valid Carnet de Passage and all of the above documents in hand. No online shortcuts, no courier service, no friendly fixer at the border. You have to show up in person, in Singapore, at least a week before you want to cross the border, with your original paperwork. We considered it, seriously. Even looked at flights. But the thought of spending several hundred dollars and flying into Singapore just to arrange a 48-hour car visit? It felt ridiculous. So we made the only decision that made sense: we leave the 4Runner at the border. After all this time together, it’s strange to walk away from it, even temporarily. But hey, our car earned a break too. Trying to cross the border without the right papers (cannot recommend) Still, we can’t help ourselves. After 35.000 kilometers on the road, it feels absurd to stop now. So when we reach Johor Bahru, the border town just across from Singapore, we decide to go for it. We know we don’t have the proper documents, but maybe – just maybe – we can sweet-talk our way through? Bad idea. At the border post, it quickly becomes clear that this plan has some flaws. For starters, there’s no turning around. Once you’re in the checkpoint flow, you’re committed. A customs officer spots the missing paperwork right away. And technically, we’re not even allowed to return to Malaysia. “We know we don’t have the proper documents, but maybe we can sweet-talk our way through? Bad idea. At the border, it quickly becomes clear that this plan has some flaws.“ What follows is a round of forms, confused faces, and a growing line behind us. Eventually, with the help of some surprisingly patient officials, we get funneled into the so-called “reject lane.” A less-than-glorious end to our border experiment, but at least we’re not in trouble. We park the 4Runner at a hotel just outside the checkpoint and repack for the final stretch. A short city trip, this time without our home on wheels. Singapore, here we come. Seasoned travelers? The next morning we wake up early, determined not to mess up our border crossing a second time. We’re taking the train into Singapore now. Easy, right? We follow every sign that says “Singapore,” confidently hauling our bags through customs. Only… something feels off. There’s no train platform. Just buses. Turns out we’ve ended up at the bus station, not the train station. And our train leaves in fifteen minutes. Classic. Panic mode is on. We dash back through customs and try to explain that we’re in the wrong place, even though we followed every single “Singapore” sign. We’re allowed to return to Malaysia, but that would mean missing our train. And every other one is already fully booked. So we do the only thing we can: we walk to the bus platform with no ticket and hope for the best. Miraculously, we manage to buy two seats on the spot. There’s still space. We’re in. You’d think after 8 months on the road we’d have learned a thing or two. But this morning feels like a rookie backpacking blunder. And we’re not done yet. At Singapore immigration, Charelle makes things worse by pulling out her phone to film the moment. After so long on the road, she just wanted to capture it. Our final border crossing. But this is Singapore. A customs officer appears next to her instantly and tells her to delete the footage. Thankfully, that’s all. They call it the fine city for a reason. Littering, chewing gum, forgetting to flush. The list of things you can be fined or even jailed for is long. Definitely not how we want this expedition to end. Time to play by the rules again. We made it. The final destination. It’s day 232 of the expedition. We’ve driven exactly 33.915 kilometers to get here. And here is Singapore. But as you know, it was never about the destination. That was just where the line ended when we traced it on the map. What we really wanted was a goal big enough to scare us. One that stretched far beyond our comfort zone. It was about everything in between. The fairytale towers of Neuschwanstein in Germany. The wild coastline of the Balkans. Istanbul, where Europe melts into Asia. The golden domes of the Imam Reza Shrine in Iran. The surreal white marble of Ashgabat. The Pamir Highway, snaking through jagged mountain passes in Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. The endless expanse of the Gobi Desert. The silent army of terracotta warriors in China. The grandeur of Angkor Wat in Cambodia. It’s hard to wrap our heads around the fact that this is the end. That we’ve been moving toward this point for months. We feel euphoric. Proud. Lucky. But there’s also something else. A soft restlessness. Because it doesn’t feel finished. This chapter might be closing, but the journey – the one inside us – is far from over. The southernmost point of continental Asia Singapore hits us like a brick wall of reality. Not because it’s rough, but because it’s so polished, so efficient, so… much. We’re out of the car now, and suddenly everything feels different. No more quiet roadside lunches or slow village mornings. We’re back in the world of public transport and packed platforms. People rush by with furrowed brows, barely looking up from their phones. It feels like culture shock, but it’s not even cultural. It’s pace shock. Was it like this back home too? We slip into full tourist mode. Even though we were here 11 years ago, we check off all the classics. And of course, we head straight to the southernmost point of continental Asia. That tiny spot on the map where the Asian mainland officially ends. There’s a sign, some palm trees, and a view over the sea. We take way too many photos. Then we just stand there for a moment. We actually did it. We drove here. From the Netherlands. Our eyes fill with tears as we stare at the horizon. This really is the end of the road. That night, we let ourselves be swept up in the glitz and glow of Singapore. We watch the lights dance on the avatar trees in Gardens by the Bay. We stop at Marina Bay Sands, where the fountains put on a show like it’s their job. And we toast, Singapore Sling in hand, in the neon-lit buzz of Clarke Quay. What. A. Trip. This is just the beginning So… that’s it? We’ve reached our final destination and now we’re supposed to slide back into our “normal” lives? Haha. As if. In just 8 months, we’ve lived a lifetime. We’ve laughed until our faces hurt, cried behind the wheel, made friends we’ll never forget, and collected more memories than we know what to do with. The world cracked open for us, and we walked right in. There’s no undoing a journey like this. It’s not something you fold up and put away like a holiday brochure. It sits with you. Changes how you see things. You notice different possibilities now. New questions. Quiet longings you can’t ignore anymore. We actually did it. We drove from the Netherlands to Singapore. And 2024 was easily the best year of our lives. So much freedom. So many moments of pure joy. And love, more than we ever imagined. We feel insanely lucky to be able to do this together. Thank you for following along. For cheering us on. For being part of it all. And yes… the dreaming has already started again. Of new roads, new lands, new stories waiting to be lived. One thing’s certain: this overland life isn’t ending. It’s only just getting started. Follow the expedition on Instagram for real-time updates, and a lot more photos and videos!Note: Some links in this post are affiliate links.

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Overland Journal Day 204-231: Road Trip Malaysia

Charelle — Wed, 02 Jul 2025 12:23:12 +0000

After a mess of paperwork at the border, we finally roll into Malaysia. In Kuala Lumpur we pick up a friend and set off on a 2-week road trip through the country’s highlights: jungle cruises in Taman Negara, misty hikes in tea plantations of the Cameron Highlands, street food and colonial old-town vibes in Georgetown, and scooter rides along Langkawi’s tropical coastline. When our friend flies home, we dive deeper into the country’s lush, humid interior. We cross from west to east, the road swallowed by rainforest and palm plantations. Somewhere along the way, we stop off on dreamy Tioman Island. And in the middle of it all, we get bumped by a truck. The first car collision of the expedition. Classic timing, just as we’re nearly there. Singapore is next. The end point of our entire overland expedition. The finish line we’ve been crawling towards for months. It still doesn’t feel real. Crossing the border from Thailand to Malaysia with your own car Leaving Thailand is a breeze. A few stamps, a quick look at the car, and we’re off. But as we roll into Malaysia, things get tangled fast. Passport control? Easy. Customs? Not so much. They frown at our Carnet de Passage: the document required to temporarily import our car into the country. Quite surprising, considering Malaysia is one of the few countries in the world where this document is actually required. After a couple of phone calls and confused stares, they tell us we first need an International Circulation Permit from the Ministry of Transport. Only then will they stamp the carnet. Without that stamp, we’re not officially allowed in. Luckily, there’s a ministry office right at the border. But then the next catch: they won’t issue the permit unless we have Malaysian car insurance. And that insurance? Only available if you’re already in the country. Which we’re not. Because we’re not allowed in. Back to Thailand then? No chance. Thailand won’t let us re-enter either. We’re stuck in limbo. Bureaucracy at its finest. Getting car insurance for our Malaysia road trip After hours of circling through rules and refusals, someone at the ministry finally mentions a contact who might be able to help us get Malaysian car insurance. We call him together, but he’s not in the mood to come to the border. That’s when the ministry bends the rules for us. We’re given temporary permission to enter Malaysia, just long enough to visit a nearby shopping mall and sort out the insurance. Then we have to return immediately to wrap things up. It feels like we’re sneaking in through the back door, but of course we nod enthusiastically. For other overlanders: please arrange your car insurance in advance when going to Malaysia. If you’re crossing the border INTO Thailand, check our FVP Thailand. They’ll sort all the required paperwork for you to get your vehicle into the country. At the mall, the shop of our phone contact is closed. Instead, 3 kids are waiting for us. “Do you maybe need car insurance?” they ask. Um… yes? They guide us to someone who arranges a 1-month insurance for us. We don’t ask too many questions. After all this time, we’re just grateful anything is happening at all. With insurance in hand, everything suddenly clicks into place. Back at the border, we’re given the International Circulation Permit, and our Carnet de Passage gets its much-needed stamp. After 5 long hours, we finally drive officially into Malaysia. 7 months on the road. Country number 21. The odometer reads 30,960 kilometers. And Singapore is just around the corner. We keep glancing at each other, half-laughing, half in disbelief. It hasn’t sunk in. Not even close. Trip down memory lane in Kuala Lumpur 11 years ago, we wandered through Malaysia as fresh-faced backpackers. What stuck with us most? The food. Still does. So, on our first morning back, we waste no time and hunt down a roti canai with iced lemon tea for a few cents. Probably the national breakfast. Still ridiculously good. Still capable of turning us into grinning fools at 8 a.m. We head straight to Kuala Lumpur and easily find a place to stay. For 30 euros a night, we end up in a four-person apartment on the edge of the city center, with a view of the Petronas Twin Towers and more facilities than we know what to do with. Two pools, a jacuzzi, mini golf, a sauna and a gym. We don’t need most of it, but it feels rude not to at least dip a toe. We take a quick stroll down memory lane, revisiting old spots. Chinatown stands out, mostly because we barely recognize it. The gritty charm has been replaced with sleek cafés, LED signage, and corners clearly designed for selfies. The soul feels different now. But then again, having decent iced coffee on every street corner isn’t the worst trade-off. Charelle goes on a mission to find a batik shirt she bought 11 years ago and wore until it fell apart. She shows the photo around, hopeful, but is mostly met with laughter. “Totally out of fashion,” they tell her again and again. Loud and clear. Some things are better left in the past. Monsoon mayhem and a leaky sunroof Since arriving in Southeast Asia, the 4Runner has taken a bit of a beating. It’s rainy season now, and the sky doesn’t mess around. We’re talking full-on tropical downpours, the kind that turn roads into rivers. We watch cars around us getting swallowed in the flood. At first, we think we’re staying dry. Then, during a right turn, a cold trickle hits the brake pedal. Not good. Soon we spot water pooling near the driver’s seat. Definitely not good. We make our way back to Ironman, the off-road shop that saved us back in Bangkok. As we plough through yet more flooded streets, the leak gets worse. Thankfully, the Ironman crew finds the culprit right away: the sunroof. Or what’s left of it anyway, it hasn’t opened in ages. They send us to a specialist nearby who doesn’t hesitate. He seals it shut from the outside, no fuss, no appointment. Fixed in one afternoon. It’s that kind of MacGyver magic we’ll probably miss most when we’re back in The Netherlands. No forms, no waiting, no drama. Just: problem, solution, done. Road trip Malaysia with our friend For 2 weeks, we’ve got a travel buddy in the back seat. Nina, a good friend from home, flies into Kuala Lumpur to join us. After 7 months on the road, it feels incredibly good to see a familiar face again. She steps right into our expedition like it’s no big deal. We love that. When we arrive at the apartment, Nina is stunned. She didn’t expect that 12 euros per night per person would get her a skyline view, two swimming pools, a sauna, a gym, and more space than we know what to do with. We’ve slowly adjusted to this low-cost life, but for her, coming straight from The Netherlands, it’s a bit of a shock. The good kind. Taman Negara The 3 of us hit the road. First stop is Taman Negara, one of the oldest rainforests in the world. It’s rainy season, and the leeches are throwing a party. Mid-hike, we find ourselves flicking them off one by one. Gross, but also kind of hilarious. The jungle hums with life. Monkeys swing above us, we visit a local tribe, and drift off each night to the sound of frogs, crickets, and rain. Exploring the streets of George Town, Penang From there, we head to the misty tea fields of the Cameron Highlands, sip one too many cocktails in Georgetown’s colonial streets, and cruise around Langkawi on scooters. That’s where Charelle turns 32. Her first birthday on a beach in October. We get balloons, cake, and a fancy dinner at the best place on the island. Definitely one to remember. Cameron Highlands It’s funny. Charelle used to struggle with getting older. 30 felt like a deadline. The whole house-job-baby checklist loomed large. But what if you want something else? Since we started this road trip, that feeling has shifted. People we meet often say, “You’re doing all this already? At your age?” And the answer is yes. Our biggest dream has already come true. We’re on a trip around the world. No more fear of missing out. Just the joy of living it. Langkawi Island Our first car collision of the overland expedition After 2 weeks of jungle hikes, scooter rides, and birthday cake, we say goodbye to Nina. We drop her off at Langkawi Airport, where she flies back to The Netherlands. Just like that, it’s the two of us again, still heading towards Singapore. On the ferry back to the mainland, we’re parked neatly on the car deck, engine off, minding our own business. Then the ramp opens. In typical ferry fashion, everyone wants to leave at once. The truck in front of us starts backing up slowly. Marcel honks. Nothing. The truck keeps coming. And then… bam. Our very first collision of the expedition. Before we even get out, the truck speeds off. But we’re not having it. Marcel hits the gas, catches up at the first traffic light, and blocks the truck with the 4Runner. We hop out, point at the bumper, and try to explain what just happened. The damage is minor, a few scratches, but the driver looks confused. Turns out he doesn’t speak a word of English. Great. The truck in front of us starts backing up slowly. Marcel honks. Nothing. The truck keeps coming. And then… bam. Our very first collision of the expedition. Then we remember a business card from a kind Malaysian man we met on the ferry. He had said, “If I can ever do anything for you, let me know.” Well, that didn’t take long. We call him, and since he just got off the ferry as well, he’s driving right behind us. 5 minutes later, he’s at our side, translating like a pro. The truck driver turns out to be genuinely shaken and incredibly apologetic. If we want to file a claim through insurance, we’ll all have to go to the police station. For him, that could get expensive. Really expensive. He’d have to pay everything himself, and it’s clear that’s just not an option. We take another look at the bumper. Just a few scratches. So, we let it go. No forms, no police. Just a nod, a handshake, and a very grateful driver. We turn the engine back on and roll away. First collision of the expedition: check. Let’s keep it at one. Driving through Malaysia’s dense interior We touch ground on the mainland again in northern Malaysia, close to the border with Thailand we crossed earlier. Our car papers were valid for just 1 month, so after a quick pit stop at the border post for new stamps, we’re good to continue. Our goal is simple this time: travel straight through Malaysia’s thickly forested interior, from west coast to east. On our last visit, we skipped this entire region. Now, we’re ready to make up for it. This isn’t the kind of place you find highlighted in travel guides, but maybe that’s why we like it. The roads curve gently through endless green palm plantations and dense rainforest. It’s quiet, peaceful, and wild at heart. In the distance, a waterfall catches our eye. Looks like a great spot for lunch, so we go down a small road to check it out. It turns out we’ve accidentally discovered Stong Waterfall, at 270 meters apparently the tallest in Southeast Asia. No tourist crowds, no souvenir stands, just us and the roar of falling water. We jump in to cool off and enjoy our sandwiches with a front-row view. Lucky find. After 2 days of jungle scenery and winding roads, we finally reach the east coast. We make...

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Overland Journal Day 186-203: Island Hopping in Southern Thailand (Koh Phangan, Koh Tao & Koh Lanta)

Charelle — Sun, 25 May 2025 17:26:09 +0000

We drive into the heart of Southeast Asia’s tourist mecca: the Thai islands. Oat milk lattes flow freely, smoothie bowls are everywhere, and we have to try VERY hard to escape the beaten path. But after some searching, we manage to find a few gems that still feel remote and free. We fall into the rhythm of island life: waking up with the sun, no plans, just seeing what the day brings. In Laos, slowing down felt like a challenge. But by now it’s second nature. Southeast Asia has officially worked its magic on us. Although we still have an important decision to make: What the hell are we going to do after Singapore? What happens when you reach the end of the road, but you’re not ready for it to be over? Sourdough and oat milk in the South After getting our car into Thailand and exploring the north, we steer the 4Runner south. Time for palm trees, sandy beaches and maybe, just maybe, a bit of that dreamy overland feeling? We picture it already: wild camping on a tropical beach, turquoise sea in front of us, fresh coconuts in hand. But that’s easier said than done. It’s probably not a shocker, but Thailand’s south is very touristy. Getting off the beaten track? Not as easy as it sounds. We find out fast during our first night in Hua Hin. Instead of a quiet seaside stop, we find ourselves in a bustling town with shopping malls, massage joints, resorts, tourist menus and bars lined with Thai “hostesses”. On the upside: sourdough toast with avocado and an iced oat milk latte for breakfast. So yeah, we might be deep in tourist land, but at least the hipster café game is strong. As we sip our coffees, we almost forget we’re on a rugged, raw and wild overland expedition. Almost. The night we almost camped We’re craving that real overland feeling again. Sleeping under the stars, hearing the waves, waking up with the sun in our tent. After weeks of rain in Laos and northern Thailand, today is finally clear. Blue skies, warm breeze, no excuses. We’re going camping. Wild camping is technically not allowed in Thailand, but there are a few official campsites here and there. Good enough. We pick one, pack the car, and head out, excited for a night back in nature. But when we arrive, we’re greeted by a swarm of mosquitos so thick you can hear them coming. On top of that, the campsite turns out to be more expensive than the hotel down the street. That’s a first. Back to hotel life it is. Later that evening, we eat at a nearly empty beach bar just around the corner. It’s quiet, the lights are dim, and the beach is completely deserted. The sky is clear, filled with stars, and for a moment we just sit there, soaking it all in. In the distance, we spot a little 4×4 track winding its way down to the sand. And we both think the same thing: this was the spot. This is where we should’ve camped. Tent under the palm trees, fire crackling, waves in the background. If only we’d found it a few hours earlier. Oh well. There’s always tomorrow. What happens when we reach Singapore? Somewhere between mouthfuls of massaman curry and sticky grains of rice, the question hits us. Not “what are we eating next” for once, but: what happens when we get to Singapore? It’s only 1500 kilometers away now. That number feels unreal. For so long, the road was endless. The adventure always stretched out in front of us, full of unknowns and border crossings and breakdowns and deserts. And deep down, we weren’t even sure we’d make it this far. People warned us again and again: “You’ll never manage to drive to Singapore.” But here we are. Sand between our toes. Finish line on the horizon. And to be honest… we never really planned for this part. Singapore was always a distant dream. A “maybe someday.” A dot on the map, way off in the future. But now it’s starting to feel real. And that’s kind of scary. Going back to The Netherlands feels strange. Landing right into November, straight into winter? No thanks. Australia then? Sounds epic. Until we looked up what it costs to ship and temporarily import the car. Fifteen. Thousand. Euros. Yeah… not quite that epic. What about staying in Southeast Asia for a while? Just… slow down. Hibernate somewhere with beaches and smoothies. Sounds great on paper, but Marcel is not built for this climate. The humidity turns every task into a sweaty mission, and hopping from airco to airco isn’t exactly the adventure we’re chasing. Because that’s what we’re missing. The raw, wild, edge-of-your-seat feeling we had in Iran. Or in Turkmenistan, where the desert swallowed the road. Or high up in Tajikistan, where the mountains felt like they belonged to another planet. What we really want? The Middle East. Oman. Saudi Arabia. The stuff overlander dreams are made of. Empty desert tracks, wild camping under star-filled skies, and that perfect winter weather. It sounds like exactly what we’re craving. But then reality kicks in. The region is tense. Israel bombed Hezbollah in Lebanon just days ago. There’s war in Palestine. Attacks from Yemen and Iraq. It’s a mess. And as much as we want to go, we don’t know if we should. Or even can. So, we walk back to our hotel, heads spinning, hearts tugging in different directions. No answers yet. One thing’s for sure though: we’re nearly in Singapore, but this journey is far from over. On to Koh Phangan: our first ferry crossing The next morning marks a small first. After all these months on the road, we finally drive the 4Runner onto a ferry. Destination: Koh Phangan. A tropical island with a big name and an even bigger full moon party reputation. As we cross the water, the sun starts to set and the whole sky turns deep orange. One of those sunsets that makes you stop talking for a bit. Two and a half hours later, we drive off the ferry and onto island soil. It doesn’t take long to realise this isn’t some untouched paradise. Koh Phangan is buzzing. Tourists everywhere, beach bars stacked along the coast, scooters weaving through narrow roads. And yes, every café proudly serves oat milk. That says enough. Still, we’re not giving up. When we wake up the next morning we have one mission: We’re going to find a camping spot. No matter what. With a few insider tips from the Portuguese owner at the breakfast bar, we start exploring. We zigzag across the island looking for quiet corners, empty beaches, and any forgotten patch of land where we might tuck ourselves away. We find a vacant lot beside a kitesurfing school, apparently owned by neighbours who are never around. Then another spot behind a beachside massage shack, tucked under swaying palms. Both are fine for one night, but they’re not quite what we had in mind. The island is simply too full. Resorts line the coast, music pumps from every direction, and it’s hard to find even a moment of stillness. But we’ve been through worse, and we’re not calling it just yet. Somewhere on this island, a hidden corner is waiting. We just have to look a little harder. Paradise found in Southern Thailand As a last attempt, we bump down a rough off-road trail toward Bottle Beach. It’s the only beach on Koh Phangan that requires a 4×4 vehicle to reach it. That alone gives us hope. And yes, this is the one. We’ve found paradise. There’s a small wooden resort right on the sand, with a grassy patch tucked behind it. We take a chance and ask the staff if we can pitch our tent. They’re instantly enthusiastic about our trip from The Netherlands and say yes without hesitation. We park under a tree, right next to the toilet block and the restaurant, which turns out to be a very welcome luxury. Just twenty steps to the sea, snorkelling straight from our front door, and a level bit of sand to cook dinner. It feels almost too good to be real. In the evening, a group of Brits shows up. The staff kicks off a fire show and the Brits dive straight in. One of the women nearly sets herself on fire, which is both ridiculous and weirdly entertaining. The contrast is clear. They’re in full holiday mode. We’re in overland mode, trying to dry towels on the roof rack and cook on the tailgate. And honestly, it’s fine. It’s all part of the mix. That night, we crawl into our tent to the sound of waves. Then the sky opens up and it starts pouring. Proper tropical downpour. But we’re high and dry in our little tent. Who’s going to bother us here, eh? Let it rain. The magic of doing absolutely nothing We end up staying for days. We do a loop around the island once more, just to be sure, but it only confirms what we already felt. Koh Phangan is busy, built-up, and in some corners a little too much. So we return to Bottle Beach without hesitation. Back to our patch of paradise. This time we’re not alone. We meet Tjalle and Imme, a Dutch couple also staying at the resort. We click instantly. Imme turns out to be an incredible singer, and our evenings quickly turn into mini beach concerts around the campfire. Just us, some stars, and her voice floating over the waves. In between the singing and the sea, we discover Kratom — a local leaf you can chew for a little energy boost — and slowly work our way through the resort’s cocktail list. Days start to blur. There’s no plan, no urgency, no noise. Just the feeling of being exactly where we’re meant to be. And then, one morning, the spell breaks (but just a little). The staff gently let us know the resort owner is returning tomorrow. And she’s not quite as fond of tents in her garden as they are. Fair enough. For our final night, we move into one of the resort’s beach bungalows. Just as cozy, a bit more legal, and with the same view of the sea. Tomorrow, we catch the boat to Koh Tao. Another island, just around the corner. Diving and Kratom infused cocktails on Koh Tao We leave the 4Runner behind in the harbor at Koh Phangan, since only a passenger ferry goes to Koh Tao. Back to backpack life for a few days. As we step onto the dock in Koh Tao, we spot Tjalle and Imme right away. They caught the same ferry. Within minutes, we’ve all checked in at the same beach resort. Our squeaking wooden bungalows are lined up next to each other, and the good times are basically guaranteed. Koh Tao is tiny. You can ride a scooter from one side to the other in about fifteen minutes. It’s definitely not undiscovered, but it feels more relaxed than Koh Phangan. Less noise, more chilled-out energy. We quite like it here. We spend our days diving and snorkelling. Koh Tao is known as the dive island of Thailand, and that reputation is well-earned. We head out with a boat full of forty other divers, and under the surface it’s just as crowded. Fins everywhere, bubbles in every direction. It feels more like underwater traffic than peaceful reef exploring. Still, it’s pretty cool. We swim with baby sharks, spot turtles cruising by, and drift through coral gardens full of parrotfish and bursts of bright color. It’s busy, but beautiful. In the evenings, we hang out with Tjalle and Imme over Kratom infused cocktails. That one was our idea, and somehow it works. Imme steals the show again, singing in little beach bars where the locals immediately become fans. Her...

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Overland Journal Day 173–185: Crossing the Border & Central Thailand Road Trip

Charelle — Sun, 04 May 2025 15:27:34 +0000

Overlanding Thailand and crossing the border from Cambodia with your own car isn’t easy. But thanks to good prep, we make it through to continue our overland expedition to Singapore. We dive into Bangkok life while the 4Runner gets an upgrade, head north into monsoon rains for waterfalls and night safaris in Khao Yai National Park, and explore ancient, crowd-free temples in Ayutthaya. But after days of rain, it’s time to chase sunshine again. On to the islands! Strict rules for overlanding Thailand It might sound easy, but driving your own car into Thailand comes with a lot of rules. Since 2016, the country has regulations similar to China’s: technically, you need a guide, a local car insurance and a stack of paperwork to enter. Truth is, those border rules aren’t always as strict as they sound. Plenty of overlanders just roll up and hope for the best. We did too, back in September 2024. But since then? Things changed. A lot. Thailand tightened the rules, and for a while, most overlanders couldn’t get their vehicles in anymore. Luckily, two legends, Chris and Tim from FVP Thailand, stepped in and saved the day. They set up a super handy website that helps you arrange all the paperwork you need to enter Thailand with your foreign car or motorbike. It’s so much easier now, thanks to them. Just head to FVP Thailand to sort your Foreign Vehicle Permit and local car insurance, which you’ll both need to get your vehicle into Thailand. We come as prepared as we can to the Thai border. With help from David Goodchild of The Plodd Stop – an overland campsite in Thailand – we sort out all the required documents beforehand (as FVP Thailand didn’t exist yet). He knows the system inside out and tells us exactly which border post to try. It changes all the time, so local advice is gold. On his tip, we aim for a small countryside crossing in northwest Cambodia. Other overlanders got through here recently. Let’s hope we’re next. Crossing the border into Thailand with your own car At the Cambodian side, we’re turned around right away. A stamp is missing from our car’s import form. “Just grab it at the customs office down the road,” they say casually. Turns out “down the road” means 15 kilometers away in another village. Two hours later, stamp in hand, we try again. Step one: done. Now the real challenge begins. At the Thai side, we’re bounced between desks while officials eye us and our foreign car with suspicion. A few even try to squeeze out a “fee.” But we hold our ground. No bribes here. Eventually, they give in and start processing our paperwork the official way. One catch: copies. Lots of them. Every document needs to be duplicated multiple times. So off we go to the local supermarket, where we spend several hours battling a cranky copy machine. Three hours of bureaucratic chaos later, we’re cleared. Surprisingly, no final inspection, no gate, no security check. We’re driving our Dutch car in Thailand! It’s surreal. Thousands of kilometers from home, and somehow we’re cruising on the left side of the road past signs that say, “Caution, elephant crossing.” Hello, Thailand. Cockroaches, doctors and car workshops in Bangkok With One Night in Bangkok blasting from the speakers, we roll into Thailand’s capital. Finding a hotel takes hours. We’re looking for good reviews, metro access, and enough space for our 4×4. Eventually we spot something that sounds almost too good to be true. And well, it is. The place looks great at first, but it doesn’t take long before we notice the problem. Dozens of baby cockroaches are running around the room. We grab our stuff and get out as fast as we can. In the end, we stay a bit further from the city center. It’s not ideal, but at least there’s room for the car. The first few days in Bangkok are all about hospital visits. Luckily, a good ENT doctor quickly figures out what’s going on with Charelle’s ear. The pain finally starts to fade. At the same time, we try to arrange some maintenance for the car. That turns into a massive headache. In two days, we visit six different car workshops. Everywhere, we’re either turned away or completely misunderstood. Hardly anyone speaks English and no one wants to touch a foreign vehicle. It’s clear we’re not getting anywhere. Just as we’re about to give up, we spot a huge Ironman 4×4 shop by the road. Of course we pull over. The suspension we had fitted in Turkey was Ironman 4×4 too, so who knows what we might find here. At the very least, it could give us some fresh inspiration. Saved by Ironman 4×4 Thailand What a lucky find this turns out to be. The owner speaks fluent English, is excited about our overland trip from the Netherlands, and is happy to help with everything we want done to the car. While we’re at it, we also swap out the rear shocks and springs – at half the price we paid in Turkey and a third of what it would cost back home. Here’s what we get done: Total cost? Just €900. All in. Yep, really. You just have to drive to Thailand for it… The 4Runner’s in the shop for a few days, so we’ve got time to soak up Bangkok all over again. It’s our second visit, and honestly? This city might just be our favorite on the planet. One minute we’re sipping iced lattes in a trendy little café, the next we’re wandering barefoot through golden temples. Rooftop bars buzz after dark, while street stalls dish out steaming Pad Thai for the price of a bottled water back home. Bangkok’s got everything. We catch ourselves thinking that we could totally live here. One day, maybe. Khao Yai during monsoon season After two weeks in Bangkok and with the 4Runner back in top shape, we hit the road again. Destination: Khao Yai National Park. The only problem? It’s the middle of rainy season, and that becomes clear from the first kilometer. Buckets of rain pour from the sky as we drive north. Khao Yai turns out to be full of cheeky macaques, chilling on the road like nothing’s going on. We stop for a short hike to a wild, roaring waterfall with the ominous nickname “The Elephant Killer.” In the past, elephants were swept away by the current and plunged sixty meters down. These days, there are sturdy poles in the river to prevent that from happening. Still, the name sticks with us. Our plan to do a night safari seems doomed. The skies open up completely. No drizzle, no shower, but full-blown tropical chaos. Power outages, strong winds, thunder, lightning. But the rangers are not impressed. We’re handed ponchos and sent off into the storm in a safari car. No elephants in sight, but plenty of other wildlife. Deer, porcupines, hornbills, and foxes cross our path. Despite the weather, the jungle feels alive. We sleep in a lodge deep inside the park, surrounded by jungle sounds. When we wake up, we’re greeted by a massive family of monkeys. And no, we’re not talking about each other. Temple hopping in Ayutthaya Khao Yai marks the northernmost point of our overlanding Thailand road trip. From here, we start heading south again, with Singapore still as the final destination. Just a few hours down the road lies Ayutthaya, the former capital of Thailand. To be honest, we don’t know much about it before arriving. Temples, sure. Some ancient ruins, okay. But can anything still impress after Angkor? Turns out, yes! Across the city’s historical center, we find beautifully crumbling temple ruins. They rise up between regular buildings like reminders of a different time. Thanks to the rainy season, the streets are quiet. We stroll past weathered stone towers and calm Buddha statues, often with the place entirely to ourselves. Temple after temple surprises us. Each with its own charm. By late afternoon, the rain really starts coming down. So we take it as our cue. Enough temples for now. Time to head south, where the forecast looks a little brighter. Tropical islands are calling. The adventure isn’t over yet! Read our next journal here. Or if you want to get your vehicle into Thailand, just head over to FVP Thailand to arrange the required documentation. Follow the expedition on Instagram for real-time updates, and a lot more photos and videos!Note: Some links in this post are affiliate links.

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Overland Journal Day 159-172: Cambodia Road Trip to Phnom Penh, Koh Rong & Angkor Wat

Charelle — Thu, 24 Apr 2025 18:59:22 +0000

We leave behind what’s said to be the most corrupt border crossing in Asia and roll into Cambodia. At this point, we’ve been on the road for five months and have covered 27,000 kilometers. We dive headfirst into the comforts of city life in Phnom Penh, soak up the easygoing island vibe on Koh Rong, and – maybe the biggest milestone yet – we drive our own car straight through the gates of Angkor. But our time here comes to an unexpected end when Charelle needs medical attention. We pack up earlier than planned and head for the Bangkok Hospital as soon as possible. City comforts in Phnom Penh For less than €30 a night, we check into a four-star hotel. There’s a pool, gym, comfy bed, and a rooftop bar with a jacuzzi overlooking the Mekong. As if that’s not good enough, happy hour brings two Long Island Iced Teas for just €5. Naturally, we’re bubbling away until sunset. The contrast with Laos couldn’t be bigger. Just days ago, we were slipping through mud in the rain. Now we’re sipping cocktails in steaming water overlooking the skyline of Cambodia’s capital. Still, something feels off. Where’s the thrill? The unknown? This feels more like a holiday than an expedition. But hey, we give in. We cruise through the city in tuk-tuks, visit the Royal Palace, eat the best pizza of the entire trip, and drink cold beers in the lively Bassac Lane. Just a heads-up: in some parts of the city, bars are a front for the widespread sex industry. So choose your spot wisely. Cambodia’s darkest chapter Phnom Penh surprises us with its laid-back energy and gritty edge. It’s a mix we’ve grown to love. But beneath the buzz of the city lies a painful past. We visit two of the most confronting places in Cambodia: the former prison S-21 and the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek. Here, we get a glimpse of the horrors that unfolded during the Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970s, when Pol Pot’s leadership led to unimaginable suffering and mass genocide. The stories, the images, and the atmosphere hit hard. It’s difficult to fully comprehend the scale of the pain and loss. These places are tough to visit, but they matter. They remind us how much strength and resilience people are capable of. Even after living through the unthinkable. Tropical timeout on Koh Rong Our partner Bookaway sorted out minivan and ferry tickets to the tropical island of Koh Rong for us. And of course, we weren’t about to say no. So, for the first time in months, we leave our trusty 4Runner behind and squeeze into a minivan like true backpackers. A few hours later, a speedboat cuts across turquoise waters and there it is: white beaches, clear sea, waving palm trees, and a dreamy resort less than twenty steps from the water. Overlanding? Never heard of that. We stay for five days. Jogging on the beach, scooter rides through the jungle, cocktails under the stars, blog updates from a shady terrace, and long lazy swims. Not bad at all. But the expedition won’t continue on its own. So after some lazy days, we head back to Phnom Penh, reunite with our 4Runner, and shift gears northward. Angkor, here we come. Driving through the gates of Angkor The alarm goes off at 4 a.m. Yep, that’s what it takes if you want to catch the sunrise at Angkor Wat. We found our guide through TikTok: Lao, a laid-back local with hundreds of thousands of followers and a serious love for Angkor. Just our kind of guy. Turns out, it’s also his first time guiding someone through the complex in their own car. It doesn’t fully hit us at first, but we just drove to Angkor Wat. Absolutely wild. Nothing Lao tells us, and nothing we’ve read, prepares us for what we see. Just before sunrise, we park and walk through the quiet alleys of closed-up shops and cafés. Then, there it is: Angkor Wat. Bathed in soft pink morning light, its stone towers rise up like something from another world. We wander through the complex for hours. Every corner, every carving, every stone has a story to tell. But Angkor isn’t just Angkor Wat. The entire complex covers more than 400 square kilometers and is packed with temples. Luckily, you can drive from one temple to the next. Our second stop: Ta Prohm. You might know it as the Tomb Raider temple. Here, the jungle has taken over. Enormous Ficus trees wrap themselves around the ruins, their roots holding up the walls as if the temple and the forest have grown into one. They’re completely dependent on each other now, one can’t survive without the other. We finish the day at the Bayon Temple, built by King Jayavarman VII. His goal? To outdo Angkor Wat. Ambitious for sure. And it’s impressive too. Dozens of stone faces gaze down from the towers, and the carvings in the walls are unbelievably detailed. But does it surpass Angkor Wat? Not for us. Only when we drive back we realize how special this day has been. For seven hours we wandered through ancient temples, listened to stories of powerful kings, and watched the jungle slowly take over what was once a mighty city. Angkor lived up to every expectation, and more. It’s one of the most famous places in the world for a reason. But you only really get it when you’re standing there, surrounded by it all. For us, without question, the highlight of Cambodia. Unexpected ending to our Cambodia road trip Charelle’s been having ear trouble since our last days in Laos. At first, it was just a dull ache, but it’s slowly getting worse. In Phnom Penh, a slightly scatterbrained British doctor takes a look. In Siem Reap, two more doctors try to help at a local clinic. Still, no improvement unfortunately. Just more pain. They poke and prod, but it leads nowhere. Her ear gets irritated, inflamed, and increasingly painful. We’re done taking chances. After reading too many horror stories about Cambodia’s healthcare system, we decide to head for Thailand. Bangkok Hospital has a great reputation and is known as one of the best in Southeast Asia. We managed to book an appointment with an ENT specialist, and it’s set for two days later. Better start driving towards Bangkok as soon as possible. “Angkor lived up to every expectation, and more. It’s one of the most famous places in the world for a reason. But you only really get it when you’re standing there.“ Ready for the road again Cambodia gave us room to slow down. To swap muddy roads for soft beds, and cold showers for rooftop jacuzzis. And sure, that’s pretty great. But it comes with a price, literally. Our daily budget here nearly doubled, even though Cambodia isn’t exactly expensive. We’ve enjoyed the comfort. But we’re also kind of done with it. We’re not on this expedition to hang out in four-star hotels. We’re here for the adventure. And that’s something you won’t find in a cocktail glass. In that sense, Cambodia gave us exactly what we needed. A breather, and a fresh dose of energy. We’re ready for the next leg. Thailand, here we come. Only 3 more countries to go. The adventure isn’t over yet! Read our next journal here. Note: If you want to get your own vehicle into Thailand, just head over to FVP Thailand to arrange the required documentation. Follow the expedition on Instagram for real-time updates, and a lot more photos and videos!Note: Some links in this post are affiliate links.

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Holiday to Kyrgyzstan: The Ultimate 3-Week Road Trip Itinerary (+Wild Camping & Off-Roading Tips)

Charelle — Wed, 16 Apr 2025 18:26:04 +0000

Planning a holiday to Kyrgyzstan? This breathtaking Central Asian country quickly became our all-time favorite, and for good reason. Towering mountain ranges, vast valleys, and rugged off-road trails make Kyrgyzstan the perfect destination for an adventurous road trip. We’ve explored Kyrgyzstan twice now: once by flying in and renting a 4×4 with rooftop tent, and once by driving all the way from The Netherlands in our own Toyota 4Runner. After covering almost every corner of the country, we’ve crafted what we believe is the ultimate 3-week itinerary for a road trip through Kyrgyzstan. Looking for a shorter adventure? Don’t miss our 2-week Kyrgyzstan itinerary for a slightly faster-paced journey. Why spend 3 weeks on a holiday to Kyrgyzstan? One of the first things to figure out when planning your holiday to Kyrgyzstan is how much time you’ll have. The length of your trip obviously makes a big difference in what you can realistically see and do. On our first visit in 2023, we gave ourselves two weeks. We weren’t sure what to expect and figured that would be enough. Spoiler: it wasn’t. After two weeks, we didn’t want to leave at all. In fact, we were so blown away by the landscapes, culture, and freedom of exploring Kyrgyzstan by car, that we returned home and bought our own 4×4 to drive there ourselves (and further). A year later, we made that dream come true. In 2024, we spent another two weeks in Kyrgyzstan and explored areas we hadn’t reached the first time around. There were still plenty of things to see and do left. That’s why we recommend giving yourself at least three weeks. You’ll want the extra time to truly experience what this country has to offer without rushing. Driving around Kyrgyzstan on your own We’ll be honest. Heading out on our own in Kyrgyzstan for the first time felt pretty intense. The landscapes are remote, the roads rugged, and there are stretches where you might not see another soul for days. Add to that our lack of serious off-road experience, and it was definitely a leap into the unknown. But the adventure promised was just too good to pass up. And looking back, we can only say: absolutely go for it. That said, a bit of preparation goes a long way if you want to go on holiday to Kyrgyzstan. If you’re venturing into the more remote regions, take it slow, don’t take unnecessary risks, always check the weather forecast, and pack enough food and water. Renting or bringing a satellite phone or SOS device is a smart move, and basic off-road experience definitely helps. But most of all, confidence behind the wheel matters more than perfection. One thing we can’t stress enough: bring an SOS device. We didn’t on our first trip, and it nearly cost us. We got stuck in a swamp at 4500 meters without signal or help in sight. It took two days before we were rescued, and it could’ve ended very differently. With an SOS device, we would’ve had help on the way within minutes. These days we always travel with the Garmin InReach Messenger. It’s compact, affordable, and gives you peace of mind by keeping you connected, even when you’re completely off the grid. Highly recommended if you’re planning a self-driving holiday to Kyrgyzstan. Renting a 4×4 car for your holiday to Kyrgyzstan Let’s talk wheels, because choosing the right rental car for your Kyrgyzstan road trip is key. For us, it’s simple: if you’re planning to see the most beautiful and remote places in the country, you need a 4×4. No debate. We rented our vehicle from Nick in Bishkek for our holiday to Kyrgyzstan and can wholeheartedly recommend him. He offers sturdy Toyota Sequoias with rooftop tents and all the camping gear you need. You can send him a message on this website. He’s usually fully booked in summer, so be quick! If he’s out of availability, you’ll also find a few other trusted rental companies listed on the same site. Planning to visit places like Lake Köl-Suu or other areas near the borders? Then don’t forget your border permit. It’s required for many regions and you’ll be asked to show it at military checkpoints. You can easily apply for one here. Want to know more about what to expect—how the roads are, what facilities are like, and what you really need to pack? Check out our guide: Traveling to Kyrgyzstan: Everything You Need to Know Before You Go. Holiday to Kyrgyzstan guide & essential apps Our itinerary is largely inspired by the incredible off-road routes from the travel guide created by Olivia and Victor, the duo behind Ountravela. They spent years exploring Kyrgyzstan in their 4×4, mapping out the most epic trails the country has to offer. We were lucky enough to meet them on the road and have now driven most of their routes ourselves. Without a doubt, these drives were the absolute highlights of our holiday to Kyrgyzstan. And that says a lot. If you’re planning to go on a holiday to Kyrgyzstan by car and crave adventure, their guide is a must-have. You can order it here. Bonus tip: Ditch Google Maps and use Yandex for navigation. Yandex is far more accurate when it comes to roads in Kyrgyzstan. Google often sends you the wrong way. For off-road tracks, we recommend Maps.me, which also works well offline. And if you’re into wild camping, check iOverlander or the wild camp suggestions from the Ountravela guide. Both are packed with valuable info that’ll take your trip to the next level. The ultimate 3-week itinerary for your holiday to Kyrgyzstan Below you’ll find our carefully crafted itinerary with what we believe are the most breathtaking places in Kyrgyzstan. This route is designed specifically for a 3-week holiday to Kyrgyzstan, but even then, you can’t see everything this country has to offer. Some highlights like Jyrgalan, Engilchek, and Altyn Arashan didn’t make the cut. But we made those choices with care, and as far as we’re concerned, this is the best possible route for a 3-week tour. “Embrace the freedom of the open road, roll with whatever comes your way, pitch your tent wherever you land, and enjoy every minute of it.“ That said, Kyrgyzstan isn’t the kind of place you plan down to the minute. Don’t try to fix your whole schedule in advance. Pick out a few must-sees, but leave room for detours, surprises, and spontaneous moments. Because if there’s one thing you can count on in Kyrgyzstan, it’s that nothing goes exactly according to plan. And that’s exactly what makes it so special. Embrace the freedom of the open road, roll with whatever comes your way, pitch your tent wherever you land, and enjoy every minute of it. Day 1: Start of your holiday to Kyrgyzstan – City tripping Bishkek Distance: 0 km Welcome to Bishkek, the starting point of your Kyrgyzstan road trip. Here, Lenin and Marx still stand on their pedestals, watching over a city where Soviet charm meets modern energy. You’ll find a curious mix of grand, gray architecture, leafy boulevards, buzzing bazaars, and laid-back parks. Start your day at Ala-Too Square, Victory Square, and the State History Museum to get a feel for the city’s Soviet past. Looking to relax? Head to Oak Park or Panfilov Park for a shady break. Need to stock up? The chaotic but fascinating Osh Bazaar is your go-to spot. You’ll find everything you need for your road trip through Kyrgyzstan. Bishkek has become surprisingly trendy in recent years. Think cozy cafés, stylish guesthouses, and great food spots. Grab a coffee at Sierra Coffee (our favorite coffee place), treat yourself to a good meal, and get ready for the journey of a lifetime. The adventure begins tomorrow. Day 2: Konorchek Canyon Distance: approx. 150 km (4-hour drive) This is where your holiday to Kyrgyzstan truly kicks off. Pick up your 4×4 in Bishkek and hit the road. If you’ve rented your car from Nick, there’s a good chance you stayed at his place the night before. One of the perks of booking early. Make sure to check availability with him—just send him a message on this website. As you leave the city, you’ll pass the Burana Tower. It’s a well-known historical site, but unless you’re a history enthusiast, we’d say skip it. The real adventure lies just ahead. Follow route 4 from Ountravela’s travel guide and head toward Konorchek Canyon. This off-road drive is next-level. Think bright red rock formations, panoramic views, and a winding trail that makes you feel like you’re the only one out there. Set up camp somewhere with sweeping views of the valleys and distant snow-capped peaks. Hike through the canyon, cook a simple meal on your stove, and fall asleep under a sky full of stars. If you’re lucky, you’ll wake up to wild horses grazing near your tent. Konorchek is everything a road trip in Kyrgyzstan should be. And it’s only your first night. Day 3: Issyk Kul & The Forgotten Rivers Distance: approx. 200 km (4-hour drive) Waking up to the silence and sunrise at Konorchek Canyon is something special. If you didn’t explore the canyon the day before, take a morning hike through its winding paths and towering red walls. Next up: make your way toward Issyk Kul, the second-largest mountain lake in the world. If you’re in the mood for a bit more adventure, detour via The Forgotten Rivers route (#5) from the Ountravela guide. This lesser-known off-road track takes you along the southern shores of Issyk Kul, through dramatic canyons and wide sandy stretches that were once riverbeds. For the night, we recommend staying at Bel-Tam Yurt Camp. Sure, it’s a bit touristy, but that just means you get cozy beds, hot showers, and good food. Luxuries you’ll start to appreciate quickly on a road trip through Kyrgyzstan. It’s the perfect place to recharge: do your laundry, sip a cold beer, enjoy their fresh coffee and share travel stories around the fire. After a night in the wild, Bel-Tam feels like a mini oasis. Day 4: Skazka / Fairytale Canyon & Barskoon Waterfalls Distance: approx. 70 km (1.5-hour drive) Just half an hour from Bel-Tam lies Skazka Canyon, also known as the Fairytale Canyon. It’s a colorful, picture-perfect stop with unique rock formations. Worth a short visit if you’re passing by. For us, Konorchek Canyon still takes the crown, but since Skazka is right off the main road, it’s an easy detour. Continue your drive along the southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul to Barskoon, a small village at the foot of the mountains. Stock up on supplies here; you’ll be heading into remote areas for the next few days. In the afternoon, stretch your legs with a forest hike to some of the Barskoon Waterfalls. It’s a peaceful spot, and a great way to end the day. Try to find a camp spot nearby, so you can hit the mountain roads early the next morning. Day 5: Kumtor Gold Mine & Kara Say Distance: approx. 160 km (6-hour drive) From Barskoon, the main road fades behind you as you head deep into the wild Tian Shan mountains. This is a truly spectacular part of Kyrgyzstan. Stock up on supplies for the next few days, bring an SOS device, and prepare for one of the most remote stretches of your trip. Follow route 7 from the Ountravela guide past the Kumtor gold mine, one of the highest mines in the world, and continue toward the tiny hamlet of Kara Say. Here, you can wild camp on high-altitude tundra beneath a blanket of stars. Completely alone at 4500 meters altitude. Just a word of caution: don’t pitch your tent too close to the river. We got stuck in the mud here, and it wasn’t pretty. Camp on higher ground, and always carry a satellite phone or SOS Device like the Garmin InReach Messenger for safety. Day 6–7: Kara Say...

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Overland Journal Day 143-158: Laos Road Trip

Charelle — Sun, 09 Feb 2025 19:10:48 +0000

After 143 days and 24.000 kilometers, we drive into Southeast Asia—marking the final chapter of our overland expedition. It’s time for a road trip through Laos. The transition is striking after China’s fast pace. Life here is slower, the roads are rougher, and tourists suddenly seem to be everywhere. Yet, Laos also feels familiar. We traveled here as backpackers seven years ago and recognize the emerald rice terraces, misty mountains, colonial towns, and dense jungle. But the torrential rain makes wild camping impossible, and among the backpackers, we feel a bit out of place. Maybe, for the first time on this journey, the fatigue of traveling is creeping in? Still, we’re not about to slow down. We have a goal, and we’re going to reach it! From The Netherlands to Southeast Asia by car After 143 days and 24.000 kilometers, we finally reach Southeast Asia. Crossing the border is easy—no complicated procedures like in China. A visa on arrival, a few stamps, and we’re in. It still feels surreal. For years, we took flights to this part of the world for vacations. And now we DROVE here. Let’s get it on with a Laos road trip. We’ll drive from north to south, heading to the border with Cambodia. As we cross the border from China into Laos, our convoy erupts in cheers with high-fives all around. Who would have thought we’d make it this far? And so quickly, as well. In just five months, we’ve covered over two-thirds of the total distance. It’s amazing how much you can achieve when you give it your all. Laos forces us to slow down. Life moves at a different pace here. The smooth Chinese highways are gone, replaced by cracked asphalt full of potholes—or worse, endless stretches of deep mud. And then there’s the rain. It just never stops. The infrastructure struggles to cope: dirt roads flood in minutes, landslides block the way, and power outages are constant. Everything is covered in mud: people, roads, cars, houses. There’s no escaping it. Laos road trip: driving through the mud We push through the muddy, broken roads of northern Laos. Bamboo huts on stilts flash by, and curious eyes follow us. Locals must be wondering what this grey Toyota with Dutch license plates—and two foreigners inside—is doing here. Honestly? We wonder the same. Are we chasing adventure? Are we really on our way to Singapore? Here, deep in the jungle, in the pouring rain and knee-deep mud, that goal feels more distant than ever. Even though we’ve never been this close. But the views along the way make up for everything. The endless rain turns the rice terraces into a glowing green landscape. Mountains hide behind low hanging clouds, giving everything a mystical feel. And every now and then, a decorated, golden temple or a group of monks in orange robes appear, like something out of a dream. Charelle takes the wheel and tackles the thick, sticky mud for the first time. She quickly realizes how slippery it is, with the car sliding left and right and suffering from a lot of oversteer. Marcel watches nervously, itching to take over. But Charelle knows by now: there’s only one way to learn. So she keeps going, slowly but determined. No crashes, no getting stuck. Though a little more practice wouldn’t hurt. Travel fatigue and homesickness The first days in Southeast Asia feel like a sudden shift. In Central Asia, we had total freedom. Pitching our tent anywhere, camping under the stars. Here, the rain is relentless, the heat is stifling, and the humidity makes every move sticky and exhausting. Wild camping? Not exactly appealing. In China, we covered hundreds of kilometers a day, racing from one world-famous sight to the next. Now, in Laos, progress is slow. After weeks of moving at full speed, it feels like we’ve hit the brakes. For the first time on this journey, homesickness creeps in. We think more and more about life back home and catch ourselves wondering—what are we actually doing? Maybe we’re just feeling worn out? Still, quitting isn’t an option. Singapore is the goal, and we’re not about to stop now. To recharge, we spend a few days in the Namkat Yorla Pa Resort, surrounded by bright green rice terraces. It’s low season, so luxury is surprisingly affordable. Our wooden bungalow hangs over a rushing river, hidden deep in the jungle. Rain taps softly on the roof as we get lost in books. We discover that swimming in the rain is oddly refreshing, lift weights in a jungle gym, and indulge in Laotian massages. And of course, we toast with cocktails and feast on lavish dinners. A little reset never hurts. Time to get back on the road. “The smooth Chinese highways are gone, replaced by cracked asphalt full of potholes—or worse, endless stretches of deep mud. And then there’s the rain. It never stops.” Dancing in the rain We no longer have visa deadlines hanging over us, yet we still feel an inexplicable urge to keep moving. Maybe we think a change of scenery will lift our mood? Or perhaps we’ve gotten so used to fast travel that we’re just pushing ahead without thinking? Whatever the reason, we cover a lot of ground heading south. Along the way, we pass familiar places we visited 7 years ago as backpackers: Nong Khiaw and Luang Prabang. But this time we’re behind the wheel of our own car! The roads improve as we go, and we see more and more tourists. Wide-eyed backpackers stare at our Dutch license plate, clearly wondering how on earth we got here. We can’t help but laugh at their puzzled looks. And we’re just as surprised to see them. After all, we haven’t seen another Westerner for weeks. It feels like we’ve entered a completely different world. And eventually… we even get used to the rain. When a monsoon hits as we walk back to our hotel, we don’t even bother running. Instead, we play the song La Vie Est Belle by Diggy Dex, grab each other’s hands, and dance through the downpour. La vie really can be belle, even when it never stops raining. Psychedelics in backpacker paradise Vang Vieng Halfway between Luang Prabang and Vientiane lies Vang Vieng, a village once infamous for its wild parties and drug scene. Curiosity gets the better of us, so we decide to spend the night and see what’s left of it now. In the evening, we head to Jaidee’s Bar, where a “special menu” circulates alongside the regular one. Happy Shakes, LSD, funky balls, ketamine… plenty of choice. Most backpackers in the bar dive right in. Before we know it, people are upside down on tables, completely out of this world. We have a great time in our corner, sipping on a beer and watching the spectacle unfold. How did we end up here? A few weeks later, we hear that several backpackers have died in the village from alcohol poisoning. The news hits hard, especially knowing we were just there. One night in this crazy place is more than enough for us. The next day, we continue to the Vientiane. French bakeries line the streets, and a Lao version of the Arc de Triomphe towers over the city. It’s amusing, but otherwise, not much happens in this sleepy capital. So we don’t linger long before moving on again. Kong Lor Cave, the highlight of Laos It’s one of those moments when our Lonely Planet flips open to the right page. Kong Lor Cave—one of the longest navigable river cave systems in the world—stares back at us. We don’t know much about it, but that’s the beauty of it. We’re in. By 8 a.m., we’re standing at the cave’s entrace, a narrow wooden boat bobbing gently in the water. We’re the first ones here. Our guide gives a quiet nod, fires up the engine, and just like that, we glide into total darkness. Even our headlamps seem to fade into nothing. It’s just the soft slap of water against the boat and the low hum of the engine echoing off the walls. For seven kilometers, we make our way through the black, the air cool and heavy, until a sliver of light breaks through. We emerge into a jungle-lined river, the world suddenly alive again. Kong Lor Cave turns out to be our highlight of the country. “Wide-eyed backpackers stare at our Dutch license plate, clearly wondering how on earth we got here. We can’t help but laugh at their puzzled looks.” Riding the Thakhek Loop on a motorbike The Kong Lor Cave is part of the Thakhek Loop, a multiday 500-kilometer motorbike route that winds through Laos’ wild heart. Marcel doesn’t think twice—he’s on a Yamaha dirt bike before Charelle can even blink. Charelle sticks with our trusty Toyota 4Runner. If the bike can handle it, so can our car. And just like that, we’re a two-person convoy, rolling through rice paddies and limestone karsts like true overlanders. The landscape is breathtaking, but it’s not without its ghosts. Over the past 15 years, dams have reshaped this place, flooding villages and forests to create a sprawling reservoir. Now, skeletal treetops claw at the sky, their roots drowned below. That evening, we rent a boat and drift across the still water, beers in hand. The captain points to where villages once stood. As the sun dips low, we dive into the cool water, swimming among the ghostly trees. It’s beautiful and eerie at the same time. Laos to Cambodia: Asia’s Most Corrupt Border After just 2.5 weeks in Laos, we set our sights on Cambodia. Somehow Laos doesn’t hit the same way it did seven years ago, but we know that’s more because of our state of mind than the place itself. There’s just one catch: we have no idea if we can cross the border into Cambodia with our car. Online info is scarce, except for one thing: this border is infamous for being the most corrupt in Asia. The Laotian side wastes no time living up to its reputation. Customs officers demand money just to stamp our passports. We hold our ground and refuse to pay, which slows things down but feels worth it. On the Cambodian side, everything changes. The staff are friendly and guide us through the paperwork. A few hours later, we’ve got our visas and the car’s temporary import sorted. We’re officially in! Soon we’ll be driving our own car to the iconic Angkor Wat temple. Wow, not many people from back home can say that they’ve done that. Experiences of a lifetime In just a few months, we’ve gathered experiences that would usually take a lifetime. It’s an incredible feeling, though at times a little overwhelming. The non-stop surprises and thrills we had before Laos, seem to have slowed down here. We catch ourselves reminiscing: “Remember that time in Kyrgyzstan? Or in China?” After a few days, we realize that dwelling on the past isn’t helping us. Sure, this area is more touristy and less adventurous. And yes, with the rain, heat, and humidity, wild camping is often off the table. But it’s not about longing for the good times we’ve already had. It’s about being deeply grateful for those moments—and embracing everything Southeast Asia has to offer right now. The adventure isn’t over yet! Read our next journal here. Note: Heading to Thailand next? If you want to get your own vehicle into Thailand, just head over to FVP Thailand to arrange the required documentation (including the Foreign Vehicle Permit). Follow the expedition on Instagram for real-time updates, and a lot more photos and videos!Note: Some links in this post are affiliate links.

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